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So basicly buying stock based on inside information is "Stealing" and the extra profit you make is not "Free" money. We are talking about money people never had, how can I be stealing it? So I get inside info on Thursday evening that a specific stock will skyrocket on Monday. Friday morning I buy 100 shares at $1.00 per share. My purchase drives the price up a bit. Now its mid day Friday and someone else comes along to purchase a few shares and he has to pay $1.25 per share. Now it is getting close to market closing time and someone else decides to pick up a few shares because they saw the price go from $1.00 at opening, to $1.25 mid-day, and now it is selling for $1.50. Monday morning comes, the information is made public, and now the stock is selling for $3.00 per share. More people start buying and by close on Monday each share of stock is worth $5.00. So you are telling me that since I knew the information on Friday any money I make above and beyond the people who did not buy until the information was released is considered stealing???? What about the extra money that people who managed to buy as soon as the info was made public vs. the people who did not buy until the price was $4.00 per share? Are they stealing too? What about the guy who got in for $1.25 and made extra money, or the guy who got in for $1.50 because my purchase made the stock price rise a bit. Would he not be stealing as well by proxy? Insider trading...cheating maybe, stealing.....not by a longshot. I could see if YOU had the ability to manipulate profit postings and such but simply acting on information......

Well I tend to stick with American Muscle seeing as I can work on just about any piece of it that should happen to break. Mustang GT, some suspension work, built 10:1 compression motor with a 150 shot of nitrous. Could bring it to the track and run low 11's and still get 20mpg in the city. My current car. Mach 1 full exhaust, 4.30 gears, tuned, and will hit high 11's. Still trying to stay n/a for a while and leave the factory suspension in tact for a while.

I have a watch that takes a 22mm band. I have 1.8x22mm springbars which work great on leather and rubber bands for this watch. However when I try to put the SS Bracelet on its a no go with thoes spring bars. I need the 1.8mm width as it fits snug in the bracelet and keeps the endlink and bracelet tight together, however there is not enough play to get the spring bar into the watch. Its hard to describe but the leather and rubber bands can be put on at an angle which lets me get one end of the springbar into its hole so when I push on the other end it will snap into place. With the solid end links it has to go straight on I can not angle the endlink like I do with the rubber and leather. If I try to go straight on the 22mm spring bar will not compress enough to fit between the lugs. What should I do here? Should I go to 1.8 x 21mm springbars?? Will the 21mm springbars be big enough for the 22mm lug width?

Yeah I know it wouldn't be authentic, but again if you look at Panerai's people put all kinds of non gen straps on them. I have an extra SS band so I think I am going to try it and see how it looks, if I don't like it I can always go back to the rubber or the other non modded SS bracelet.

The SS Bracelet for the SOSF is all brushed. Since the sides of the case and the sides of the bezel are polished any opinion on how the bracelet would look if the center links were polished???

I go for McCain, and while most see his view on the war as his downfall I feel it will be what gets him in the whitehouse. And there is one other thing that will keep Obama out of the whitehouse....Jeremiah Wright. No way you go to a church for that long without sharing their views.

How would one get in touch with ted? I would love to get one for a watch I have. Just out of curiosity what is the price on his for the kevlar strap and buckle?

Just a bump wondering if anyone has been able to source a new screw.

No, I honestly do not think you could even make a comparison there. Mercinaries and such will fight for anyone no matter the cause or the enemy they will fight for the highest bidder. Mercinaries would fight against their own countrymen if the other side paid better. As for the FFL, thats somewhat of a gray area considering they are under the control of the French Govt. While not "mercinaries" per se, in the past a large portion of their forces were probably made up of men that fell into that catagory. I do find humor in the FFL myself that a country can set up specialized units to accept men that are not citizens of that country. They allow them to register and serve under assumed names, and up until recently had no form of backround check in place. Basicly that is trying to build your military by whatever means you can up to and including the enlistment of criminals. Here is another interesting thing that adds to the revolving door of the French military, after WWII there were quite a few former German soldiers enlisting into the FFL under assumed names. Hows that for their "we will take whatever we can get" policy, accepting soldiers that were just part of a military force occupying your country. You also have to love how the French Govt. were opposed to the US going into Iraq....anyone care to take a guess as to how many different areas of Africa the FFL are deployed to conducting "Prevention" and "Security" missions????

