freddy333

It is generally accepted that non-Oyster (pump) pusher 62xx Daytonas have small recesses in their case to accommodate the pusher's cap when depressed. However, once or twice in the years since I have been collecting, I have seen verified, non-modded 6239/6241 (non-Oyster) gens with the larger Oyster-style recesses. Unfortunately, since I began collecting Rolex pics in the late 90s, I have not come across any more of them. Well, at least not until today. I just received my Christies 'Lesson One' auction catalog from Nov 10 &, to my great (& pleasant) surprise, there, on pages 50-51, is a 14K Paul Newman 6241 with those wide, Oyster-style pusher recesses. As I recall, this watch ultimately sold for close to its max estimate (~$170k) Therefore, my concerns about Goldie's case are now relieved

Ditto, cc.

Still wearing my '41

Why not source a 1215, which is a manual, dated movement & correct for your case? They are not too expensive ($400-$500+) & pop up from time to time. Check ebay & some of the gen sites

Well done.

The hand may be coming into contact with the underside of the crystal or something on the dial. Decase the movement & see if it still stops at the same spot. If not, the problem is inside the case. You might want to check this out.

I do not know what a 'setting level jumber' is or what type of 'adjustments' you are making to it (as far as I know, there are no adjustments required for 7750 keyless works), but if the stem keeps falling out, either you are not fully seating the stem or the set lever may be bent or out of position.

The 7750 has 2 side-mounted clips (in the red circles) that pivot in/out to lock/unlock the dial feet in the pillar (main) plate. With a small pin, tweezer or flat blade, gently rotate the clip out away from the movement to free each of the feet & the dial will then come off (make sure you remove the hands 1st).

As others have said, best to stick with steel & lose the 'gems'. On a woman, if you go with a gen (genuine) watch, the gold is solid, the gems are real & the quality is Rolex. (I do not like jewels on anyone's watch, but many woman prefer them.) But, on reps, the 'gold', regardless of the seller's sales hyperbole, is flashed (and thinly) with odd tints, the 'gems' look like glass (because they often are) or cheap CZ & there is little or no quality control. So, often with weeks or a few months, the gold rubs off, leaving the underlying steel showing through, the gems break or fall out..............well, you get the idea. As most learn early on, if you want to wear a convincingly real Rolex, either get a gen or stick with plain, all-steel models with as few features as possible. Something like a steel lady's Datejust would be smashing & much less likely to be identified as a rep. Josh is 1 of the better dealers & he offers alot of nice reps. But I would encourage you to read Toad's Newbie guide, which is pinned atop the Intro forum, before clicking the buy button for any rep.

All week & into the new year

Still wearing my beater

Just past midnight & still wearing my trusty beater

I would worry that it would get torn off during the ride and I would not find out until I returned home. Nothing worse than losing a finger in the snow (happens to me all the time).

Ending the work week wearing my beater

Ditto & I would love to see 2-3 good, clear macro pics of that.

Personally, while I appreciate the 116xxx series of Daytona (& have no plans to sell mine, so do not ask), I have come to find them too large & blingy for daily wear. That said, if they are your cup of tea, I would opt for an early 116520 because they were produced without the ROLEXROLEXROLEX engraving on the flange on the case that runs perpendicular to the dial.Alternatively, for a bit less bling (still essentially the same size), try the previous (modified) Zenith-powered 16520. As for reps, search out By-Tor's brilliant review of the 116520 rep &/or my perfect Daytona thread, & be aware of the inherent mechanical issues of the secs @ 6 7750 that powers the best modern Daytona reps.

Exactly.

Once you understand that the spring slips into the groove on the case (the area surrounding the crystal), you just have to carefully work the spring back into the groove while pressing the bezel back down. Sometimes, a bit of slight bezel rocking helps to keep the spring in place on 1 side while you press down the other side. But there is really no trick to fitting it back on. It just takes patience & practice.

I believe Buckley dials appeared in the 80s (160xx series) & are somewhat more collectible than standard DJs, hence the higher value.