panerai153

Freddy, you are right, I didn't even notice the seconds hand was half there!! At any rate, I'm after an all silver, not a Panda. I don't like the way the Panda dial looks with the smooth bezel. I suppose your eye/brain gets trained to make certain connections after looking at things for umpteen years. I always associate the Panda dial with the metal or black plastic tachymeter bezel. I suppose the all silver dial looks more like the earlier Rolex Chronographs to me. I think it's a very elegant looking watch, that could be worn as a dress watch with a nice Alligator strap or a bracelet for everyday.

unfortunately, the tropic dial doesn't go with this case. This is the Pre-Daytona which doesn't have a tachymeter bezel. I already have a box full of dark dial watches, I would like another light dial on this one.theere wasa panda option called the 6239, but to me it doesn't look right with the smooth bezel As you can see the Panda dial doesn't have the scale around the dial like the silver. Possibly by the time this version came out, Rolex was already planning to introduce the Daytona with the tachymeter bezel

I think I need to be locked up!! Every time I think I'm finished for a while, I come across something else that strikes my fancy. Although I have owned a genuine late 70's era genuine Daytona (Panda dial) as well as a couple of reps, they have never stuck. I have always thought that the reason was a combination of no date and manual wind. Probably the same reason the early Daytona's were such slow sellers. Rolex was basically swimming upstream against a strong current of automatic watches with dates, plus quartz thrown in as a wild card. As valuable as Daytonas are today, they were really slow sellers back in the manual wind era. Well that's enough of my Daytona story, back to today. I just purchased a DW case set from one of our good members here, no dial or movement, I also purchased a Swiss ETA 7750 movement to make the little baby tick. The seller is including a set of hands, so basically what I need is a good dial. As you experts know, the 6238 or Pre-Daytona came with a smooth bezel, and primarily offered with a silver dial with subdials the same. It was offered as a 6239 with a white Panda dial no Daytona script. much rarer I'm told was a black dial version. I would like to build the silver dial version, as it would make a nice dressier watch on a strap, or on a bracelet for everyday. So my question where to find a nice dial? I'm not sure I want to go through all the drama and expense of dealing with Ming Quy, I looked at Phong's offering, but the coronet looked odd, not any rounding to the sides, looked like it was laser cut out of a piece of flat steel, maybe that's the way this particular dial should look, but I'm not sure. I would appreciate any advice help from you Daytona experts before I jump off the deep end here. thanks

Very well said legend. I have said the same thing although rather less eloquently that you did. It's the man who people look at first, and then the accessories. If you are old enough and look the part, you can pull it off without a missed beat. It's all about perception. our little mini computer between our ears, looks over the situation and from past experience, education, etc. spits out and answer. The fellow wearing the gold Daytona is too young, and not high enough up the employment ladder to afford a 20K+ Daytona, answer It's a fake!! While the passenger who is admittedly wearing a nice franken, obviously fulfills the age, dress, success equation, answer it's a gen!! Unfortunately, in most cases, we have very limited resources to make really valid decisions. The Cabin crew member may very well be single, and frugal, but he saved every penny for a few years to buy the cherished Gold Daytona. Possibly he inherited a nice chunk of money from his late grandmother, we just don't know. What we have to work with is mostly conjecture factored in with our experiences. The truest thing however is that folks could give a damn what you are wearing driving, etc. Most people are too bound up in their own little world, and are trying desperately to keep all their respective "balls in the air" to worry about whether or not your watch is real or fake, even if they could tell the difference in the first place!!

Great news Cats!!! <br />

I believe fake, not so sure about the A4 code either for this model.

Service, not nearly as prominent as the superdome.

Might be a good start to your next project. I see a Big crown on the horizon!!

My watch has been a work in progress for quite a while, it's been superlumed, gen crystal, movement serviced, and now hopefully the gen bezel assembly can be made to fit. The last step would be a CHS movement if and when a newer model that's more durable comes up for sale, either as a movement, or a complete watch. It's very difficult to tell from a photo, but the whole gen assembly looks more robust than the rep. As freddy says, the platinum numbers and hour dots are very noticeable, as are the thicker more distinct numbers. Probably for the average person, it wouldn't be noticeable, but to one who owns or is familiar with a genuine GMTIIC, it's a big tell. My photos don't show it nearly as well as Freddy's photo, but there is a big difference.

Interesting dilemma, you are right though, you are going to have to cut the dial feet to use and ETA movement. Also a DW overlay, because the gen DW opening is not going to line up with an ETA DW. Don't know about the yuki movement, but there was a review on the Rolex forum, possibly you can get some answers from that. Good Luck, sounds like and interesting project.

I figured out the problem. There is an icon top left side hover over it "BBCode Mode" clicked it and everything appears normal now. I have no idea why PM's aren't working. Mine seem to be OK here, couldn't reply to a PM over on the Rolex forum yesterday though.

