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Everything posted by stilty
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How to tell if the ETA you bought is new and serviced
stilty replied to RWG Technical's topic in General Discussion
Only if they specify that it is sealed. I don't think that Ofrei carries sealed movements, only bulk. I haven't ordered a movement from JB, so I don't know. The last sealed movement I bought was from my local supply house. They are a small company, so they only get sealed movements and don't have the buying power to buy bulk. I don't know where The Zigmeister picked up his movement, but I occasionaly order from a company called Perrin in Toronto, and they have both sealed and bulk movements. The last price I got on a 2892-A2 was $260. Definitely not cheap anymore. I think the bulk was $230, but I can't remember for sure. I was told the majority of bulk and overstock movements are bought by Witschi in Switzerland and then resold to supply houses around the world. So again, know your seller and you shouldn't have any problems. -
How to tell if the ETA you bought is new and serviced
stilty replied to RWG Technical's topic in General Discussion
I think you have to know your seller. The only way you can 100% know that your movement is factory fresh is if it arrives sealed with genuine swiss air, as shown in the picture. Some of the bulk movements are not even opened or taken out of their plastic holders and are in NEW untouched condition. You just don't know for sure, and the only way to be sure is to buy a sealed movement. Good post The Zigmeister! -
Where to buy Ultrasonic cleaner and rinse in Canada
stilty replied to XL2000's topic in Watch Repair & Upgrade
Try Perrin in Toronto. They should have it. -
I don't know what movements are used in those reps, but here is an example of an ETA 2824-2. If your date is not rolling over at midnight, there is probably something wrong with the wheel. See RED arrow. That gear is driven by the hour wheel and is spring loaded to snap the date disc forward. It could be slipping, or damaged. As for the other problem of the date not being able to be advanced manually, See BLUE arrow. That gear, when engaged advances the date disc manually. So two things come to mind. 1.) are you turning the crown the right way when trying to advance the date? Depending on the movement, you may have to turn the crown clockwise or counterclockwise. 2.) Maybe the wheel is missing.
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Yeah, I've checked out a few of my serials on cases before. One came back as a serial not matching the case number. Couldn't figure that one out. Fake case? Re-stamped case? Rolex pulling my leg? Only other problem I had, was a dial not matching the case/serial.
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That looks like an exciting and amazing project and I would be all over it if I had the opportunity. I'm curious as to why there is no serial number on the case? Stolen watch parted out? I'm not judging here if that is the case, but I couldn't imagine the feeling if it was my watch that was stolen. Especially if it was my "grail" watch and I saved, and saved, and saved, so I could buy it. I'm sure it was insured, but it would take a very long time to replace... and many more years on the waiting list.
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also, be very careful with G&S or any other adhesive for that matter. I find the G&S cement "spider-webs". What I mean is, if you are not careful, the glue can leave a very fine stringy residue in places where you don't want, or need glue! It is very difficult to remove or clean from a movement. just make sure your applicator, or tip is very clean, have some alcohol around to keep it clean.
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you definitely need a 5.3mm crown for that case, that is what that case calls for. It would require a 5.3mm tube as well, and yes, if you are missing the gasket, your crown will wobble in the tube. Check this chart: Case Ref 5500 calls for crown 24-530-0. A modern 6mm crown (24-603-0) for 5.3mm tube will fit, but it does look too big for you case, don't you think? Just google 5500 images and you will see. You need the 5.3mm crown.
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Is that a 6mm crown? It looks like it in the pictures. You need a 5.3mm crown for that case. Maybe you have a new style crown for old style tube? The new style crown is for 5.3mm tube. Please show a picture of the crown in the tube if you can. That might be why it is loose. You will need a crown that is thicker for the old style tube.
