freddy333

I have no experience with either part, but I believe the gen 5513 dial is 26.05mm, so the case opening may be too large.

Before you waste too much time chasing ghosts, read this.

Please do not re-quote an entire set of pics just to add a line or 2.

The most difficult part, assuming you lack the tools, will be refitting the bezel. Depending on the construction of your particular rep watch, the bezel can usually be pried-off with a thin knife/blade. Sometimes, this can take some time if the bezel is tight or has been affixed with cement (cheap reps are often assembled this way). Just work the knife in a tiny bit in between the bottom of the bezel & top of the case. Move all the way around the case evenly &, eventually, the bezel will come lose & can be lifted off. Sometimes, it takes a few minutes, but, sometimes, it can take 30+ minutes. It all depends on the fit of your particular bezel/case. Once the bezel is off, the crystal, again, assuming it also was not cemented onto the case, should lift off (by hand) or can be gently nudged with the edge of the knife in the same fashion as the bezel (work slowly all the way around the crystal). To reinstall, simply reverse the procedure - install crystal, then bezel. It is best to have a good caseback press & set of nylon 'pucks' that fit the perimeter of the bezel & perimeter of the caseback to press the bezel back on. However, if you are careful, you may be able to refit the bezel using an appropriately-sized pair of socket wrench sockets (or something similar - any round, cylindrical object with a smooth face that fits will work) & a vice. Just be careful to press gently, slowly & keep the watch centered in the vice so the bezel presses on evenly. Otherwise, if it gets pressed on unevenly, you are likely to warp it, which adds alot of additional headaches. Also, it should be obvious, but just to be clear, the cylinder you use on the bezel side (to press it onto the case) must not come into contact with the crystal as this will crack/crush it. You can probably find youtube videos that show how to press a bezel on to give you an idea of the process & make it easier to find substitutes for the nylon 'pucks'.

Still wearing my 3rd fav Newman

Once dry, there are no fumes to worry about from standard super glue & because it sets quickly, there is less chance of leaving glue 'webs' on the dial. GS has a tendency to lose its grip over time. But whatever you feel comfortable with...................

No tutorial for reattaching a detached dial part that I am aware of. You can usually reattach using superglue or similar adhesive, but I would practice gluing small metal bits onto a practice plate before attempting it on your dial because it is VERY easy to get glue on the dial face. I have to say that the rep in the link is not very good, so you may be better off just replacing the watch with 1 from Trusty or Josh. To avoid throwing good money after bad, before hitting another BUY button, I would recommend that you do some research on whichever gen Daytona model you want & you might also check out By-Tor's Daytona reviews that should be available via the search function here on RWG. & if you get glue on the dial, you are screwed - there is no way to fix it (without damaging the dial paint) other than replacing or repainting the dial.

Decase the watch and let it run out of the case for 24 hours. If it keeps running (out of the case), the problem may be due to the hands coming into contact with the underside of the crystal. If it stops out of the case, you will need to have it looked at/treated. The problem with swapping 7750 movements is that, in addition to the dial/handset, you will also need to transplant the additional plate & 9 wheels that relocate the running seconds from 9-to-6 o'clock. & even if you do that, as explained previously, unless the movement is overhauled & treated with powdered graphite, because the secs @ 6 7750s are inherently unreliable with the additional gearing, the next 1 is likely to stop as well. There are a number of tech articles on RWG (the best by Ziggy & By-Tor) that detail the issue. Unfortunately, there are no easy answers or simple shortcuts that I am aware of. This is why many opt for 1 of the 1165xx Daytonas that have non-functional chronographs (ie, basic 3-hand movement with running secs @ 6).

Lovely fauna you got up there in the great north.

I think white dials give a watch a clean, fresh look, especially, for watches commonly seen with a black or dark dial. Also, a white dial can make it more legible, which is a good thing.

Yes. On many movements, the timing adjustment piece has 2 tiny dots on it, which are the ends of the pins that run down along each side of the hairspring (the other piece to its left is where the hairspring terminates & it sets the beat - do not move it!) & increase/decrease the 'spring's effective length - slowing/increasing the balance, which slows/increases the speed of the movement.

