freddy333

Joshua is 1 of the best. He is generally quick, reliable & has a good selection. That said, before buying a secs @ 6 Daytona from anyone, I would strongly recommend that you use the Search to educate yourself on the reliability issues that plague these movements. There are many threads discussing these that you can easily locate via the Search.

If the item is not as described, all you need to do is refer the item to ebay support & they will investigate &, if it turns out to be a scam, remove it.

I am sorry to hear of your bad luck with MQ. All of my purchases from him have been both positive & exact analogs of his online descriptions.

There are really only 2 things that would cause a caseback not to fit a particular case - either the threads are damaged/defective or they vary in their threading. In either case, unless you have access to the appropriate tap/die or a machine shop, I do not know of any way to correct this. So, unless there is a detail I am missing, returning to the seller is about your only option.

That red SD is still a beauty & I would much rather watch it than the SB.

Ditto.

I like the composition, but you need to work on getting the dial in focus.

I really want to share in your enthusiasm for this, but it just has too many problems. For starters, the dial (which looks like 1 of J&W's), especially in such a mythic (or, possibly, fantasy) model is just wrong. The coronet looks like it was carved (not too successfully) by hand, the subdials are too small & spacing is off, the fonts are wrong (most notably the 3 in the minute counter). The xtal is either not fully seated or is aftermarket (looks too tall, but could simply be a visual anomaly), the crown looks aftermarket, the chrono seconds hand is black (should match the hour/minute hands) & the clasp looks fake. Here is a gen for reference

Looking good & a nice choice for a 1st rep.

Experiment with various pointed objects to 'prick' the surface to replicate the tiny dimples (originally air bubbles that popped).

Akira - I agree with most of your comments, but I think you need to sharpen the edges of your relume & swap some of the (convex) bumps for (concave) dimples. Also, make sure that whatever you use does not glow, or, if it glows, it glows VERY dimly & fades quickly (within seconds). Otherwise, although there are a small number of notable exceptions, a bright glow on a 50+ year old dial is always a dead give-away of man-made 'dabbling'.

Love it. Well done.

Just past midnight & wearing my Sub

Wearing my steel '39 today

Depending on the case style, there are 3 variations of these screws. Rolex part numbers 6973 (flat head, 0.25mm), 6973-1 (flat head, 0.35mm) or 6974 (beveled head). However, there is nothing special about these screws, so you can use generic case screws of the same type, which can be sourced from most watch parts sellers. Alternatively, you can probably source 1 from a local watchmaker.

I, too, have had dealings with Steve, all of which were positive. I hope & assume this will turn out better than it now sounds.

As always, it is worth whatever a buyer is willing to pay for it.

Every Rolex watch model has a unique model number. The 1680 is model number of a Submariner (diver's) watch with date Current values average between $5k-$7k, depending on factors like age, condition & provenance.

Get yourself a genuine Triplock & you will get the nod.

The seller is Italian, with low number of previous Rolex sales, pics are small & unfocussed, dial is new/aftermarket & I would be surprised if the movement is complete, all-gen & fully functional. & there will likely be alot of sniping before the auction closes. Buyer beware.