Only thing I can thing of is the 6 and 12 being in the crystal of the gray dial...In reality I think it is just charging more for the more demanding model.

Kruzer maybe you could help me out a bit on this one. Looking at Chopard's website the subdial rings look alot more black than the subdial rings on the rep. Is it just lighting or is there really a difference here?

My uncle is an optomitrist and has his own private practice which sells almost all of the higher end glasses and sunglasses. For my prescription glasses I used to have Flexon's mainly because they were practicly indestructable, recently I switched to Oakley frames as their prescription line is alot less excentric than their sunglasses. Also I am not nearly as hard on glasses as I used to be. These are the ones I have now http://oakley.com/pd/3152/9606 Spoke 4.0's in polished brown, I like them so much I was considering getting my uncle to make me a set of them in prescription sunglasses. For sunglasses I usually get a new pair or two each year. I went through almost every pair of Oakley's made when I was younger, but as others have mentioned they are kind of age classed and wearing them with a shirt and tie does not look all that great to me atleast. I got a Pair of titanium Maui Jim Wailea's a few years back and no matter what other sunglasses I get I always find myself going back to them. They are very comfortable and lightweight, being sort of Flexon and lightweight you can do almost anything and they will not move. If I had one negative to say it would be that they don't have hinges which makes it a pain sometimes when you have to take them off to go indoors. I have a pair of Black Chrome Kaenon Basis's on order that from what I could tell handeling them are top notch. Very tight, great finish, everything looked even and nothing felt loose or cheap. As for how to spot a fake, build quality plays a big part. I have seen some pretty good Oakley knock offs but once you hold them and look over the finishing and fit of everything you can start to tell them apart. Fortunatley I just go to my uncle for all of my glasses but I would suggest buying from a reputable retailer if you can't tell the difference and don't want to get ripped off at a kiosk. Another way to go would be to stay away from all the top knock offs. You know the brands that they make fakes of so just stay away from thoes.

x's 2 what dealer did this come from?? The second hand should be an easy fix. I have seen the PVD version w/o the He valve and while it does have the black date wheel the numbers are not straight up and down, I have also seen the stainless with the white date wheel which is wrong as well. From all the ones I have seen while this one is not 100% it is the closest I have seen so far. I figure a lume job and send the crystal out for AR and you would be about 95% 1:1

So when we are talking about the CG's need work is this refering to the angle of the part that fits against the case? It seems that after looking at pics the top and bottom edge of the CG's do not sit perfectly flush to the case. I have never been big into PAM's but the NP has been my unicorn for a while and I always hear about the PAM CG's but never a really could tell one from the other. Also the cyclopse, is this a seperate piece that can be taken off of the rep crystal and replaced with a lello cyclopse or do you have to change the entire crystal?

I am missing the same screw from my Link Chrono bracelet. I have been searching for one for atleast 2 months with no luck.

We were raised with a Komondor, for thoes who are not familiar they are the dogs that are all white and have what look like dread locks. We did not let his hair grow long we kept it short so he did not look like the traditional mop. He was a big old boy about 34" to the withers and about 120lbs. One of the best dogs I have ever owned, he would not hurt a fly under normal circumstances but he was very protective of us. One day my sister and I were outside and a strange dog came towards us and my Komondor cleared a 5' fence to get in between us and the dog. Now I currently have a mutt. Half Lab, Half Pit and sweet as can be although a bit hard headed at times. I also have a female Rat Terrier which is my wife's dog. We went to the pet store and the SPCA was there with dogs for adoption, she had been malnurished and was small and frail and my wife had to have her. They would not let us adopt her though because we already had a dog and supposedly she did not get along well with other dogs. I called my brother and he came and adopted her for us. As you can see there is no apparent problem with her being around other dogs. Funny as it may seem she is the alpha dog in our house. THis is what I usually find when I get home: And here they are alert and ready to play...amazing what holding a raw hide above the camera will do.

So the new buckle you posted also has the raised "B" logo. How does the other end look? Does it look like the end I posted? Also how deep is the lettering, mine seems very shallow compared to all the other pics I have seen.

