freddy333

1st time I have seen this, but I stand corrected.

A silver date wheel in a 1675 is still news to me.

Your hard work shows, especially on the case work. But a few issues stick out - The bezel is too large for the case. It partially covers the crown/CGs, which looks wrong. I get the effect you are going for with the missing hour markers, but I am not generally a fan of the way you went about it. If you really want that look, I think you should remove all the lume or leave it all on. The effect here looks 'manufactured', if you know what I mean. It may be the pics (you need a camera with a macro function), but the datewheel looks silver, which, to the best of my knowledge, was never used in a GMT.

Euno - Wow (& nice to see you again)!

I replaced the standard 65w halogen headlight bulbs with 75w (off-road racing) rallye bulbs (which produce a whiter, longer beam), & added an auxiliary input jack to the radio so I can play my ipod. Otherwise, all stock. I do not mod my cars.

Stampings aside, always buy the seller 1st, & nothing about that sale/seller inspires confidence. In fact, everything points in the opposite direction. But your experience may vary. I was not aware that DW was selling modded movements, but you may know something that I do not. The ZX's color is Mahogany, which was 1 of the original, standard color options (fyi - Paul Newman raced a ZX &, separately, owned the same car (& in the same color), but opted for the removable T-top) (my car) (my car)

Difficult to see/photograph, but the etched crown contains an S -

Seller in Pakistan with 98% rating after only 62 sales, who claims a Swiss-made 7750 in an obviously bottom-end rep case. & you believe that? I would be very surprised if the movement was properly functioning upon arrival & not surprised at all if it was made considerably east of the Swiss border (ie, Asian-made).

I do not have my original MBW caseback anymore, but I recall the main problems were the shape/size of the crown & location of the dot between the T in PATENT & the E in VALVE (it is not evenly spaced on the MBW & most reps). If you were to draw a circular line that followed the top horizontal line of each letter, it should run directly through the center of the dot. This is the way it should look

Eek! I think it might be time for another pressure test.

The problem with cementing dial feet is that they often fall off. At least that has been my experience. I posted a tutorial several years ago, but it may have been lost during 1 of the site upgrades. The only sure-fire way to permanently attach them is by soldering & there are tools designed for that purpose to avoid damaging the painted surface. Again, there is a tutorial that was floating around here that you may be able to locate via the Search.

Well done.

Rolex magnification is 2.5x & most reps fall between 1.5 & 2. Ladies models tend to appear more accurate due to their relatively diminutive size. In general, I would avoid yellow gold & 'jewels' on reps, as they tend not to last very long & identify themselves as fake by anyone who knows anything about such things. Were it my mother, I would select an all steel model (or, if she must have bling, 2 tone) without jewels. Remember, the more plain-Jane the watch, the less likely it is to be identified as a fake.

Without seeing a genuine Rolex movement inside the case, I would assume it is a rep. If the seller does provide a good, clear pic of the movement (& it appears to be genuine), then I would rely on the old Rolex axiom of buying the buyer before buying the watch.

If you ordered reps having never seen the gens before, I think you are making a big mistake. The primary purpose of rep sellers' QC pics, such as they are, is to give the buyer some degree of confidence that the rep the seller is shipping will match the description/pics you see (saw) on the seller's website. Nothing more. So, to answer your initial question - you use the QC pics to make sure they match the watch in the pics on the seller's website. In future, to reduce the likelihood of problems, I would (strongly) encourage you to research the specific model you are interested in before clicking the buy button. In the meantime, read items 1 & 2 under Behavior & item 5 under Posting. I would also recommend that you read Toad's Newb guide, which is pinned in the Introduction forum, which should have been your 1st stop when visiting RWG. Finally, if the watch is a current model, go to the authorized dealer (AD), try the watch on, operate the functions & learn how it looks/feels on your wrist. Without knowing anything about the genuine watch, your chances for long-term satisfaction with a rep are slim or none. p.s. Regardless of the seller's hyperbole, the fact is that nearly all reps contain used &/or unserviced movements. The watches are assembled in anything but clean-room conditions with little or no QC. So if the watch is important, consider having a local (professional) watchsmith overhaul the movement as soon as you receive it. That way, you can be reasonably certain that your new watch will be reliable for 5-7 years (the average recommended interval between overhauls for virtually all mechanical watches).

If the watch is important to you, I would take it directly to a local watchmaker & have him check it for you. It could be a loose rotor, but it sounds more like you have a screw loose (I mean your the watch, not you personally), which is a common with reps & can lead to very serious problems if it lodges inside the movement.

I would love to see a clear pic of those 2.