RobbieG

Well it is really a matter of personal preference. I am of the opinion that lower beat rates are more robust movements and I'm kind of old school about that. I'm the biggest fan of all the old 18k beat stuff like my favorite manual wind chrono, the Lemania 2310. And yes, the 1185 is my favorite self winding chronograph movement partly because it doesn't get any bigger by adding the auto module. It is pretty much the same thickness as a 2310 and it is an auto! And 21.6k is a nice balance in between the bulletproof nature of the 18k movements and the standard 28.8k movements IMO. The Zenith stuff are 36k which is just the complete other end of the spectrum. The idea being that the faster the rate the more accurate the movement will be out of the box. Adjustments are generally made my effectively shortening or lengthening the hairspring. It is generally understood that lower beat movement require more skill to adjust as those adjustments really need to start at the balance which requires much more skill, hence why you tend to see them only in expensive watches nowadays. Indexing isn't going to get you all the way there with a slower rate and smaller balance found in wristwatches. Back in the pocketwatch days, 18k movements were fine with that in that they had really large balances which as size goes up those adjustments more readily come into line as it would be more accurate to begin with all things being equal. As an aside, people just generally accepting that 28.8k movements and higher being uniformly superior is unfounded. A rumor started by Rolex no doubt. LOL. Higher beat rates have more torque and friction and as such have shorter service intervals and it is more critical that they be properly lubricated or they will break. The Zenith's at 36k it becomes even more critical. If one allows one of those to slip and be neglected it can be disasterous. There is just a lot of torque and friction in those. But accurate? Absolutely, and without much adjustment other than very fine hairpring moves ever being required. AP, VC, PP, ALS, RD, G&F, FPJ - all the old masters strive to build 21.6k or 18k movements in house and use ebauches of that kind as well. Whereas Rolex, GO, JLC, ETA all mostly stick with the 28.8k side. The "slow" proponents all feel that these movements are more timeless in design, will last longer, and when the required skill is applied can be as accurate as the 28.8k and 36k counterparts. That is why you hear about all the striving in design to be sure to draw torgue from the middle of the curve for consistent power and you see all differnt variations on the screw balance concept on them as well. Trying to get the balance and power source in perfect sync and then it will be accurate. In this way the masters show their skills, wheras the "fast" camp don't have to spend the time and money and they are accurate out of the box pretty much, but they tend to have more service related problems. For some of them that is a pain in the butt warranty wise and in not being able to find enough service techs. Then again, some of them have turned that service need into a whole other profit center - like Rolex has. Just two schools of thought really. Both are excellent in their own way.

Ahhh, I wondered about that. I mean obviously gen guys don't apply it by hand. Would you mind explaining how a typical machine process applies the stuff? It seems like it could be just as difficult to get a machine process right as it is by hand in a way.

Hey, congrats Ammandel you got it huh? Nice piece. These Breitling superreps are just off the charts nice - all of them. Are you glad you didn't buy the gen now?

Been slacking on the wristchecks lately. Aquatimer today...

Looks great R. Two things: - I wonder what doing the minute hand in red might look like. Kinda like an IWC vibe - like my Ti Aquatimer? - Second, that is weird about the consistemcy of the lume. Have you talked to RC about it? Is there some reason that it absolutely must be that way in other words? The reason being is that if you can't do it perfect none of their other customers can either and what is the point of having a product out there that can never be right. Don't get me wrong, I think it looks great and totally fine, but as you point out not perfect in an industry thriving on perfection. Just curious... Man what a great look though. I've seen some stealth sandwich PAM's homage watches before, but something about that lume in the sausage configuration makes it all the more sexy... We need someone to do some photoshop experiments with putting different colors on the various hand locations now and have a poll...

And are you sure it had a rotating bezel like on the MMD, because if so it is defintely a fantasy piece. There are a few white dial 1846 line watches, but not of the dive variety...

