freddy333

Stephane - So where were you when I sold the rest of them? But it is not just Beatle vinyls that are collectible. This (still sealed) CD is considerably rarer than any Butcher Cover vinyl Here is the story of this CD

Yes, 2 of them (at one time, many years ago, I had a baker's dozen). But the other one is a much rarer (and better condition) Stereo version, which I keep in the bank.

Yes and I was hoping the 2 pictures of rare LPs (I have more) would spark a General Discussion of some of the other things members collect in addition to watches (like LPs), but one of the quick-fingered moderators apparently decided the pictures trumped the conversation & moved my thread before I finished the text.

Jon - The He valve is essentially a metal plug/rubber gasket sitting in a hole in the side of the case and held closed with a spring (click here for additional details). As the pressure inside the case increases it will eventually exceed the pressure outside the case. When this threshold is exceeded, the inside pressure 'pushes' the plug outward, opening the plug a bit & allowing the pressure to escape. Because the plug is held in place by a spring, the plug is drawn back into the case returning to its original (closed) position as the pressure inside the case diminishes and equalizes with the outside pressure. To put it simply, it happens automatically, you never do or see anything. themuck - I will add my thank you to all those that preceded me. My only complaint (a pretty large one I am afraid) is that you need to either locate the Macro control on your camera (and learn how to use it) so your close-ups will be useful or get a camera that has one (nearly all digital cameras do). Your review is excellent, but your photos are nearly worthless. And I agree with Offshore's comments (do not assume that all of these watches are similarly pressure & water proof).

Where/when? Details?

Trusty Double Red And here is old trusty sunning by the water at lunch

Copper Dial-Feet Assorted for Wrist Watches Bergeon, 100 piece assortment Swiss Made. BERG-10040 $9.95

Implanted, yes. With little or no hassle, sometimes yes & sometimes no.

Anyone have a spare current version Daytona chrono seconds hand (Asian 7750) in mint condition?

Easy - just replace the part that was ground down.

Take one of the remaining screws to a local watchmaker or jeweler. They should have something similar.

Dress shots you say?

Back to the beater (for Monday) But dreaming of a roadtrip

Sounds like the beginning of the long-feared ETA retrenchment into the bowels of the Swatch Group. But it is curious that only quartz models are (so far) effected. Like Ziggy, I have had suppliers tell me there should not be a problem getting ETA parts for the foreseeable future, but this news does make one wonder. On the other hand, could it be that mechanical movements are beginning to do to quartz movements what quartz did to mechanicals back in the 70's (outsell them)?

UPDATE 48 HOURS LATER - I fixed the stuck top pusher problem & half-solved The Mystery of the 'Creeping' Hour Totalizer (the spring comes unhinged if/when you press the lower (reset) chrono button hard. Now, the reason one has to press the chrono reset button hard is because pressing it normally will only reset the chrono seconds and minutes hands......the chrono hour hand (the one that 'creeps') either does not move or it will only move part of the way back to its null position. You have to keep pressing the chrono reset button harder & harder to get the hand to budge its way back to its proper null position. The Catch-22 here is that pressing the lower chrono (reset) button this hard is what causes the spring to pop out of position, which then allows the hour totalizer hand to start 'creeping'. None of the 3 chrono reset parts appear to be worn, bent or broken (Note that this picture was taken with the hour totalizer gear removed & the spring has since been reset to its correct position) So does Ziggy or anyone else familiar with 7750s know what is causing the lower chrono (reset) button to have to be pressed so hard to fully reset the hour totalizer hand?

Nice work. See also The Twilight Zone

Looks like it may be a good buy, but for any vintage Daytona hopefuls who may be getting ready to pounce on this hoping to complete a DW kit, you should know that this is not the right Valjoux. For a DW Daytona, you need a Valjoux 72 (or 23, which is a 72 minus the hour totalizer/counter).

Still Sunday night in my time zone & I am wearing this Tomorrow? No idea until I get there.

It would help to know the specific movement, but it sounds like the stem is not seating fully each time you insert it.

Thank you. This info helped. When I removed the bridge, I found the hour hammer spring had slipped off the hour hammer operating lever, which released the hour hammer and allowed the white plastic hour counter lock (the component that 'brakes' & stabilizes the hour totalizer hand) to swing away from the hour totalizer gear (I have removed the hour totalizer gear in this picture) I am assuming the spring had somehow become dislodged while the movement was out of the case (I had removed it to install a gen crown/tube). However, it may also have been dislodged when I first removed the bridge. Because the only other thing that looked different based on ETA's picture of the assembled braking mechanism was the way the k-n-o-b of the plastic hour counter lock did not quite fit all the way into the cut out of the hour hammer operating lever (though everything seemed to function properly when I moved them manually). So I just re-engaged the spring around both the hour hammer operating lever & the hour hammer (in its correct position, according to the ETA drawing) And then I reassembled everything up to the dial (I only attached the hand for the hour totalizer so I could test it thoroughly before completing the reassembly). _________ UPDATE - Same problem & now there is a new problem - I cannot operate (push) the top pusher lever at all. It will not budge. So I disassembled the watch back to where I had reset the spring to see if the spring or one of the other components had come lose and worked itself into the top pusher mechanism. But the spring was still in the correct location and nothing else looked out of place. But even with the bridge and the 8 extra gears removed, I still cannot operate the top pusher (and the hour totalizer is still creeping). Ignoring the top pusher issue for the moment and concentrating on the hour totalizer issue, the only thing I can see that strikes me as possibly odd is that the hour totalizer gear looks a bit lop-sided when viewed from the side. Because of this, the plastic hour counter lock (which I assume is what keeps the hour totalizer gear from turning when it is not in use) is not making firm contact with the gear's teeth and it is unable to 'brake' the gear's movements (note the gear's lop-sided stance and the way the plastic lock comes into contact with it just under the edge of the gear's teeth) Does it look like this could be the cause of the hour totalizer creeping? And do you see anything that might account for why the top pusher will not operate (I cannot press the lever in to start the chrono)?

