freddy333

Akira - I agree with most of your comments, but I think you need to sharpen the edges of your relume & swap some of the (convex) bumps for (concave) dimples. Also, make sure that whatever you use does not glow, or, if it glows, it glows VERY dimly & fades quickly (within seconds). Otherwise, although there are a small number of notable exceptions, a bright glow on a 50+ year old dial is always a dead give-away of man-made 'dabbling'.

Love it. Well done.

Just past midnight & wearing my Sub

Wearing my steel '39 today

Depending on the case style, there are 3 variations of these screws. Rolex part numbers 6973 (flat head, 0.25mm), 6973-1 (flat head, 0.35mm) or 6974 (beveled head). However, there is nothing special about these screws, so you can use generic case screws of the same type, which can be sourced from most watch parts sellers. Alternatively, you can probably source 1 from a local watchmaker.

I, too, have had dealings with Steve, all of which were positive. I hope & assume this will turn out better than it now sounds.

As always, it is worth whatever a buyer is willing to pay for it.

Every Rolex watch model has a unique model number. The 1680 is model number of a Submariner (diver's) watch with date Current values average between $5k-$7k, depending on factors like age, condition & provenance.

Get yourself a genuine Triplock & you will get the nod.

The seller is Italian, with low number of previous Rolex sales, pics are small & unfocussed, dial is new/aftermarket & I would be surprised if the movement is complete, all-gen & fully functional. & there will likely be alot of sniping before the auction closes. Buyer beware.

Not sure what I will wear yet, but probably 1 of these today

I would recommend that you search the Rolex forum for others' experiences with pre-assembled franken Subs before buying anything. After you know what you are getting into, check out J&W or NDT.

People have been using faked repair receipts to foil customs for years, but I would avoid attaching high values to shipped watches. They simply attract the attention of thieves & encourage theft. &, anyway, if your package gets lost/stolen/damaged, the process required to make a claim is so complicated & lengthy that it really is not worth the effort. Best ship only when you have to, describe the item as damaged or sent for repair & limit the declared value to $25 or less.

Made it to mid-week still wearing my '41

It is generally accepted that non-Oyster (pump) pusher 62xx Daytonas have small recesses in their case to accommodate the pusher's cap when depressed. However, once or twice in the years since I have been collecting, I have seen verified, non-modded 6239/6241 (non-Oyster) gens with the larger Oyster-style recesses. Unfortunately, since I began collecting Rolex pics in the late 90s, I have not come across any more of them. Well, at least not until today. I just received my Christies 'Lesson One' auction catalog from Nov 10 &, to my great (& pleasant) surprise, there, on pages 50-51, is a 14K Paul Newman 6241 with those wide, Oyster-style pusher recesses. As I recall, this watch ultimately sold for close to its max estimate (~$170k) Therefore, my concerns about Goldie's case are now relieved

Ditto, cc.

Still wearing my '41

Why not source a 1215, which is a manual, dated movement & correct for your case? They are not too expensive ($400-$500+) & pop up from time to time. Check ebay & some of the gen sites

Well done.

The hand may be coming into contact with the underside of the crystal or something on the dial. Decase the movement & see if it still stops at the same spot. If not, the problem is inside the case. You might want to check this out.