freddy333

Unless I am missing something, if you have access to blank ETA 2846 datewheels, why not just print directly onto that since the (slow beat) 2846 is the optimal movement for these vintage Subs and SDs? This way, as long as the printer gets the printing right on the DW, it will be a simple swap for any owner or watchmaker. Makes alot more sense than to print onto an extra substrate that the owner (or his watchmaker) then has to hope they get straight on the DW. On second thought, even if you cannot get blank ETA datewheels, you should be able to use the pre-printed DWs since the radial finishing procedure should remove the exiting layer of paint anyway. Then you just print the new numbers onto the face of the ETA DW & you are all set to install.

Now that makes it all worth while. Nice.

DW sells the same cases for less than Phong does, but your biggest hit, by far, comes from the Valjoux 72 movement (once you are actually able to acquire one) & all the ancillary gen parts you need. Figure $1,500+ for those (plus the cost of the case) and you still have to get everything constructed into a cohesive watch. Considering the amount of work required, I can see why Phong charges what he does for a fully-assembled Daytona. I proposed the idea to DW that he consider selling the 7751-version here (the 7751 is the manual-wind version of the 7750), but he felt there would not be a sufficient number of paying customers (retail would run around $800) to make it worth his while. And my informal poll, while showing there is some interest here, did not convince him otherwise. But, I agree with you that such a watch is sadly missing from the marketplace.

If you want to buy an assembled vintage franken-Daytona (or build your own the easy (albeit expensive) way), click here. But if you just want to buy a reasonable rep, check the Watch Collector Galleries (requires Supporter status). These watches are complicated & there are alot of variations among the reps, most of which deviate from accuracy. So to avoid making a costly mistake, I would familiarize yourself with the gens in the Rolex forums on TZ or the listings on antiquorum.com before you click any Buy buttons.

An oops for me too. You are right, Alligoat. My mistake. I was thinking Twinlock, not Triplock. Mark has the correct tubes (as does Cousinsuk.com and other ebay dealers). I did get mine from Ofrei, but I cannot find them on their site, so either they do not stock them anymore or you have to inquire by phone. Sorry.

Lots of new/nice pieces (looks like you have your work cut out for you Euno). Daytona beater for me today (It looks better on her wrist than on mine) And some eye candy

Definitely NOT a good idea. If the problem is not due to the hands coming into contact with the dial (or each other), then you will need to have a watchmaker inspect the movement. That is the only way to locate the problem.

The hands are probably coming into contact with the dial. If you have a magnifying glass, you might be able to see it. An easy fix for any watchmaker (that works on reps).

I may be wrong because I only buy steel, but I think the gold Triplocks are probably going to cost a bit more -- between $50-$100 for used, and $100-$200 for new.

Triplock 703 Crown (price variable) = search ebay 'New style' 6mm generic Swiss-made tube for above ($6/ea) = ofrei If you plan to do the work yourself, you will probably want to get a Rolex crown tube tool, $35 from cas-ker & a tap for same, from same

Thanks, Ubi. Same back at you. And I know that my taste has improved immeasurably since joining RWG.

Yes, very busy. But I always LOVE to see any of those Daytona gems of yours, Ubi. Here is the main vintage Daytona lineup The 6241 has since been fitted with the same gen 7835/357 bracelet as on the other 2, but there have also been unconfirmed sightings of straps Now if Avitt will just post those luscious twins of his, I think we might just get this party started.

Arty, not sure why, but I love your watch.

After being on the waiting list for 4 years, look what the postman just delivered -- the 2008 Daytona 6239 Sorry, just kidding.

The overlays in the gens are the same, but there are at least 2 different versions of ETA movements being used in our reps & the overlays for each version of movement may be different. Or not. But I do not know for sure because I have only used the 2846 in my watches. Maybe Ziggy or someone else has the specs?

A proper metal white or brushed 0.07mm (thickness) overlay for a 1665 would be welcome from anyone able to perfect them. I am sure the original crew still have the proper dimensions & illustrations, but I did a high res scan of 1 of my Watchmeister DWs before it was installed, so if anyone needs it just let me know. And you can count me in for at least 1 metal overlay DW for an ETA 2846 (in a 1665 Seadweller) if these do become a reality.

Datejust today

The only quick fix is to fully (hand) wind the watch (40 turns), if it is not already fully wound. (Self-winding watches must be fully wound by hand to prime the mainspring. After that, normal daily wear should maintain it.) Otherwise, the movement may need cleaning and/or regulation, neither of which is available as a quick fix. Try hand-winding the watch, set the time to your computer's clock and then set the watch down (face up) on a table for 24 hours (do not pick it up, move it or touch it during this time) and see how it goes. If it is more than about 15 seconds off (fast or slow) the next day, I would contact the seller for instructions.

Confused? Go to your AD, look/try on a bunch of watches & find the one (or mixture of options) that works for you. Once you know what you are looking for & are familiar with what the gen looks & feels like, you can make a more educated buying decision. Then find a collector who has what you are looking for. As far as sizes, I have not compared any of the current crop of datejusts. But, other than the obvious qualitative differences, my 20 year old datejust rep is the same size as my 20 year old gen (rep) (gen)

I have to agree. I will happily give up some speed to have those ratings back. I thought they were the coolest function in the forums (and all this extra typing must increase the load more than those ratings did).

Not my style, but a beautiful rep.

I thought it came from Florida, but Dax may have been it.

Welcome home, Ubi. Take your shoes off & stay awhile. After a day in Patekland I am off to dinner in this

What Andy used is probably ok, but its bond may break while you are reinstalling the arm, which is usually when arms tend to break anyway. A slow-drying (30-60 minute) Epoxy is probably a better way to go since it creates a steel-like bond that will not come apart again. Just be careful to do as Andy suggested and use the point of a pin (viewed through a loupe) to apply the cement, being careful to apply it only to the point of contact where the underside of the hand intersects with the hand tube. I usually set the hand in some rodico or putty of some type to steady it while I apply the epoxy. Let it sit, undisturbed, for 24 hours & you should be back in business. While you are at it, I would do the rest of the hands since they are probably loosening themselves as I write this.

Your crown tube (the small, threaded tube that screws into the case) is stripped, so the crown's threads will no longer correctly mate with it. A very common problem with reps. You have 2 choices - either see if the collector you purchased the watch from is willing to give/sell you another rep crown tube, or, better yet, buy a gen Rolex tube & crown (the rep crown will not fit onto a gen tube or vice-versa) and have a watchmaker install them. You can usually find used 7mm Triplock crowns for $20-$50 on ebay & new-style 6mm Swiss-made aftermarket tubes for $6/ea from Ofrei Note that I do not own a YM, so I cannot tell you if a gen tube will fit your case without modification, or how much modification may be required to make it fit. Someone else may have that info.