White dial, black bezel? I'm confused. There is no such MMD. Does he mean silver dial (which is very light) and steel bezel? Other than those, there are the new 45MM Maxi Divers which just came out - one of which has a silver dial and a partially black bezel... They are polished titanium cases and have a waved themed dial and strap. Not really my favorite, but in person they are really nice. Light as a feather but they wear VERY big. To some they may like that, but trust me, I have a 7.5" wrist and the 42.7MM of the original MMD wears like 44MM due to the thin bezel relative to dial size and layout. It is as big as you would want. In fact the original 40MM MD wears about like 41.5MM for the same reason. Anyway, I suppose this is as good a place as any to post the new 45MM line. Two in polished ti. Two in two tone polished Ti and rose gold. Each with a silver and a black dial version. Note that the all Ti versions both have the partial orange bezel... ...and a couple more views from the flank and rear. The latter showing the all new ruthenium rotor with a cool steely grey color to pick up the Ti elements. Personally though I think the designs would have been better if they used polished Ti elements in the strap to match the case. They don't really go and I never understood those on the original MMD either. The gold elements work on the gold watch. The WG elements worked on that special edition. But the Ti goes with nothing. They should have just done SS elements on the steel watches so it matches the brushed elements of the case. On these ones it is closer but the polished Ti is a different color. There is no need to save that weight by using Ti there. It is inside the clasp elements to keep them from bending and that is all it needs. I also feel the wave pattern in both the strap and the dial is overkill. It will grow on you like all their wackier stuff does but I still think one or the other is the move. I feel the same way about the predecesor to these which are the latest Blue Wave limiteds. Just my .02 on those items.

-So the young punks don't dare surf Portlock? It aint that tough unless it gets real big but then it closes out anyway. It is perfect at 3-5 though. -And Hula's moved. Bob Magoon still alive? The original rich queen. But he owned that whole block and all those restaurants - Hamburger Mary's, Hernando's Hideway (bada*s chicken chimichangas remember?). I would have figured he would be there for ever. Nice old guy though. But man, that place was like the Birdcage walking by huh? They never bothered anyone but that whole block with the mahus working the streets too. Culture shock. It was always funny to be walking by and you would always see some tourist girls checking it out or thinking of having dinner or lunch at Mary's and then get all embarassed when they realized it was a gay restaurant. Then they realized the whole block was gay. Right in the middle of Waiks too. -We all coexisted. When I lived in town, I lived a block up from there and walked past everyday to go open up the "office" at the Powerstation. Then wait for the staff to show, then hit the beach at the low key unofficial ticket selling headquarters - hanging on the beached outriggers and surf gear in front of Davy Jones Locker. With permission from Biggy of course who allowed me to be there - earned - RESPECT brah, which a lot of people on here I can think of could use to learn some of. You know what I mean too. For a Haole guy like me to have permission to operate out of THAT spot from The Beach Boyz was a really big deal in those days. You have to earn a lot of respect to be there, and I did man. -Funny story - one of legend at the time. It was so big at the time you may have even heard of it. One night Biggy was drunk out of his mind and decided he was mad at me for no reason. He was just glazed. Had no idea where he was and I could tell. Sometimes with the real pure blodded Hawaiians liquor is like poison or something. Saw that alot - weird. Anyway, so I'm signing up these 4 chicks right in front of International and he comes up behind me and grabs me by the fat on the back of my arm and pulls me into his chest holding me tight. He was just kidding and messing with me at first and I'm going, Biggy let me go brah you are hurting me. I mean the guy is 6'4", 320 and I'm 5'8" 140 and he is just mauling me. So it escalates and he just starts going crazy saying he is going to hold me forever and then starts insulting me telling me I don't belong and I am not allowed on his beach anymore cause he doesn't like me anymore and everything. By this point the girls are freaking and I'm trying to keep them from leaving because they are hot and I want them at my party and Biggy won't let go and there is now a crowd of a hundred tourists all gathered around and Big has taken over the whole sidewalk just holding my arm which is now numb from the pain. He is walking me around stuck to his chest like I'm stapled there like a rag doll. So like 10 minutes goes by, or maybe less - seemed like it though and cops start showing up until there are like 5 trikes and 2 cars and the whole intersection on Kala is closed - literally. Biggy has me in the street now. Hammered out if his mind even more now and babbling about how I'm barred from the beach for life and all. The cops kept asking him to let me go and he wouldn't and they actually started to draw down on him. And that made him even more mad. Like some freak of nature his girl shows up out of nowhere and tells him Big, that's Robbie let him go and in an instant he does. The cops all pile on him right away and cuff him. My arm is just shredded. Just this huge red mess with all bleeding inside and all. So one cop starts filling out paperwork and asks me to sign the complaint to press charges and I wouldn't do it. They were shocked and [censored] and I wouldn't give in. They were like, this guy just assaulted you. I said I didn't care cause he was my friend and drunk and I wasn't gonna do it. They had to let him go. The next day he brought me a case of beer and apologized to no end. He was crushed. Just so embarassed. I drank the case with him and my guys right there at the spot like it never happened. From then on he had my back even more. Once some Fasi gang kids pulled knives on me and my partner on the beach and tried to jack us up. Biggy and da boys came out of nowhere and cracked two of their heads together like they were ragdolls, winked and kept on strolling. That is how it was in the day. We all respected each other and had each others backs no matter what. That is what I mean when I say earned respect. It means you have to roll with some toughness now and then but in the end you side with the homeboy not the cops cause you got a hurt arm. Nuf said... -Oh and I didn't live in those condos across Kaisers - a girl I dated did though. I lived back in the valley on Aipo Street when I lived Hawaii Kai side. -Moose McGillicuddy's still there? And what about that cool Mexican themed bar that had those great Margies and Coronas specials right across the street on Lewars - kind of caddy corner - on the North side of Kala and Lewars before Kuhio?