Thank you. This info helped. When I removed the bridge, I found the hour hammer spring had slipped off the hour hammer operating lever, which released the hour hammer and allowed the white plastic hour counter lock (the component that 'brakes' & stabilizes the hour totalizer hand) to swing away from the hour totalizer gear (I have removed the hour totalizer gear in this picture) I am assuming the spring had somehow become dislodged while the movement was out of the case (I had removed the movement while I was installing a crown/tube). However, it could have been dislodged during removal of the bridge, but I am hoping it was the former & not the latter case. The only other thing that looked different than the layout in the ETA diagram of the braking assembly was the way the k-n-o-b end of the plastic hour counter lock (the white 'L' shaped piece in the 1st picture) did not quite fit all the way into the cut-out of the hour hammer operating lever as it does in the diagram above (the round bit just sat in the cut-out and pivoted as the parts moved). But everything seemed to function properly when I moved them manually, so I just re-engaged the spring around both the hour hammer operating lever & the hour hammer (it actually was not difficult once I figured out how to hold the metal bits with my finger while expanding & slipping the leg of the spring around the lever). And then I reassembled everything up to the dial (I only attached the hand for the hour totalizer so I could test it thoroughly before completing the reassembly).

THE LEGEND THE PROBLEM I am trying to repair yet another secs at 6 Asian 7750 that has the same problem my secs at 9 7750 had -- the hour totalizer (subdial at 9) continues to move when the chronograph is off. In this case, the problem continues when the movement is out of the case, so I know I am dealing with one of the components Ziggy mentioned above. THE STORY SO FAR I removed the top plate of the movement (note the 3 jewels in the plate where the pins of the 3 subdial gears fit through) I stopped here to take a picture of the bridge and extra gearing the factory added to relocate the running seconds hand from the stock 7750's usual location (9 o'clock subdial) to the proper location of the running seconds on a modern 1165xx Daytona (6 o'clock subdial) THE PLOT THICKENS I then lifted-off all of the gears except for the top one (the top gear seems to be press-fit onto its pinion) I stopped there and wanted to ask Ziggy or anyone who has worked on these movements a few questions before I proceed. THE 3 QUESTIONS 1 - How do I remove this 1 remaining gear (it does not simply lift-off like the other 7 gears did)? 2- Are there any gotchas that relate to either removing or reinstalling the bridge & remaining gear (are there any special tools required for setting clearances, etc.)? That is, once I figure out how to remove the remaining gear, can I just remove the 3 screws & lift off the bridge -- is reassembly just a reversal of the removal procedure? 3- Am I correct that none of the gears or jewels either on this bridge or in the top plate gets oiled during reassembly? ______________ FOOD FOR THOUGHT As an aside (regarding the oil, or lack of it in these secs at 6 7750s) - I have found that every one of these secs at 6 7750s have very 'twitchy' seconds hands. That is, instead of a 'sweeping' motion as the hand moves around the seconds subdial, the movement is quite erratic & stuttery. As this erratic behavior does not seem to effect any of the secs at 9 7750s, I think it is safe to say that the problem is related to the additional gearing used to relocate the running seconds hand. Looking at the design of the additional bridge and gearing, this could be due either to the 'play' between the final 2 gears or it could be due to the lack of precise fit of the gears onto their pinions (there is clearly a bit of slop in there) or it could be due to the lack of lubrication (or any mixture of the above). I know that using oil to lubricate the additional gearing for these relocated running seconds hands adds additional drag and friction to the already overloaded movement. But I am wondering if Ziggy or anyone else has ever considered (or tried) using powdered graphite to lubricate the extra gearing since, being a dry (very fine powder) lubricant, it should not add much (if any) additional drag & might be just the thing to resurrect some of the prematurely dead Daytonas.....at least as a stop-gap measure until the factories build a better mouse trap. Anyone try this stuff yet (I am hesitant to test the theory on my watch since it is one of the few that are still running.....if it ain't broke, don't fix it)?

Franken. Definitely. And based on this clown's selling history, I would be pretty surprised if the watch the 'winner' receives would contain any of the gen parts in the (purposely blurry - to disguise the details) pictures.

Beautiful work, Zig. Kevin300z - the 1570 Rolex movement comes with (or accepts) a gen datewheel. One of the reasons for using a gen movement is that you do not have to screw around with aftermarket datewheels and all of their associated problems.