I think the price to build a V72 DW begins around $2,000 & goes up from there. But that is somewhat misleading because you have to factor in the amount of time & effort (not to mention tools) required to construct a V72-powered DW. And to pay a watchmaker to do the work for you will add an even larger chunk to your total cost. So, in the end, assuming you do not replace the caseback with glass or go around opening your watch on the streets, there is so little visual or functional difference between a V72 & A7750 powered DW that I have a hard time justifying it.
A common (& understandable) question that all of us go through (you can Search out numerous threads by DW builders/owners pondering the same question). But I do not know of a single case where once the Daytona was completed, its owner decided to de-construct his new Daytona in favor of the original watch.
Ditto on the 5513 (a 5508 would cost you). Time for a thoroughbred diver's watch - a watch designed for a singular purpose - that of telling the time (not the date).
Fabulous collection, by the way.
The system, especially the index pages, has been S-L-O-W as molasses for the past few months, so I am glad to hear that something is finally being done about it. Hopefully, the upgrade will remedy the problem without causing any (or, at least, not too many) additional problems. Good luck & thanks for keeping RWG going.
Clark's Rolex crystals are made to the same dimensional specs as the gen Tropics & both should fit the MBW. The lug holes on the stock MBW are too small to fit the 2mm springbars that came with the gen 5513. Many owners drill the stock holes out themselves & replace the springbars with gens or gen-sized aftermarket bars from ebay. There are numerous tutorials that you can find via Search which describe the procedure.
I have never seen washers used for springbars. If the correct springbar is fitted to your watch, it should not require any spacers.
You need a drill press & vice (to hold the case in place during drilling). I use an inexpensive press I got from Sears that works with any standard hand drill. This thread discusses the procedure for drilling the duo-hole required for a working Hev, but the same procedure (minus 1 step) produces lug holes.
I think the new Subs are too blingy to be called a 'true Sub'. However, accepting that they are now more jewelry than tool, I still like the blue ceramic Sub. I just cannot imagine any serious diver going into the depths with a chunk of blue bling strapped to his wrist. Unless, of course, his wet suit, mask & fins were coordinated to match his watch.
I like the pics. Excellent composition. But I do not like the caseback at all. Also, the 6 & 9 index markers are a bit too narrow, but I would need to see better pics of the watch itself (good, clear close-ups) to see enough detail to comment further (reliably).
My MBW/MBKs are more than 2 years old & the factory may have changed the current design, but my stock dials glowed far too brightly for a 30 year-old tritium dial (which should have little or no glow at all). This is also 1 of the biggest design flaws on many aftermarket dials (the use of modern lume on what is supposed to be a vintage dial) & 1 of the main reasons I replaced (& separately relumed) my aftermarket dials
It might be worth detailing the movement options (V23 or V72) for DWs & similar case kits. I think you also mentioned that all of the 1165xx cases were too thick, which is only partially correct. Some of the early secs at 6 versions (like mine) came with nearly correctly sized middle-cases, which I referenced in the Build a Perfect Daytona thread awhile back. You might also include more details &/or links for your 16520 construction projects since these are pretty much the benchmark for frankenbuilders.
I am sorry to hear this. They are as iconic as it gets in the watchmaking world, but I think their demise is due more to their antiquated technology (relative to today's digital diagnostic tools) than anything else.
To the best of my knowledge, gen dials (& aftermarket dials made to gen specs) will only fit Valjoux 23/72 movements & their direct variants (like Rolex 727).