You have no idea. I urge everyone to get to an AD just to check out the bracelet on an MMD. The problem is the rubber is more in right now and a bigger seller and cheaper so AD's tend to have more of those around. But if you can find a stocked bracelet it will blow your mind. Liek nothing you have ever seen quality wise. The multi link Dual Time bracelets are pure luxury too. Personally, I don't care for the way the watch looks compared to on leather but again, mind blowing. Even more comfortable and delicate as opposed to beefy, but maybe even more amazing from a finishe perspective. All polished on both sides and literally feels like silk on the wrist. Imagine a modern DJ Jubilee bracelet. The new style with the polished center links and Rolesor clasp. Liek that kind of feel but just beyond the beyond of nice. If they do a bracelet (which it is hard to say if they will really as the rubber is already done perfectly), it will be interesting to see how good they rep it and if they nail the feel. Maybe someone will send me one for review or something as I won't be buying one obviously - or maybe I will to give away or something. Anyway, I'm with you guys. I can't wait. I'm still waiting for my RWG Ulysse Nardin official ambassador desk plaque but it didn't come yet - hint, hint... BTW, my UN guide for the forum is almost done guys. It is a general historical and technical primer for the brand in the hopes that it will generate more interest in the brand and as such more reps for you guys due to the factories and dealers seeing ravenous interest. I'm sure you all noticed by now, but I am trying really hard with alot of posts to try and make the brand a going concern so you can have more reps of it due to the factories seeing the money sitting there...

The last thing we need around here is more of me. Just ask my fanclub. Jake is the president. But seriously, which dial was the 1:1? I wonder if it is the Blue Wave Hont supposedly had or something else - black maybe? One thing is for sure, Phoband and I were joking at the GTG that like 3 different dealers all claimed to have purchased and contributed the alpha 1:1 for this rep. Now we will see who was telling the truth. Something tells me it won't be surprising...

Thanks man. Don't forget the ole stomping grounds - Sandy's, Hawaii Kai - Koko Head Shopping Center where I lived just across from the high school, Portlock point surfing (the secret spot), the old World's spot, maybe even Waianae if you are ever out that side - I lived in Makaha and North Shore of course - all the old spots if you get up there. Man this is gonna be fun - Powerstation, Platinum's, Wave, The Bird, The Cellar. Man you are bringing up all these thoughts. Selling tickets on Lewars on the corner the center of the Universe of the North West side of Waiks. So may spots...

