freddy333

Looks like a Yuki to me, too.

Wearing my freckled (& slightly radioactive) OPD today

Unfortunately, I cannot (easily) remove 1 to show its shape, but both bends need to be clean right-angles & we did a bit of heating. But I will try a feeler gauge when I have more time to experiment just to cover all the bases.

We tried a number of springy metals, but they always broke when bent. I will give a feeler gauge a try. Thanks.

I am not sure I see what the problem is? The original xtals fitted to gen 5513s tend to vary in shape

My experience with MQ has been pretty consistent & I have always received exactly what was in the QC pics he sent prior to shipment. You did request QC pics? Phong & NDT are the worst offenders when it comes to receiving something different than what you saw on their websites. Phong, especially, has repeatedly sent me items that did not even match his QC pics. & at his crazy prices, that is something to consider, seriously, when searching for parts.

Regardless of the 'rules, you should always give the other party at least 2 weeks from the time of your last communication (& do not bombard them with repeated messages - that is the quickest way to become a nuisance & get ignored - remember, people have offline lives) before considering a PP dispute. Then, after waiting 2 weeks, send 1 final email warning that if you do not receive a response with 48 hours, you will open a PP dispute. That usually gets the other party's attention. If not, then they deserve to deal with PP.

Adding to Alligoat's comments, the bridles on the pillar plate are supposed to align with the grooves that run along the inner case walls as you can see here The problem is that, on most aftermarket V72 Daytona cases, the grooves are either too high, causing the bridle screws to come into contact with the caseback &/or the dial a bit too far away from the case opening, or too low, making it difficult (often impossible) to vertically align the bridle in the groove. In the latter case, you are kind of screwed because, apparently, no one makes a bridle in the required shape. So you pretty much have to manufacture a custom, z-shaped bridle that makes a right-angle down the side of the pillar plate & then another right-angle into the lower case groove. Both I & Ziggy have spent quite a bit of time trying to make a bunch of bridles that fit, but, unfortunately, nearly all of them break when bent sufficient to accomplish their purpose. Because of this, 2 of my Daytonas have their movements held in the case by 1 (weak) z-shaped bridle. Oh, & just getting the bridle in there is quite a chore, making the idea of removal something you must think twice about before attempting. Actually, the early DW cases had the grooves positioned almost perfectly. But there were 2 problems with those cases - the lug engravings were laser etched (they are always engraved on gens) & the cases had deep/wide cut-outs for screw-down pushers, which ID'd them as Oysters (not a problem if you are doing a 6263 or other Oyster 62xx Daytona model).

I would get a gen folded or rivet bracelet to top it off right.

umairarif - You might want to check with a local postal inspector to see if you can register a complaint about a stolen replica watch since the mail was used in the commission of a crime. As to the other party, if you can provide a direct link to a thread containing your communication with the member, we will look into closing his account. Beyond that, RWG staff do not get involved in private transactions between members.

Ditto

If I was going to upgrade to a V8, I would probably have gone with a Ford or Chevy engine, which are cheap/powerful, produce a great growl & are a popular mod for Zs. But, since the last thing I would do with a restored classic (non-race car) is drive it aggressively, the issue is all academic.

Not to hijack this thread too much, but when I rebuilt the motor a few months ago, I considered swapping it out for a small block V8. But, ultimately, decided to keep the car stock to maintain its value.

Seller is generally reliable, but I would ask the reason for selling a case by itself (what happened to the rest of the watch) & request better pics before (larger) hitting the buy button.

Looks like a clever solution.

1st time I have seen this, but I stand corrected.

A silver date wheel in a 1675 is still news to me.

Your hard work shows, especially on the case work. But a few issues stick out - The bezel is too large for the case. It partially covers the crown/CGs, which looks wrong. I get the effect you are going for with the missing hour markers, but I am not generally a fan of the way you went about it. If you really want that look, I think you should remove all the lume or leave it all on. The effect here looks 'manufactured', if you know what I mean. It may be the pics (you need a camera with a macro function), but the datewheel looks silver, which, to the best of my knowledge, was never used in a GMT.

Euno - Wow (& nice to see you again)!

I replaced the standard 65w halogen headlight bulbs with 75w (off-road racing) rallye bulbs (which produce a whiter, longer beam), & added an auxiliary input jack to the radio so I can play my ipod. Otherwise, all stock. I do not mod my cars.

Stampings aside, always buy the seller 1st, & nothing about that sale/seller inspires confidence. In fact, everything points in the opposite direction. But your experience may vary. I was not aware that DW was selling modded movements, but you may know something that I do not. The ZX's color is Mahogany, which was 1 of the original, standard color options (fyi - Paul Newman raced a ZX &, separately, owned the same car (& in the same color), but opted for the removable T-top) (my car) (my car)

Difficult to see/photograph, but the etched crown contains an S -