freddy333

I saw these listings a few days ago. Their dial is pretty much useless unless you want to chance a professional redial (sometimes the repaint is a spitting image of the original & sometimes it is a spitting image of a poor aftermarket). Assuming it is 100% real/correct (not missing any of the oem components), if you can get the movement for less than 2k, you are doing well. I am still of 2 minds about these parted-out watches. On the 1 hand, this is often the only way for types like us (non-uber-wealthy) to assemble these rare vintage Rolex models . But, on the other hand, I also consider it sacrilegious to slash the herd just to squeeze out a bit more profit.

Too bad they got the dots wrong (should be tiny squares).

It could be a reaction to the current economic conditions (which are generally improving). Instead of trying to increase sales, some vendors try to make up for lost profits by simply raising prices. This seems like the last thing you should do when money is tight, but it never ceases to amaze me how many companies (who should know better) do that.

Were it me, I would go with a DW caseset (to supplement whatever gen parts you are lacking) & gen bracelet. There is a huge number of threads devoted to DW Daytona projects that I would encourage you to search out, as well as researching the gen you are interested in.

I assume you mean the 50-year old version & not the current model. No, but the thing is so huge & hideously ugly that I felt no remorse in leaving the store without a try-on. However, I did try on the white gold Daytona again (the steel Daytona, according to the store, continues to be in very limited supply), which is still a looker & it may have provided the inspiration I need to finally get around to correcting the lume problems on my rep's dial

As a matter of fact, yes.........

Oops. You are correct. Metres, not feet. Still, Patek states -

From my Patek catalog - the depth rating on the Nautilus is 60'-120', depending on the particular version. I think that pretty much answers the question.

I wish I had taken my camera. They even took the Deepsea out of its case to allow people to take pics & people were taking ALOT of pics. The event was nicely catered with constantly flowing champagne for whoever stops in. Oddly, there were more Rolex company & media people there than the general public (I was 1 of only a handful of people not connected to the event when I was there around noon). If you go, also check out the 3 cars on display on the lower level of the mall (a black Maserati, yellow Lamborghini & white Ferrari).

Ditto.

Rolex is sponsoring the 50th anniversary of the original Deep Sea watch at Liljenquist jewelers. From the invite - 'Meet U.S. Navy Captain Don Walsh, who piloted the historic bathyscaphe to 35,180 feet. See the Rolex Deepsea Special, never before seen by the public.' Hurry, the event ends at 2pm today.

Another day with Mystery

Now that it is getting stiff, as long as you stop winding it (even for testing purposes) & have the watch serviced (cleaned, oiled, regulated), you should be fine. But get it serviced.

Nice, but they need to stop using that yellow lume.

1665 handset can be had for $200-$350, dial would be $500+ depending on condition and version.

Well done.

That day again

Wearing my non-Daytona Daytona today

Contrary to your finding, the most likely cause of this is a loose hand wand (the pivot between the wand & tube is loose), which leaves the hand in different locations on the dial each time you reset it. The fixes are to remove & tighten the pivot with a staking tool (I assume you do not have this), to cement the pivot joint with epoxy or whatever or replace the hand. (Original pic courtesy of Avitt)

You will probably need to ask the seller what size his crown is, but the gen 6536 has a 6mm Twinlock or Brevet (6538 is 8mm) & that is what I used for my 6536-1

Yes &, believe it or not, I have a minty Panasonic 8-track recorder to play them back on (though it has only been used twice since new).

Bond-ish today

Yes & no. The Silix 'Tiffany' Sub case I used for my Phase 1 6542 was ETA 2836-powered & was signed '6542' between 1 set of lugs (the other set had Sub markings). But I am not aware of anyone selling an assembled, ETA-powered 6542 rep or aftermarket case made to fit an ETA (aftermarket cases tend to be made for gen movements). At the time I began work on my 6542, there were no 6542 cases available - they began to appear, oddly enough, shortly after I completed my Phase 1 6542 project. Today, it is much easier to build a 6542 since a number of aftermarket parts sellers now offer case kits. Makes construction alot easier.

My current aftermarket insert (shown on my Phase 1 watch at right in the 1st pic) also has raised numbers, but the placement of the dots is off & it lacks the flat-top 4 of the gen & new insert. The insert NDT is selling was 1st available through Andy & I placed an order over a month ago (in tandem with a gen insert that arrived in a totally unusable state (in many broken pieces & some powder), which was returned to the seller). Unfortunately, my order fell through some cracks, but is supposedly now en route to me. I can provide more details once I have it in-hand. However, I do know that these inserts are made to fit the gen 6542 bezel, so they should fit any aftermarket bezel that is made to the gen spec. I have a gen bezel, so fitment is not a problem, but you should check with the seller if you are trying to fit this (or any other aftermarket insert) into an aftermarket bezel