freddy333

1024x768 will suffice in future. Crown looks aftermarket.

I agree with the others - definite fake. However, since women are known to view watches solely as jewelry, they can pull off a fake without losing face. As a matter of point, a couple of years ago, I gave a female friend a hideously bad Daytona rep (there is a thread with pics floating around here somewhere) & she loves & wears it everywhere. Just about anyone here would cringe at the sight of it, but most men do not judge women by their watches. And since the dial says 'Rolex' & the case is sufficiently blingly, it more than satisfies the average feline. Hard to tell, but this 1 looks gen to me.

If you are missing c-clips, you can get a pack of replacements from Ofrei (I do not believe anyone sells them individually) (click pic for link) The c-clip-style pushers are what DWs come with (at least the older cases - I think he will be switching over to the better quality pushers that Ofrei sells at some point) & I always replace them (all the c-clip style pushers have problems). My recommendation is to get pushers from Ofrei. To install, you disassemble the pusher, screw the housing into the case & then install the inner components. Once assembled, you can insert a small screwdriver into the end of the center post to snug it up (do not overtighten). Then grind down the center post to the appropriate length to allow the movement to be installed & the pusher to activate the timer function. If you have a non-Oyster steel case, you need the Screw In Chronograph Watch Pusher PD 61.701 White If you have an Oyster case, you will need 1 of the 'Daytona' style pushers listed further down the page

Gentlemen, the game's afoot.........again (I have another donor 1035 en route).

The numbering is correct. Is that tape on the bottom or was it factory sealed when you received it?

I have never seen the packaging, but I had a similar problem with a 700 Triplock tube last year & was told about these oversized tubes then. I searched the TZ archives & I found numerous references to them from reliable sources. Can you post a good, clear macro pic of the gen packaging you received the part in?

Read me (including the links embedded within that post).

Not sure if this is relevant, but Rolex makes some oversized tubes for those cases where the threading had to be drilled out & re-tapped. In these cases, the hole ends up slightly larger than it began, which then necessitates an oversized tube. These oversized tubes are identified (on the package) as being oversized, but I wonder if someone might be repacking these oversized parts as standard parts since they are obviously more valuable. Or, maybe, it was labeled as such & you missed it? Did you buy the gen tubes from a Rolex-trained watchmaker with a parts account or an experienced (online) seller with a long history of (successful) Rolex parts sales?

Not in honor of Lindsey (whoever she is), I am also wearing 1 of my DJs today

No, just add a bit of enhanced patination so you are not walking around wearing a vintage watch that looks factory fresh. I agree with JoJo (big surprise). Get the Yuki. Timezone or vintage rolex forum (vrf). But I would not rule out ebay (as long as you always remember to buy (check out) the seller before you buy the watch). Yuki's, like most aftermarket cases, are made to fit gen movements. If you want to install an ETA (I would try to find a 'slow beat' ETA 2846 since the beat is closer to that of the Rolex 157x), you will need 1 of Stilty's spacers.

I use GC crystal cement & I would be careful about forcing those tubes. I still think there is something askew (wrong) there.

If you mean gen end links, search timezone, vrf & ebay. Note that 'rattling' is common with gen end links. You can have a watchmaker tighten them to reduce the noise, but you then risk having them too tight. Most live with the rattle.

As Tribal said, matte varnish adds a gen-like texture to the dial face

The bezel/insert/pearl are gens & naturally aged.

If this is a new DW case & the pushers are loose in the holes, then you may need to buy larger diameter pushers from Ofrei. If the hole threading is stripped (pusher fits hole, but the screw portion does not seat), then you need a tap. If the threading on the pusher is stripped, you will need to replace the pushers. If the pusher screws into the case & seats properly, but loosens, then you may either be missing the c-clip (you can purchase a package of pusher c-clips from Ofrei - check their pusher page) or the screw portion of the pusher needs to be tightened from inside the case (you need to remove the internal components of the pusher & then screw the body down snug in the case). Sadly, I have experienced all of the above with DW cases. This is what comes of manufacturing without QC.

The tube should screw most of the way into the case with only light finger pressure. If you have to force it, something is wrong. It sounds like either the case tubes are wrong or your tap is. Assuming you are using the proper Rolex tap, be sure you are running the tap all the way through the side of the case. Afterwards, make sure the hole & threads are scrupulously clean.

I have yet to find any aftermarket hands that look correct. Gen hands here And here

This is a continuation of my Phase 1.2 project..... A few days ago, after a very lengthy search (the longest for any watch part in my experience), I received the final piece to my gen 6542 puzzle - the infamous 1030 24-hour (GMT) wheel, which is rarer than a hens' tooth & more sought after than a Turner (at least among collectors of vintage Rolex watches) It may look quite innocuous, but this is 1 of only a handful of parts that virtually every watchmaker, parts supplier, vintage clock/watch restorer (save for 1) considers impossible to find - at ANY price. (And before anyone asks, I cannot get any more.) Such is the demand for it. This part (along with a thimbleful of other only slightly less rare parts) is what turns the standard Rolex 1036 into the vaunted Rolex 1036GMT, which powers Rolex's original GMT-Master, the model 6542 'Pussy Galore' of James Bond fame To date, I had gone as far as I could go with my franken, which, as some of you may recall, was hand constructed as a 1-of-a-kind jewel out of various odds & ends along with a few gen parts (crown, crystal & bracelet, if memory serves me) Unfortunately, I will need to track down a 2nd 1036 donor watch since, in the interim, I have fallen in love with my previous donor & decided to keep it in my permanent collection Hopefully, my next update will also be my last & will highlight the completion of Phase 2 of my gen 6542 project.

Very nice LH. That crystal clear refraction around the circumference of the lens is what sets this crystal apart from all the others. It gives the Daytona a jewel-like appearance, which, to my eye, puts it head & shoulders above the domed crystal these watches originally came with.

The V23 is a bi-compax (2 working subdial registers) while the V72 is a tri-compax (3 working subdial registers). That is the principle difference between these 2 Valjoux models.

Nice comparison. My fav for vintage Daytonas remains the new/current (beveled) gen T21. Nothing makes a plain-Jane Daytona sparkle quite like them

Wearing my Tudor rose today (Wednesday)

Knowing 'The Boss', it could be just about anything from a 1-off custom job to a vintage Diesel.