If you value cheapness over accuracy, Mr. Slimeball is your man. His bezel is a typical rep part containing the widely spaced 1-1-0.
There is another seller on ebay (I forget his name, but I am sure someone else will chime in with it) that has very accurate bezels priced around $200.
Do not PM me regarding this issue as we have no control over other sites & I am no longer a member on the other site. But I can tell you that having multiple accounts is against the rules on most sites & that alone can result in a banning.
It is no more difficult to read than my Mystery DJ, which also lacks markers.
The clock is on the wall behind my speakers & was placed there more for aesthetics than serious time-keeping.
I know nothing about these types of watches, but, if he were selling them, based on the generally fuzzy pics, I would automatically assume them to be reps.
Originally, without seeing the back, I thought this was a gen dial. But the back looks new/aftermarket.
Like Ubi, I also used a ft 1st in my pre-Comex, but the cross in the t should be a bit higher than the cross in the f for a pre-Comex (at least that is the way they are on the 2 gens that I am aware of), which this dial does not have.
To make a reasonably accurate Newman would require expertise, time & money (mostly for r&d). Some years ago, on behalf of DW, I posted a thread asking whether people would be willing to pay several hundred $ for a 62xx. This was based on a DW 6263 that I had modded, which DW was considering copying for sale. Unfortunately, at the time, DW felt there was insufficient interest to make such a project profitable.
Vintage is more my thing, but if you are sure something is not working the way it is supposed to (& it is not pilot error), you should begin by asking the seller what you should do.
Ditto all of the above.
I think you need to spend some time researching the specific model you are interested in. There are a number of good Rolex books, not to mention pics on gen sites as well as google that you can compare reps to.