With the caseback removed, looking at the area of the balance wheel, you should see a piece that sticks out like this - To reduce the speed of the movement (slow the watch), use a toothpick (assuming you lack a proper tool) to gently & ever so slightly nudge the piece slightly closer to the other piece where the hairspring terminates. Again, just a wee bit as this adjustment can make a huge difference. It is very easy to go too far & end up with a watch running too slow or slip & damage the hairspring or another component. So be careful! Then, fully wind the watch, set it to a computer or other accurate time-keeper & wear it for 24 hours. After 24 hours, compare the difference in seconds with the computer clock & readjust that sliding piece until you are within about 5-10 secs/day. Good luck.

As alligoat said, the links have been removed (scammer/fake parts?), so you are mostly on your own. As to the cost of polishing & assembly (which is what a proper watchmaker does with every watch he overhauls), depending on the model & complications (& your location, if you have the work handled by a local watchmaker), this will cost anywhere from about $200-$1,500+. A standard, non-date 3-hand Oyster Perpetual, assuming all the correct parts are there & in spec, near the lower end. A chronograph or a watch needing parts will raise the bar to the high end. Remember, Rolex is the watch equivalent of a Mercedes-Benz, the cheap 1s tend to end up costing the most.

Sorry to hear about the bad luck, but happy to hear they did not harm you.

Still lugging 1 of these old things around

Ditto Alligoat's comments. The 6mm Twinlock crown users a smaller diameter tube, but the hole in the case should be the same diameter/thread pitch for either tube. That said, many rep & aftermarket cases have poorly or incorrectly tapped case holes (for both the crown & pushers). So be careful when fitting a new tube & be prepared to have to re-tap the hole to make a gen tube fit without cross-threading (most of the watchmaker supply houses sell tap sets for Rolex crowns & pushers). & nice watch!

I feel for you, but we have all been there. There are many threads on RWG describing exactly the same experience. It is the nature of the beast when you consider that, unlike genuine watches, most reps are 'manufactured' on someone's kitchen table or floor, amid the dust & crumbs of daily life. I am sometimes amazed that any of them work at all. In any case, because of the poor quality (& general lack of proper QC), it is generally recommended that you factor in the cost of a professional overhaul for any rep that you expect to keep for a long time, need to rely on or plan to use in or near water.

It is a good idea to always do a bit of research or ask for help BEFORE buying a rep. Nearly all reps contain either used or unserviced movements, which means they may arrive with problems. Worse, some reps have inherent problems that are either difficult/expensive to put right or must be returned to the seller for repairs (unless the seller recommends you use a local watchmaker). In the case of a new rep that just stops running, it may contain an unserviced (ie, dirty) movement that simply requires a standard overhaul (disassembly, cleaning, oiling & adjustment), or it may contain a used movement that either needs an overhaul or had problems when it was installed in the case. Things are even more complicated if your Daytona contains the infamous secs @ 6 7750 movement, which have a long history of inherent problems. The most common problem can be remedied by a full overhaul & application of graphite lubricant to the additional components that relocate the running seconds from the 7750's natural 9 o'clock position to the Rolex 1165xx's 6 o'clock position (see this thread - note that I am not providing this service - you will need to refer this to another watchmaker).

I am not seeing any 'spelling error', but I would replace the dial & reshape the CGs. Other than that, what is your goal (tool watch, safe queen, used/abused, etc) & how deep are your pockets?

After a frustrating morning, I felt the urge to push something, so I switched over to 1 of my Newmans

Just about every watch parts supplier sells them. google watchmaker supplies.

It depends entirely on the details of the particular bracelets in question. Some of the best replica bracelets are very difficult to tell apart from the genuine article. If you read some of the older threads about Yuki 720x rivet bracelets, you will see what I mean. That said, most people cannot tell the difference between average reps & gens, so the knowledge, experience & sensitivity of the viewer plays a large part.