freddy333

The crown in the top right (if that is the 1 you both are referring to) looks like it may be a 7mm Triplock (similar in size/shape to the separate, righter-most crown just below it).

Be careful, because there are at least 3 different case/bezel designs (relating to the way the bezel is affixed to the case) &, in my experience, mix-&-match options are limited (& ruled more by luck than design).

I went through a similar dilemma a couple of years ago (which dial color). In the end, the consensus was to pair the black dial with the black bezel (6241) & the white dial with the steel bezel (6239). Due to the PN's fame/rarity/value, neither sees alot of wrist time (before anyone PMs me, I am not selling them), but, between the 2, I probably wear the 6241 more than the 6239 only because it is a bit less eye-catching.

Yes

Technically, Brevet crowns go with Brevet signed (between the lugs) cases & standard Twinlocks (single line below the crown for ss) were fitted on the rest. The initial runs usually got Brevets & later runs got Twinlocks. But since only you will see between the lugs, either is fine. I used a Brevet for my 6536 (as well as my 6542 & gold Newman 6239).

Not really. Still awaiting the non-Oyster pushers from DW & the watch continues to run trouble-free.

Wearing a GMT today

Ditto. I guess you cannot believe everything you read.

Same old, boring ticker again today

I agree, they should be a bit smaller. But they are within the range of acceptable for a vintage piece, so I would not worry about them.

Well done (as usual), Ubi. In general, unless there is some glaring mistake, I think most of the better rep Subs have decent looking inserts. The salient detail on the vintage gens are their slightly serifed fonts, which aftermarket inserts can only approximate (at best).

Ditto & I do not even like NATO straps (except on this watch).

Fitting a new stem generally requires only a pair of wire cutters (nippers), possibly a file (if you booger up the cut, leaving sharp bits sticking out sideways making it difficult to screw the crown onto the stem) & takes 10 or so minutes. As Alligoat said, it requires some trial-&-error, which is pretty much unavoidable because you have to cut the stem to fit your particular case & crown. So put everything together, check all the setting functions & see how far it is from being able to screw down (fully) onto the tube. Most likely, being a new stem, it will need to be cut shorter in order to be able to get the crown to fit all the way down over the tube. So, remove the stem & unscrew the crown from the stem. Cut the stem a small bit, reassemble & retry. If it is still too long, disassemble & cut again. Continue the process until you get the correct fit. Be careful not to become impatient & cut too much or you will end up back here posting a 'I cut my stem too short, now what do I do?' (you buy another & be more careful next time ).

Pray tell, oh stacked 1

Ending the work week wearing my JlC

Based on the relatively small, unclear pics provided by the seller, it is impossible to say whether the dial is gen or not. But, from what I can see (not to mention the seller's overall murky presentation), there is nothing about the dial that strikes me as anything other than aftermarket.

Ditto.

I would start by getting a scan of the address label on the package (or in UPS's system) to be sure the sender got it right (I cannot tell you how many times a shipper will place an incomplete or incorrect address on a package, which results in its being delivered to the wrong address).

I think that just about sums it all up. Considering the (high) level Ubi & Co have already achieved, I would would consider having Ziggy or Ken relume the dial/hands (in white or slightly off white) & installing a gen movement & bezel/insert/pearl.

This is not limited to a specific person (I often hear similar comments about other objects from others), but I think you may be onto something there.

Good comparison with these 2, but, for the life of me, I cannot put my finger onto exactly what it is about the Alfa that makes it sexy, while the Ferrari, which is 1 of my favorite cars, is not. Similarly, I once bought a car, primarily, because 2 different women, whose opinions I trust, told me the car (only in a particular color) was sexy, while all of the other cars I cited lacked that essential missing (sexy) ingredient. I often hear the same comment ('sexy') from women with regards to my Mystery DJ, even though I have a gaggle of other watches that I think are cooler or rarer or thinner or thicker or swoopier or more algular or more esoteric or more/less blingy. Why is this watch (the watch, not the picture) sexy & this is not Weird.

I was just having a conversation with a friend about a particular car that she described as being very 'sexy'. She explained that sexy is different than cool or pretty. But when I asked her to qualify what it was about the car that makes it sexy, she was completely unable to describe anything tangible. So, I began to wonder -- in a broader context -- what makes an object (excluding the human body) sexy? What makes a watch sexy as opposed to cool or pretty or whatever other positive adjective 1 might attribute to an inanimate object?

Check with the collectors listed on RWG or try ebay.

I cannot point you to anyone local, but you check your local phone book or search google. Many reps contain ETA movements, which any pro watchsmith can work on. However, it would be wise to phone the shop & ask if they are willing to work in a replica watch (many will).