imajedi

No offense taken A. No one expects a forum on rep watches to be your first priority in life. Thanks for checking in. Gold solution to touch up the case is here and new stem arrived so I'll let you know how things progress. No input needed at this time but please stand by. :-)

Sweet looking case. Please post pics when you get it assembled

Stunning watch

Welcome and sorry you got burned. The people around here would never do such a thing and actually do a great service by helping people spot non-genuine watches. What you'll realize is that no one and I mean no one, knows more about watches than the people on replica forums. They build them piece by piece and know every detail. It's an amazing place and if you stick around you'll learn too. Love your speedy. My 105.012 says hello.

Yes it makes sense. My tachy definitely has the flat 1mm height before the slope starts, which accordingly to you would indicate a gen tachy. You can see the flat height very clearly in a number of the pictures I posted above. Look at the pictures where I'm just holding the tachy or where you can see the back of the tachy where the dial mates. You can easily see about a 1mm step or flat surface before the slope of the tachy starts on the top side.

Or here: FS: Rolex 116610 / 16610 AR Crystal https://rwg.cc/index.php?/topic/189350-FS%3A-Rolex-116610---16610-AR-Crystal

Dremel or sandpaper.

Wow, really love this 1680! Specs?

Yeah, I know it's not the movement holder because it's irrelevant to the stackup. The dial fits against the back of the tachy and the dial is flush with the movement so the only thing that can affect where the movement is positioned with respect to the case (crown position) is the back of the tacky. The no glue will help for sure. Probably lowered it half a mm. I have a new stem on the way. I can't believe the old one came out. We'll see how it looks when I get it reassembled. Are you sure this tachy is rep? It was sold to me by Chris as gen. I paid $600. At the end of the day I don't care too much because the color is absolutely perfect but it's the principle that is upsetting. Conveniently, Chris seems to have disappeared. Thanks for the reply!!

Chrono works. Watch ran fine for about a year. Hmmmm not sure but no tabs on this one. Totally not needed anyway. The tachy fits snug in the rubber bezel ring and the ring is fixed from moving by the 8 through screws that hold the bezel on. The tabs are just for alignment so I'll just have to be careful when I assemble to make sure it's aligned. Don't worry, she'll be back. There were a couple places on the case where I wasn't happy with the plating job so this gives me the opportunity to fix everything. Plating solution on the way along with the new stem. I also got the new legend/edge datewheel so this thing is gonna be perfect.

Holy crap miracles do happen. New stem on the way. Now just pray the keyless isn't screwed. Yeah, I think it has the step. If you mean on the outside. Also, it does not have the tabs to fit in the little holes like the reps do. Just a smooth bottom.

Glue removed. That should help the tachy sit a little lower in the case.

Figured that out. Turns out it was just a little stuck. Once the screws are out, nothing is holding the bezel on. Looks like Chris clues the tachy to the case to try and keep it from moving. So the tachy is sitting on top of the glue which is definitely not helping the problem. You can see a small gap between the top side of the case and the bottom of the tachy when you assemble them. I think it's a combination of that and the crown was just put back a little too far towards the case back. Removing the glue and getting the tachy down flush on the case will certainly help.

Yep sure does. Thanks for the reply. It was sold to me by Chris as a gen tachy. I'm not an expert but the color is perfect. Images of the back of the Tachy are below. You can see it has a step in it and the dial rests against the back of the tacky.

Stunning. However, assuming time is money, what did it cost?

No that's the confusing part. The tube is way to close to the caseback and that's the direction it was moved. If they would have left it put, it seems like it might have been perfect. The alternative, of course, is that the movement is too far into the case. Because the dial/movement thickness/height is fixed, it means the back of the tachy, which defines the location of the dial and movement, is too far away from the caseback. I'm not sure how to adjust this. Plus I'm just assuming that's the issue.

What's crazy is by how much the stem height is misaligned and the fact that it appears the tube positioned was moved to make it worse. I'm not even a watch maker and I can see how bad it is. For god's sake it misses the entire movement. Lol I just need some advice about why it's so far off and then I'm sure either I can fix it or I can find someone who can. Thanks for the offer but I don't think I'm ready to sell yet.

Almost every rolex rep sold uses a 2824, a dial spacer, and a DWO. I probably have an extra one laying around somewhere if you need one I can check.

A, any advice to nudge me in the right direction.@legend

I have a absolutely stunning (I think so) Rose gold Rubber clad franken. It worked great for about a year and the stem snapped. Crap. I emailed Chris (he did the original build) about it and haven't heard back from him at all. Anyone know if he's still in business? Anyway, I took it apart to see what was up and it's really obvious why the stem broke. The stem hole and movement are not lined up depth wise meaning in and out of the glass (z axis). Broken stem sits almost completely above the movement and it's not bent, I checked. When you turn the crown it stays right there. In the second picture you can see the broken stem poking out almost completely above the movement. This seems weird given that you can also tell from the picture below that the location of the tube has been moved (in what seems like the wrong direction). It almost seems like the tube would have been perfect right where it was to begin with. Tube Position from outside: You can see the silver metal filling where the tube used to be and thus can tell it's been moved. In terms of the stack up. It appears the dial rests against the back of the Tachy so the position of the back surface of the tachy in relation to the tube is critical. I have a gen tachy, not sure if that matters but that distance on my watch seems to be way off. It's almost like the rubber bezel needs to be shaved down to push the tachy down. With that said, I have no idea how that rubber bezel and tachy are assembled!?!?!? I took all the screws out but it seems to be stuck to the watch case. Anyone know anything about any of this? Chris? Stem/tube height? What needs to change to fix this? How does the rubber bezel come off? Thanks!!! Jedi Please help me get this baby back where she belongs, on my wrist!!

What year is that one Nanuq?

Same here

"Up there"? Lol like it may be close? Lololololol I can't even imagine a better build let alone actually know of a better one.

Clean the crystal so that only the dial is vintagized. That's what really makes vintage watches pop. Also, the hands need to have some aging to match the dial. Maybe polish the case to remove some of the sharp edges. All in, I think it looks good.