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dutchguy2

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Everything posted by dutchguy2

  1. Ok, but what kind of fake? Is it a decent reprint like ingod33, yuki or ndt is using? Or is it total crap?
  2. Just bought this red sub dial and it was sold to me as a gen. I noticed a couple of differences to the dials spoken of at the doubleredseadweller page here: http://doubleredseadweller.com/rs1.htm This is what I noticed: 1. Submariner printing is smaller than the depth rating. This would be correct for the first gen dials. 2. the Coronet is correct for a second gen dial but not for a first gen dial! 3. the little minute index markers should end before they hit the hour markers, on my dial the don't, they hit the hour markers. 4. the space between the word ROLEX and the words oyster perpetual date should be bigger than on my dial. 5. The F in Ft should be a short one on the gen 1 dials and a long one on the gen 2 dials. On mine it looks long but this is not correct with the coronet. and if it is short it is not correct with the length of the word submarine! Could it be a service dial?? Help, what is it? Thanks for looking>
  3. Sorry for the confusion but I was indeed referring to the MBW 1680 white dial. Never had the MBW red dial for reference.
  4. It all depends on what you want to spend! Budget base would be PT's 1680. Medium priced base is still the MBK/MBW 1680 Narikaa can source. Premium price base would be Yuki/NT 1680 case. I think they all are a good starting base for a real nice almost 1:1 1680. Advantage the MBW 1680 has is that it already has a decent dial and hands alltough they need a relume.
  5. So, just trimmed down the (sub) bezel a bit to give it more a appearance of a GMT bezel. What you think, shall I go for more trimming? The next step will be crown guard trimming. Thanks for looking.
  6. The gen looks the same as mine (euhh, should be the other way around)
  7. ON my MBW 1680 with 25-127 crystal there is 2.7mm difference between crystal and Bezel insert.
  8. Yes, you have to remove the lume from the hands first. Than apply the new lume with a tooth pick (a smal drop of lume at the tip of the tooth pick, put it on the hands and pull the lume over to the other side) For the dial I use a oiler, a small one (mine is black).
  9. Andy was my source, maybe he can gime in and tell a bit more.
  10. Thank you guy's, for the compliments. It is so much fun to make these. If I can help any one out please let me know. @ Miky, I hope you don't mind that I used your picture in the beginning of the threat.
  11. Yes, don't make it less strong by mixing pigmented powder to the lume. You will get the color you want and you can dim the lume so it will not turn green. That is how I did it and I still have enough night time glow to read the watch in the dark.
  12. Got this cheap GMT master (in a sub case) just to practice my modding, especially luming dial and hands. This was the watch before (picture from the former owner): This is the watch after re-lume and aging dial, hands and bezel insert: What do you think of the color scheme?
  13. I would leave it as it is. You are asking questions about mixing up parts of two different models. That is not going to work! The 1655 is a good base for a vintage 1675 model but not for later models as yours. The parts are mostly not interchangeable and specially not the plexi crystals and sapphire crystals.
  14. It runs great. It is a DW out of yhe box and it is realy well made. I'm planning getting a PN (the real one) next.
  15. Great watch V. Here is its succesor (still working on it)
  16. I know this one! Still a fantastic watch. But I'll bet the 1680 gets more wrist time
  17. Aahh, I have seen the Albino on DW's site. I love it but I'm a bit affraid I don't like it in the flesh! It is hard to imagine how it realy looks.
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