Sorry dude! And congrats, man that looks great. Just do a pearl like Lani's and you will be set now. It isn't the shape of it on the UPO as much as the green color that messes with the look. And see the attached pic. You do want to shave it down a bit so it is recessed. As you can see the gen is recessed quite a bit which is really noticable believe it or not at a distance. Anyway, I always say that the only reason I ever bought the gen 42MM was because there wasn't a great version in that size and/or I didn't want to bother with all the mods on the big size. When I see yours, D's, Lani's, etc. it is no doubt clear that you have pretty much the gen watch there when finished for about a quarter to a third of the gen cost or less. The Planet Ocean is such a simple piece and even then gen is very reasonable for what it is. A well made and extremely versatile watch! Here is the pic to use as a guide for recessing the pearl. You want to mill the top of it so it is concave, not convex:

Pro-Hunter is an aftermarket company who buys gen Rolex watches, does these mods including dial reprinting and resells them for a healthy profit. They are being repped now as well. Kind of a rep of a franken I suppose then? http://www.discoverprohunter.com/concept/

Hahaha, yeah that is the place I went to! I called it getting my "Get out of the 80's free card". Man this is great you are bringing up all these places and memories. I don't know how I can ever repay you. PS: You might have to try add a snapshot of the clinic as well!

Also, you might try searching around the movement number with the Longines name and 60's or 70's in the criteria as well and see what you come up with. I have not seen another moonphase complication with that movement myself though. Maybe some other members here can shed some light...

Trish? Oh noooo, not another one. I don't know who was first man. I can't even go there. All I know is I passed the 80's via blood tests with flying colors. I was scared for a while there though. It was mayhem with the chicks those days. Life was good.

Right on brah. Mahalo. It has been great reconnecting with my home. What a small world to know we actaully pretty much knew each other and didn't know it. How many times I might have shook hands or thrown chaka or whatever at BO or SB or somewhere out with BM or Sole' Shay or whoever. Howz that?

Sorry, I figured it was worth the extra post time though to illustrate the serious "me" complex we have going on lately around here. Some things never change. It us extra hard on me because I don't get it. I have been everywhere on the socioeconomic scale including homeless myself and at no time did I begrudge another man having wealth or questioning if he deserves to have it. He negotiates a deal and whoever agrees to it, don't cry foul when you like the way things are going. To the contrary, I was always rooting for the baron of industry because they are usually smarter than the next guy and I like to learn things myself so I treat them as mentors, not villians. I was always looking for ways to prop up rich people instead. I figure they know something I don't. While others are trying to figure out how to take his shine down, I was always the guy trying to figure out how to get a lunch meeting with him in the hopes that either I could learn something from him or maybe even he would think I was smart enough to give me access to some of his money. Worst case scenario would be I would get a new friend which would be fine too. The truth is that is how I got to the modest spot of being able to make a good and consistent living at what I do. What the average person usually doesn't understand (and they should seeing that they are so looking out for the "me" lately) is that the best and easiest way to get rich yourself is to figure out a way to make rich people MORE money than they already have, not less. The less money the rich have in this country, given the way the free market system works, the worse off poor people are going to be. And that my friends is the true paradox of it all.

I'm speechless about this stuff lately. Mostly because I'm baffled at how many Americans have no idea that all their ideals and everything they have is a result of the free market as opposed to democracy. They think they are the same thing. Wow. But even more disturbing is the number of armchair socialists that live here who also have no idea they are socialists and condemn the same ideas when presented differently in a different country. Here is what about sums up the view which is growing at a rate faster than the speed of the freefall of life as we know it: - When things are good for me there is no reason to discuss anything. What do I care after all? I blindly put money in my 401k since the burst bubble of the internet boom and I was way up. Besides, why should I make an effort to understand the markets I invest in? I'm no different than anyone else. It is up to my government to make sure I don't lose money. -Wait, I'm losing money now, how can that happen? Who can we get to pay me back for this? Life isn't fair. Why should I be responsible for my own money unless I'm making it? If I'm losing it someone else should be responsible. That is how it should work really. If I'm up leave me alone, I know what I'm doing. If I'm down, help me, can't you see I need you? What is wrong with you Wall Street guys? Crooks I tell ya. Crooks. - But my portfolio is down. Wait, so you are telling me that when markets go up and down everybody isn't winning or losing? You are kidding me, so If I'm making money it means somebody was losing money by selling what I was buying and it kept going up. Wow, I had no idea. But back to me which is what is really important after all...I don't care that if I lost it means somebody else won. Good for them? Fu*k no! I lost and that is all that matters. Somebody figure out how to make me whole again. - The guy who won when I lost - is he rich? See, I thought so. Always the rich doing the poor ugly. We need more equality in net worth in this country. That is what the problem is. Make him give it back, there is no reason for RobbieG to have all that money. F*ck him - I need it more than him so it is only right he should give it to me, or at least feel bad that he has it and I don't. - Huh, what do you mean that would be socialism? I have no idea what you are talking about. Now shut up and figure out a way for me to get my money back... Rinse, repeat.

