freddy333

No, just add a bit of enhanced patination so you are not walking around wearing a vintage watch that looks factory fresh. I agree with JoJo (big surprise). Get the Yuki. Timezone or vintage rolex forum (vrf). But I would not rule out ebay (as long as you always remember to buy (check out) the seller before you buy the watch). Yuki's, like most aftermarket cases, are made to fit gen movements. If you want to install an ETA (I would try to find a 'slow beat' ETA 2846 since the beat is closer to that of the Rolex 157x), you will need 1 of Stilty's spacers.

I use GC crystal cement & I would be careful about forcing those tubes. I still think there is something askew (wrong) there.

If you mean gen end links, search timezone, vrf & ebay. Note that 'rattling' is common with gen end links. You can have a watchmaker tighten them to reduce the noise, but you then risk having them too tight. Most live with the rattle.

As Tribal said, matte varnish adds a gen-like texture to the dial face

The bezel/insert/pearl are gens & naturally aged.

If this is a new DW case & the pushers are loose in the holes, then you may need to buy larger diameter pushers from Ofrei. If the hole threading is stripped (pusher fits hole, but the screw portion does not seat), then you need a tap. If the threading on the pusher is stripped, you will need to replace the pushers. If the pusher screws into the case & seats properly, but loosens, then you may either be missing the c-clip (you can purchase a package of pusher c-clips from Ofrei - check their pusher page) or the screw portion of the pusher needs to be tightened from inside the case (you need to remove the internal components of the pusher & then screw the body down snug in the case). Sadly, I have experienced all of the above with DW cases. This is what comes of manufacturing without QC.

The tube should screw most of the way into the case with only light finger pressure. If you have to force it, something is wrong. It sounds like either the case tubes are wrong or your tap is. Assuming you are using the proper Rolex tap, be sure you are running the tap all the way through the side of the case. Afterwards, make sure the hole & threads are scrupulously clean.

I have yet to find any aftermarket hands that look correct. Gen hands here And here

This is a continuation of my Phase 1.2 project..... A few days ago, after a very lengthy search (the longest for any watch part in my experience), I received the final piece to my gen 6542 puzzle - the infamous 1030 24-hour (GMT) wheel, which is rarer than a hens' tooth & more sought after than a Turner (at least among collectors of vintage Rolex watches) It may look quite innocuous, but this is 1 of only a handful of parts that virtually every watchmaker, parts supplier, vintage clock/watch restorer (save for 1) considers impossible to find - at ANY price. (And before anyone asks, I cannot get any more.) Such is the demand for it. This part (along with a thimbleful of other only slightly less rare parts) is what turns the standard Rolex 1036 into the vaunted Rolex 1036GMT, which powers Rolex's original GMT-Master, the model 6542 'Pussy Galore' of James Bond fame To date, I had gone as far as I could go with my franken, which, as some of you may recall, was hand constructed as a 1-of-a-kind jewel out of various odds & ends along with a few gen parts (crown, crystal & bracelet, if memory serves me) Unfortunately, I will need to track down a 2nd 1036 donor watch since, in the interim, I have fallen in love with my previous donor & decided to keep it in my permanent collection Hopefully, my next update will also be my last & will highlight the completion of Phase 2 of my gen 6542 project.

Very nice LH. That crystal clear refraction around the circumference of the lens is what sets this crystal apart from all the others. It gives the Daytona a jewel-like appearance, which, to my eye, puts it head & shoulders above the domed crystal these watches originally came with.

The V23 is a bi-compax (2 working subdial registers) while the V72 is a tri-compax (3 working subdial registers). That is the principle difference between these 2 Valjoux models.

Nice comparison. My fav for vintage Daytonas remains the new/current (beveled) gen T21. Nothing makes a plain-Jane Daytona sparkle quite like them

Wearing my Tudor rose today (Wednesday)

Knowing 'The Boss', it could be just about anything from a 1-off custom job to a vintage Diesel.

Looks good. You can get a case to fit a gen dial (& movement) from Yuki or NDtrading.

With a vintage tool watch like the 5513, it is highly unlikely that the case has never been polished & the type, style & extent of the polishing is dependent on who did the work. For this reason, either is acceptable. It is mostly up to you & whether you want an authentic looking vintage watch or a 'new' 1

You can purchase either (along with screws for the tabs) from most of the watch parts houses (ofrei, cousinsuk, julesborel, etc).

Still late Tuesday here & I just put this on

If you are having trouble installing a gen bracelet, then I would sand the inside faces of the lugs since DW cases (like all aftermarket parts) are made with little or no QC. If you are trying to fit an aftermarket bracelet, then I would sand/file/grind the sides of the end links to make them fit. Be careful not to remove too much metal too quickly, or you could end up with spaces between the end links & case.

Still wearing this

JoJo's NDtrading dial is better than the MBW, but neither is 100% accurate. You should seek out some gen examples to compare both dials to.

4 dots?

Because they are permanently attached at the factory, I doubt Yuki (or any other seller) will be able to sell you the separate parts. Why not just ask Yuki if they have (or can source) an aftermarket 7205? As I found out with their 7206, it might already be available & as long as it fits the correct springbars, it might be the best way to go.

Photoshop, Paint Shop Pro or Corel will all do what you need. There are also scores of shareware programs that you can find via google or at a computer store.

I am by no means a radiation expert, but there have been a number of posts on TZ & VRF over the years where senior members have posted pics showing a small amount of activity coming from their 50s & early 60s Subs when placed next to the probe of a geiger counter. I remember 1 post in particular, where a member scoped several vintage watches in his collection. If I recall correctly, I think the original theme of that thread was the amount of radioactivity in 6542 GMTs vs other Rolex watches of the same period.