freddy333

Search out By-Tor's 116520 & Ziggy's secs @ 6 7750 reviews. You might also read my Perfect Daytona thread (note the disclaimer at the top).

TOG today

Fonts & spacing?

Yes, WatchNY. That is the guy with the good bezels.

Best wristie of the day.

If you value cheapness over accuracy, Mr. Slimeball is your man. His bezel is a typical rep part containing the widely spaced 1-1-0. There is another seller on ebay (I forget his name, but I am sure someone else will chime in with it) that has very accurate bezels priced around $200.

Do not PM me regarding this issue as we have no control over other sites & I am no longer a member on the other site. But I can tell you that having multiple accounts is against the rules on most sites & that alone can result in a banning.

It is no more difficult to read than my Mystery DJ, which also lacks markers. The clock is on the wall behind my speakers & was placed there more for aesthetics than serious time-keeping.

I know nothing about these types of watches, but, if he were selling them, based on the generally fuzzy pics, I would automatically assume them to be reps.

Yes.

Originally, without seeing the back, I thought this was a gen dial. But the back looks new/aftermarket. Like Ubi, I also used a ft 1st in my pre-Comex, but the cross in the t should be a bit higher than the cross in the f for a pre-Comex (at least that is the way they are on the 2 gens that I am aware of), which this dial does not have.

The OP's watch just looks like he has the chrono running.

To make a reasonably accurate Newman would require expertise, time & money (mostly for r&d). Some years ago, on behalf of DW, I posted a thread asking whether people would be willing to pay several hundred $ for a 62xx. This was based on a DW 6263 that I had modded, which DW was considering copying for sale. Unfortunately, at the time, DW felt there was insufficient interest to make such a project profitable.

Read any of Ziggy's secs @ 6 7750 reviews & click me

Vintage is more my thing, but if you are sure something is not working the way it is supposed to (& it is not pilot error), you should begin by asking the seller what you should do.

Looks good , but where is the wristie with the bracelet?

Ditto all of the above. I think you need to spend some time researching the specific model you are interested in. There are a number of good Rolex books, not to mention pics on gen sites as well as google that you can compare reps to.

Finally, some pics that do these classics justice.

G-S Hypo Cement or clear finger nail polish Whatever you use, make sure it is dry before closing the case.

Gentlemen (you know who you are & DO NOT PM ME REGARDING MD2020 OR RELATED THREADS) - I hate to be heavy-handed, but if another MD2020 thread has to be locked due to personal attacks, at least 3 of you will be affected as well. Please stop the personal attacks now. Final warning.

I noticed a couple of things I missed earlier - You posted pics of 2 different inserts & used the later version (I think the earlier would have been more appropriate) Based on the extremely advanced position of the regulator, it looks like there is a problem with the balance & the gib (the tiny X-shaped clip on the rotor) is not locked into place

Top notch, as usual. Was the dial done by KR? Anything short of a gen Oyster rivet would be criminal.

For a watch that is regularly exposed to water (including rain or getting it wet while washing your hands), once/year is the minimum. Keep in mind that over-tightening the caseback/crown will accelerate gasket wear & a gasket that sealed yesterday may not tomorrow. In my case, for rare or important watches (that covers most of my collection), I avoid moisture altogether even though I run everything through the tester regularly.