Word. Holla. UN gangstas in the house YO...

You are not wrong about WG typically being rhodium plated, but PT isn't really much like steel though. It is much lighter and whiter really. I suppose you could say 904 steel is closest to it of the available variants of steel. That is why modern gen Rolex cases and bracelets are so beautiful and shiny (if that is what you like there is no steel better). It's the whiteness of the 904 that does that. 316 is very different. Hard to see in pictures but in real world lighting conditions if you had the two side by side it would blow your mind. For those that prefer, unpolished 950PT will age to a really nice soft matte patina that is not grey as some say but really unique, like a powdery white/silver. Platinum is really cool and unique stuff. More trivia that will blow you mind as to the density and malleability of 950: A single gram of PT can be drawn and formed into a barely visible thin strand without interuption to a length of more than one mile. That's 5280ft boys...

Yup, all too common unfortunately. Look what PAM does with ETA. Fantastic. Some really great examples of how nice a 7750 can be. And they are just so tough if properly serviced and cared for.

Sorry, I hit the wrong button so to anyone reading, I finished what I was writing in the last thread. And yes Shundi, I missed what you said earlier but I think the 2894 is superior to the 7750 as well. It is just more interesting and affords so many more options. Plus it has the cooler looking Tricompax as default and visually I like the seconds at 3 as it is easier to read and different. A nice change of pace as it seems pretty much every under ten grand chrono has the 7750 with the standard layout. It is cool too that it doesn't have to be a chrono if it doesn't want to. I once saw a watch (forget what it was now) that only had seconds at three and date at 6 with no chrono. Different and cool as such. Oh and none of the 7750 quirks either - That weird winding sound and feel, grinding rotor, etc. It has that luxurious 2892 "invisible" winding touch and no rotor noise to speak of. In short, I like that it is a 2892 really with different functions which I feel is the best ETA (modern I mean) has ever made hands down. Don't forget the 2892 also comes in a perpetual calendar (2891).

Well JLC is a Richmont brand, hence the mud slinging between them and Lemania/Piguet which are Breguet Group (Swatch) and ETA being independent of Breguet but still Swatch of course. That is the part that really baffles me. That Swatch doesn't do a better job of propping up the brand via letting people know that they also make Piguet and Lemania and they worship them. In other words, how are you pikers slagging Swatch and then all up on a high horse about how great Lemania is. I mean don't get me wrong, I don't blindly follow ETA as uniformly amazing, I'm just trying to give everyone credit. He*l, as far as that goes the A7750 should get credit too. The thing is great as long as it has the dust blown out and some f'n oil in it... Look I believe all of them have their own standouts. The 2892 is amazing and such a complete ebauche system from ETA, the 2310/20 is the best column wheel chrono ever (OK, the Lange 951 is right there too of course!), The Piguet 1185 is amazing and iconic and slim, and on and on. I just don't think there is any real pecking order. Just like watch brands and how Patek and Lange and AP and VC fans all want to say their fav is the best and they cite all these reasons and so on. But they always leave something out. The bottom line is they couldn't tell the difference. Hardly any of them. Here is my proposed test for the small minds we are speaking about here: They pick whoever they think is the best high end manufactory - any one will do. The I'll pick one movement from each ebauche manufactory, TAKE THE ROTOR and any tell tale markings off, then have the company finish the movement off by exactly the same standard they do for anything (chamfered bridges, perlage, Cotes de Geneve, circular graning on barrels, solarization on wheels, etc.) and I'll bet 90% any amount that they couldn't tell the ETA from the JLC or Piguet or Lemania. Nor could they tell if we let them take it apart and look at each level with a loupe. They are only going to see high quality parts and world class finish and could't pick what they say is superior for all the money in Switzerland. No doubt in my mind.

Agreed. If nothing else they make great props for pics, but it does show care of the manufactory too. It is cool to know your movement was treated as its own entity and made its own journey to La Chaux-de-Fonds and only 3% of the worlds production ever do. An exclusive club of sorts. Who cares about the rate really as it isn't permanent or anything. It is about care (and caring), which is the whole deal in any fine goods if you ask me...