Ok we all know that rep Brietling dive straps exist. I have seen them on the bay in various colors such as white and yellow, and I have seen them in both black and blue as well. They usually have crappy looking buckes and the writing is shorter compared to the width of the strap. Now I purchsed what I believe to be a gen rubber strap off the bay but now after looking through pictures of people here who have a diver strap on their watch as well as other pictures of gen straps for sale on ebay I am starting to wonder if I just got a very good rep of the strap. Here are a few of the differences I can see on mine vs the gen. 1.) Breitling logo on buckle is raised instead of recessed, logo is very clean and looks great however other than this one I have yet to see one with a raised logo. 2.) Breitling letters don't seem deep enough. In other words the lettering sticks up from the band maybe 1/16" 3.) Hard to describe but if you look at how the end of the strap is finished off compared to a gen strap there is a difference. Now this strap does have the diagonal lines on the back side of the strap, it also has "caoutchouc" on the back side of the keeper and it also has 22-20 with 120S under it at the lug end of both straps. See the pics below to see what I am talking about as far as the raised B Logo on the buckle and the way the end of the strap is finished off. I could not get a decent picture showing the depth of the lettering. Please forgive the crappy photos they are the best I could do with a cameraphone at work.

How far along are we? Also I thought the 2824 date was pretty close to the Gen date? Either way I am in for one.

I would be in for one as well 2824-2

Try overstock.com I took my wife shopping for a watch and she fell in love with a Bulova we saw that was $450.00 retail. I checked Overstock and got it for $265.00 shipped to my door within 4 days of placing the order.

Just some food for thought in refrence to the SL being superior to the Tritium. This would all depend on intended use. For example if you are going rec. diving or out at night for recreational reasons a 5 second blast of a flashlight on a watch would not be that big of an issue. On the other hand in any military type of role that 5 second blast which could probably be seen for miles, line of sight permitting, that 5 second blast is enough to give away your position. Night operations are handled quite differently, usually red light filters are used on flashlights, just the same most breifing areas, and the inside of transport planes/helicopters are also lit via red lights to maintain your adaptive nightvision, also a red light filter will provide you enough light to see what you are doing without it being spotted from a distance. Blasting a 100+ lumen white light would be enough to screw up your adaptive nightvision for a few min. There again it goes back to different issues. Tritium tubes are not the most appealing thing to look at, not to mention the very design of the watch would have to be designed around the tubes from the begining. Someone goes to buy a tritium tube watch they know exactly what they are getting a dial with a bunch of tubes around it. Lets say Rolex decided to use it on their sub and Omega decided to use it on the Planet Ocean, other than the wording on the dial both would look nearly identical. Also you have to be honest, while all of the big player in watches market their watches to be hardened time keeping tools, and they very well may be, how many of them are worn by the people who could really put their dependability to the test? You will find more Timex and Casio's being used under harsh conditions than any Rolex, Omega, or any other high dollar watch. Again not trying to insult a very good and informative post just adding another angle to it. I think both tritium and SL have their respective place for telling time at night, such is too that they both could be considered superior to the other under different conditions.

I think in most cases reps are used in movies for practical reasons. For example in an action movie and or tv show. The real actor has to have the watch and so does the stunt man. Chances of breaking a real watch during filming is probably pretty high, also lets say they used real watches and destroyed 5-10 of them during production..the cost could add up pretty quick. Also I would be willing to bet that a decent amount of movie props come up missing on the set, if they were using real $5K watches I wonder how long they would take to walk off the set..... As for using fake guns, most if not all movie guns are real or atleast started out that way. They are modified real guns that are made to chamber and fire only blanks.

I wonder how the original crystal compares to the aftermarket so to speak AR. I was considering getting the gen crystal when I get the gen dial, but you could sure save a considerable amount of change by simply re-coating the rep crystal.

Not sure how tight of a fit it is but I bought 1.8mm springbars to put the gen dive strap on my SOSF as the springbars that came on it were really loose inside of the strap. The 1.8's would not fit easily into the strap so I put a bit of vasaline on the springbars and they slid right in. After the bars were in I just wiped the excess off and was good to go. might not work in this case but just figured I would share as if it does it seems easier than trying to make the holes in the strap bigger.