Polynomial

Back with updated perl: http://www.1-pc8838.com/pn243l02-submersible-ssru-p-11670.html

Perl will be an easy fix. The rest is pretty good, but the CP is sticking out, which is worst of all auto PAMs so far, indeed very noticeable, and while it cna be fixed it is not trivial. Price (close to $400) they originally put up is way too hight for this, unless they made the crystal as on 187, 5mm tick, as per gen.

Looking reasonably good, bezel not perfect but nice; however, they managed to f***up the CP big time, this is a step back from 237/088... http://www.1-pc8838.com/0290-p-11671.html

If one takes example of the recent reps from H and N factories (specially H), I can't think of any cosmetic issues being reported, but loads and loads of movement complains. The new movements either being slow beat manual or the new 7753 tend to have issues, which might be picked up on the calibration photos. I my experience if the watch arrives in perfect working condition and keeps excellent time from day one, the chances are it will not cause problems going forward, and vice versa the near-dead cases can be usually picked up right from the start either by poor time keeping or poor PR (which unfortunatley cannot be detected on the calibration machine).

Agree this is reasonable to ask for when you are e.g. unsure if given pictures are showing a problem of some kind, which might become clear when looking from another angle... But, how do you ask for a calibration photo if a dealer does not have the equipment in place or does not do calibration shots? This requires some basic standards...

QC pictures were introduces couple of years ago and soon after became widely accepted by all good dealers. The "QC" was down to taking various pictures of the watch before sending it, and originally included the following: 1) Shots from different angles, showing all relevant details -- typically 3-4 pictures 2) Picture of the watch on the testing instrument showing how it works (and that it DOES work) 3) Lume shot 4) Photo of the EMS (or other) address label with buyer's address and the watch next to it The first of the above is obviously the minimum but how about 2-4? What has happened some time ago is that most dealers stopped doing the lume shot, explaining this is too time consuming and frankly unnecessary given the latest watches (e.g. H, N, etc.) have good lume and this also does not differ from one watch to another. Now, what I noticed recently is that 3) is being dropped, so no evidence of the watch functioning correctly is provided and hence no guarantee it won't be DOA is given. Finally, 4) is getting dropped as well, potentially opening the possibility of cheating the buyers by recycling the same pictures multiple times (unless we post the pics with order number there would be no way of telling). It seems the cartel dealers are still doing 1, 2, and 4. But there is at least one (major) dealer who seemed to have stopped doing 2, 3, and 4, which I think is not an acceptable QC standard. What should be the minimum standards for QC that we should expect from the dealers?

I had a similar problem recently with the H-factory 176 (dropped by myself, though). When I opened it I found out that the dial is not sitting flat on the movement, rather it came out and was sticking out thus jamming the second hand. I had to glue in the dial as its two legs didn't do a good job in keeping it flat on the movement. With this fix it runs perfectly as before. Might be a generick problem on the newer manual H-factory PAMs, the "unreliable" movment problems might be due to the dial coming off and not to do anything with the movement itself.

It looks actually very good, but one never knows how it feels from the pictures. A gen gator that came on 112 looks great but feels too stiff and gives me rush, must have been treated by some funny chemical... Long time ago I bought a gen gator for Omega from Josh, and that one was just incredibly good quality, smooth, soft and great looking. Also, these rep straps all come in standard length, which is too small for my wrists -- a warning to those with 7.5"-8" wrists.

Where did the 5% go wrong? Seems closer to 99% identical. Perhaps not for scuba diving

It's not out of stock, I ordered one last night and already got QC pics. Andrew still has them, at least the version on the gen gator.

That's gona cost ya about $20k in an AP shop

What is the lesson here? Don't jump the gun before they have the stock, we are providing these guys free credit

I'd say sooner than that, Q4 2011 -- with some obviously wrong movement stuck inside...

The 10 crown should also be bigger. Remaining flaw aside of the date window is the wrong case (too tick and too narrow).

I'll wait will they replace round cyclop with a square one and make the basel-lock crown bigger. A 1:1 version will never happen as they will not produce a correct case, the one they are using is the same for all ROO models, correct for the chronos but wrong for the diver -- diver's case is slightly wider (about 1.5mm), and not as tick. So they would need to produce a whole new case for the diver rep, which seems to me unlikely... Would love to be proven wrong though.

Interestingly, there was a downward trend in the rep prices over the same period (for newly released models at least), the 'super-reps' came down from 400+ to 200+ range, so it was not clear that exchange rates were driving the rep prices. Seems it kicked in eventually...

Has anybody noticed the $20 price jump on Perfect Clones? Can't open Andrew's site, but I suppose he's updating his prices too... Not sure if this is across all brands, but surely seems to be the case for U-Boats and PAMs. Has USD depreciated in China or something?

What about the CP? Is the out-of-the-box ETA CP long enough?

This is the reason I am looking to get a U-Boat, U-Boats are far less common than PAMs, at least in London. I am actually keen to see some wrist shots or actual examples on people wearing them, but with all the watch-spotting effort I put in it I so far have not spotted a single U-Boat in real life

I find it is fairly funny to talk about watch trends in respect to "oversized" watches such as 127 or U-boats -- specially as these draw on designs from some 70-80 years ago. If they haven't gone out of fashion so far, why expect this to happen next year?

Perhaps that's why they call it a rotating bazel The strap is nice, but kind of doesn't fit an extreeme diver design, should be rubber IMO...

Angus sells the best rubber strap, feel and texture same as gen, but none of the cartel pams come with that strap, duno way. Check with Angus if he still sells his ultimate rubber straps, few years ago I ordered a few and they are really top notch.

Other way around actually, case and caseback are TI and bezel is brushed SS.

193 should have titanium case, this rep must weight a lot...

Why is the crown not screwed in all the way to the case? Hope there is no issue there.