No matter what you do, I looks like it's going to need a service before being put to use. So if you decide to sell, you would need to either have it serviced, or discount it some to factor in a service.

Did that ,Didn't help. New version of Adobe Flash Player, upgraded java, etc.??

I just upgraded to Internet Explorer 10, and when I logged in everything appeared normal. When I tried to reply to a post, The entire upper panel of the post box is light and not functioning, This is the area that contains fonts, size, emoticons, as well as the next line down that contains, bold, underline, etc. Can anyone help me with this? There must be some setting in IE that has changed, I looked at the information on the website, and I can't see any way to "turn on" the top panel. Thanks

I like the one on your Black Bay (last one) also the last one on your 6538 looks really, really good. I had the same problem with some of mine using bleach, some almost never turn at all, others turn within seconds. I have one on my Tudor 7924 that started out Greyish and now looks blue! Great work

I suppose the basic question is ,do you think that you have a future plan for the movement? That is within the foreseeable future. It's not going to spoil, so if you think that you might need it in the future, I would keep it. If you need the funds for something else, or don't feel that you are going to need it later on, then I would sell it. AFA the value, if it's running only +/- 20 seconds, can it be adjusted to closer to COSC specs? And if it can, what does it need to get there. I would not pay as much for a movement that's running +/-20 as I would for a freshly serviced one that was within COSC.

+1 Offshore will help you get started wit the right stuff. He has good quality tools at a good price. As you get further into repairs, overhauls, etc. you may want to upgrade some of your tools, but for a start he's the guy i would go to.

First off as i said above, tracking with any of the postal services is a fantasy. unfortunately, the tracking is included with speedier service. If i send USPS Priority or Express it's automatically "tracked) Ha Ha Ha. When you go down to the next level Parcel post it's not trackable, but it's very slow. that's for domestic packages. Now, the USPS does not offer any International services except international Express mail and International Priority.The old International First Class and Parcel Post are no longer available. International Registered is still available i believe. What varies a lot as well is the ability to insure the package. I always insure my watches, no matter where they are going. IfI sell one, and it's not insured, gets lost, stolen or damaged, the buyer wants either a watch or his money back. that's part of the deal. If I replace the watch or refund his money, now I'm out the cost of a watch and still don't have the watch! So, you can ship on the cheap, but if something happens, be prepared to suffer the loss.

Nice!! What does this one run?

Seconding what alligoat said, I would try to find a TC or a BK build 16610. I had a BK/WM9 16610 and next to my genuine 16610, it was so close that it would take and expert to tell them apart. Mine had a genuine Crown and insert. And in defense of those guys who gave you short answers, your question is asked here on almost a daily basis. At least you joined, paid your dues and want information after reading some. We get a tremendous number of folks who cruise thru here, never join, want all sorts of information about the best this or the best that, they probably buy a watch, and then they disappear never to be heard from again. Both Alligoat have been here since the first or second day this forum started, over 7 years ago. Believe me it gets a little tiresome answering the same questions that could be easily answered with a little research. Welcome aboard!!

I suppose all the interest in the GMTIIC's has gone away

FedEx has lots of ways to ship. The faster you want it to get to you and the heavier it is the more the cost. FedEx has a website, you can go in and figure exactly how much it will cost to ship a package. all you need to know is the weight, the dimensions of the package andd the postal code of the person you are shipping to. I can tell you for sure 150.00 USD is a bunch of horse sh*t, From China to where you are located, in the usual dealer packaging, (soft mailing envelope, no box) It would be about 1/4 to 1/3 that cost. I went to the FedEx website, using my FedEx account, i can have a watch sized package weight 1.0 pounds hong kong to the USA for 68.00 USD. That's why BK can ship for 60.00 USD, he has a shippers account with FedEX. Without the account, the cost is 86.00 USD, a long way from 150.00 !!

Matt told me yesterday that he took a "week off" from watches. He hasn't been around here in a few days, but I'm sure he's probably checking in here every day or two. He will get in touch with you by PM or a post in this thread.

Guys, we have discussed this "ad nauseum" on the general discussion forum for years. it's the same every time. You cannot predict tracking on any package by any of the postal services, period!! They scan some packages, some never get scanned. I got a bezel assembly from Hong kong last week, it tracked like this: Absolutely not one scan from the time it left Hong kong on March 11th until it arrived at my local PO on March18th. Arrival at Unit March 18, 2013, 6:26 am Processed Through Sort Facility March 11, 2013, 10:47 am HONG KONG, HONG KONG Origin Post is Preparing Shipment Acceptance March 08, 2013, 3:16 pm HONG KONG This is what I expect every time I send or receive a package from outside the USA. If you want step by step tracking Use one of the commercial services like FedEx, UPS, DHL, etc. They scan every package at every stop. It's more expensive, but it's really Trackable.

They layer so much stuff over the photo, their website, name,etc., it's really dificult to tell anything about the details/