freddy333

I wore this out to a late dinner Friday night & am still wearing it early Saturday morning

Like all mechanicals, once properly overhauled, they keep good time for 5-7 years until the next required service interval.

I like the V72s more than the 7750s, but I wear the 7750s (including the 6239 pre-Daytona not pictured) far more often.

No, but unless you have your watch professionally pressure-tested, I would NOT take it in water.

If you have a gen dial/handset, why are they not installed? And, once installed, why in the world would you ever consider selling it? I mean, the only thing better than a nearly gen PN is an all-gen PN ........& what you have (with the gen dial/handset) would be more than close enough to my way of thinking. How could you possibly trade up from that? What are you trading it for? A Patek 3974? That is about the only place to go when you reach this level.

Were it me, I would hang onto it & look/wait for a better dial, subdial hands (they look weird) & insert (the insert appears to be damaged around 3 o'clock). Possibly, also replace the crystal with a new beveled T21. The movement looks beautiful (hopefully, its internal condition matches its outward appearance). Why are you considering selling it?

Ending the work week wearing my Sub

I agree with Alligoat. Select a dial & then have Kent relume it. Just make absolutely sure that Kent understands that you want the lume to be white (& non-glowing - 40+ year old tritium dials rarely have any glow left in them).

I have not seen anyone selling 6542 dials made for ETA movements. I had an ETA dial blank custom printed with a 6542 dial face by MY. Neither of those dials will fit an ETA because they are made to friction-fit onto a Rolex 1030, which differs from the ETA. The perimeter of the dial is bent downward at a right angle with the dial face. This flange then friction-fits around the edge of the pillar plate, which is what holds the dial onto the movement I suppose you could grind the flange off so the dial plate is flat & then cement it onto the movement, but you risk damaging the face.

DW's cases (with engraved numbering between the lugs) are as close to 1:1 copies as I have seen & they are generally cheaper than the other options mentioned. All of the asymmetrical pushered 62xxs in this pic are DWs

The Ofrei pushers usually fit the threading made by the smaller of the 2 Rolex taps (I have received a couple of DW cases that had pusher holes that were too large for the standard pushers, including the pushers that came with the case - in those cases, you need to either get a larger diameter pusher or cement the pusher into the existing hole). However, because of the variability of rep cases (including DW's), you will not know whether you need to retap until you check your particular case. Some of mine required tapping, while others did not. I use this pusher tool for all of my Daytonas Ofrei part MSA03.655

1970 1680 Crystal - 127 7mm Crown - 24-700 (Rolex currently fits 24-703 or 24-704 during service) Movement - 1575 Bracelet/end link combos - 9315/280 or 9315/380 (Rolex currently fits 93150/580)

1680/5513, yes, DRSD, no (that would get the current 704 (dots slightly separated from the coronet)).

Based on the pics (which are not great, so no guarantees), all look gen. But it also looks like the inner tube/spring assembly in some may be problematic.

I went Mystery today

Thanks d. But if you like that 1, wait until you see the (mostly gen) Phase II. Here is a preview (Donor movement prior to overhaul & conversion) (Completed Phase 1 at right)

Wearing 1 of my GMTs today

Do not be fooled by a pretty face. I would also factor in the cost of a complete overhaul upon receipt of your J&W watch (most of these 'factory made' frankens are pieced together in very un-professional ways & the condition of the movement is often worse than what you get in the average rep ).

Short of remanufacturing the entire movement, I am not aware of any way to change the subdial positioning.

Yuki promised to fix the end link/springbar issue when the factory makes the next batch, but that would not happen until the current batch had sold out. No idea whether that has happened yet. The last bracelet I received had (cheap/aftermarket) 2mm springbars forced into the end links. While this allows you to fit the bracelet to your watch (until the springbar's inner spring collapses - typically, within days), it was/is not a proper fix.

It is a great reference book, but that 1 is a bit out-of-date (probably why it is so cheap). I have all the issues from 2001 through 2009 & awaiting 2010. Though, at this point, since each issue covers alot of the same models, it is mostly useful to gauge price trends over time.

Unless I am missing something, why would you want to purposely turn a good lens into a bad lens? A discolored lens, in my opinion, does not lend a rep any credibility, it just makes it difficult to read the dial & indicates that it is time for a xtal replacement.

For the record, these 'Shit.....' cases have been around for at least 15 years & have been sold by many sellers (not just MBW). Many years ago (before the web), I bought a Sub that contained this nomenclature & returned it to the seller because his pics showed the watch with correct lettering.