freddy333

The easiest way is to replace the last link, which the end links are permanently connected to. You can occasionally find these parts on ebay. Your best bet is to have an RSC handle the work since they are the only people I know of who still have access to the proper tool for this. However, if you want to do it yourself, you have to unfold the 2nd link (if you do not mind mangling the links up a bit, it can be done with a pair of small, sturdy screwdrivers), remove the existing last links (with the damaged end links attached) & then refold-in the new set of last links (with the new end links attached).

JoJo - if, by brown, you mean the original black paint has faded to brown, then that is a good thing. If the dial is just brown, then it may be an aftermarket part. Generally, fading occurs in blotches or degrees of fade. It does not generally leave a dial a solid brown color. Hard to be sure what to recommend without good, clear macros, but that is the guide I use.

Still wearing this

I think I paid close to $200 for each of the 2 reps I bought to get those 2 tiny parts (for 2 different projects). But, when your goal is perfection (or as close as possible without spending the cost of the gen), you have to balance that $200 that gets you that much closer to your goal versus not spending the money & being that much further away. It all depends on which type of collector you are - bugger the cost........the I want what I want for the best price I can get it for or the I have what I have because I got good deals on them. When the main goal is the project (you fall into the former category), the cost (within reason) becomes more of an incidental.

A gentle push fit.

It does the same thing (albeit to a lesser degree) as installing a gen bracelet - makes the watch look more gen-like

On my way out to dinner wearing this

If you feel you have what it takes, go to http://www.eta.ch, click on Catalog & Mechaline Specialties or Site Map & ETASWISSL@B (you may need to register for full access)

Yuki is now selling the 2 parts required to construct a working He valve for your 5514 Comex or 1665 Sea Dweller. Unfortunately, they are ridiculously priced at $100 (I am sure they much cost less than $1 to make), but at least you no longer have to buy a complete rep watch to get those parts as I used to do (Hev construction details in this link).

I got the Swiss/domestic indicators backwards regarding the width of the center links, but the hollow rivets definitely indicate Swiss manufacture. If the hinge has that small tab of metal like Yuki's, then it is definitely new/aftermarket. On the other hand, if the hinge is mangled (which never happens during normal use), then it is probably a franken gen bracelet (end links from 1 bracelet tacked onto another). These frankens also seem to be flooding the marketplace (nearly all of the 72xx bracelets I have seen on the bay recently are frankens), so definitely Caveat Emptor.

Too bad Nanuq was unable to provide pics, but this could be a great opportunity for someone working in a vintage Rolex project. However, narrow/wide links do not indicate bracelet size, but, rather, whether the bracelet was manufactured in Switzerland or domestically (narrow = domestic, wide = Swiss), not the size of the bracelet. Rivets, too, indicate location of manufacture (hollow indicate Swiss, solid indicate domestic). Also, as very credible fake rivet bracelets are now literally flooding the marketplace (I have even seen knowledgeable, veteran resellers (unknowingly) selling fakes as gens), I would hesitate to buy this without having good, clear macro pics (both inside & outside) of the end links & hinge between the end links & bracelet. This is the only reliable way I have found to tell the fakes from the gens. I posted some comparison pics in a thread a few months ago, but I cannot find it just now. Read this

Like the others, let me add my congrats on the gen purchases. But I wonder how long it will be until new output from the (rep) factories or changing fashions causes you rejoin the fold (as an active participant)?

I am wearing 1 of my DJs now & will probably wear it again tomorrow (Friday)

Thanks, Eddog, but I may soon do it 1 better. I just located the final missing piece to my Phase 2 (all gen) 6542 puzzle. Hopefully, I will have something to flatten you out further in the near future.

Mineral (glass) always has a green tint when viewed from the side, while sapphire is always clear or white. Glass (mineral) tends to feel cool to the touch, while sapphire tends to match the room temperature.

Still wearing my GMT

Well done, Ubi.

If it helps, while I have not handled the final products, I assisted DW with these (they are designed to gen specs), so they should be similar to Yuki's or NDtrading's. They were designed to accept/fit only gen parts (not ETA or standard rep dials).

The only case where uneven dial shaving should affect the location of the dial is on press-fit dials. Watches powered by Rolex 103xs come to mind here (the dials for the 103x have an outer (right-angle) flange that fits (snugly) around the main plate of the movement). Other dials, those affixed to the movement either by dial feet or held on with dial dots (or similar adhesives) will not be off-center if you shave too much or too little from 1 side. The cannon pinion (the shaft that holds the hands & runs through the center of the dial) centers the dial's position in the case. The problem you can run into if you remove too much material is leaving gaps between the edge of the dial & the inner flange (rehaut) of the case.

Some of them are outstanding - nearly 1:1 copies, so differences may be difficult to spot, especially for those who are not intimately familiar with the gen. Typically, incorrect/duplicated serial numbers (you will need to research gen serial number vs date of manufacture online) or the lack of a (natural) patina are give-aways.

I concur with Tribal. I have handled a few older inserts that had a dab of varnish across the backside (though it may have been added at some point after the watch left the factory), but I have never seen glue/cement used to affix a gen pearl. On the other hand, remember the Rolex vintage rule - anything is possible.

Maybe I am missing something here, but I do not see what all the fuss is about over the Puretime watch. To my eye, the MBW's sins (of which there are many) remain more palatable. And the MBW's presentation, on the whole, is more believable.

Exactly.