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Buy it and flip it. Does your dealer have a return policy? Buy it, don't wear it, make sure you get everything, packaging, hang tags, shipping carton, get it all. If you can return it, what have you got to lose? Offer it up on eBay, craigslist, whatever. You have an opportunity... take it. It sounds like easy money to me. The markup on the Daytona is proven. I got the call for a Milgauss, mind you it wasn't the green sapphire, but still had the chance to pick one up. I talked it over with the wife, there was zero sales history in the grey market, wasn't sure of a quick flip, and the wife didn't want me laying down that much cash with a new baby on the way. So I passed. Hind-sight is 20/20 and I could have made a very easy profit. We all know the demand of the Daytona, it seems like no brainer to me. I don't think you can lose. Just don't wear it, don't even try it on if you buy it.
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Back to basics- A 14270 Explorer I frankenstein
stilty replied to ubiquitous's topic in The Rolex Area
Oh yes, I forgot to mention... great photos! -
Well, I took some very fine steel wool to one of my holders to remove the crud. Seems there is a very light layer of plating below. I'll give it another try to get another layer applied. definitely a time consuming process.
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I tried out their nickel plating kit yesterday. I ordered one to plate my movement holders. I followed their instructions, but ended up with a couple of very nasty tarnished holders! Now I have to try and clean them and get them back to the nice brass finish. I have yet to contact them to see what the problem is. But as it stands, the kit is crap and does not work! I tried the "brush-on" method and that didn't work, then I tried the "dip" method and that was even worse. The "dip" method left my holder with a crusty green finish.
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excellent article J3. thanks for sharing.
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Back to basics- A 14270 Explorer I frankenstein
stilty replied to ubiquitous's topic in The Rolex Area
Hey R! Nice one! That 14270 I built is now all in parts and on the back burner. 14270 before I tore it apart My dial is the same. some small marks, but only noticable when looking for them. I finally got the matching hand set. I'm waiting for the hour and cannon pinion that I sent out to be cut on a lathe for a perfect fit. I tried to do it myself, but just didn't work to exact fit. I switched to a 12892. I stripped off the date function, replaced the set bridge with a 2 position. Once I get the hour and cannon, I'll get around to putting it together. Your hands look pretty good. Nice job! -
Advantages: Higher quality movement. If you are going all out on the Franken with gen parts, you might as well get a high quality movement. Nothing wrong with the 2824-2, but the 2892-A2 is a definite leap ahead. Especially the -A2, it has been compared to the Rolex 3135. The 2892 is easier to install in the case with stem alignment. The movement I used above is a 12892. It is a larger diameter, very close to Rolex. But they are hard to find now, so it will be easier to use 2892-A2. The 12892 above is a very high quality movement in finish and performance. After monitoring performance. The watch above currently gained +3 seconds in 30 hours dial up. Also, with the thinner 2892-A2 in the Rolex case, you have enough room to use a genuine Rolex date disc. It can easily be glued to the eta disc with enough room to function under the dial without being hung up. Disadvantages: Cost of the 2892-A2 is almost double the 2824-2. At least if you buy new. I just picked up a brand new from ETA 2892-A2 from my supply house for $259 tax in. But buying new saves on a service and overhaul of used movement. That can run you $80-100, so it works out in the end. While fitting the genuine Rolex date disc is easy, it is also expensive and they are not easy to find. They can cost anywhere from $75 to $100. Fitting the 2892-A2. To do it properly, requires a holder. I had a custom CNC milled holder manufactured especially for the 2892 to fit in a Rolex 3135 case. This took care of everything in one holder, stem alignment, case fitting, and space for the genuine date disc. Holder for ETA Problem is, I only have a couple left and want to use them for a few upcoming projects. I can easily get more made, but they are expensive. The cost for a second run will be cheaper as I don't have to pay for the computer setup of the model. Only the tool set up and machine time now.
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Thanks! I'm sure I'll build a few more down the road as I have a few on the back burner... I just don't think I'll build for others as it stresses me out too much! Not that the owner was stressing me out or anything... in fact he was pretty "Kool & the Gang" about the whole process, especially when a few of the parts he sent me went sideways.
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Thanks Freddy. Yes, I wish the owner went for the genuine disc for an overlay, considering the time and effort that went into this. But it still turned out great even with the rep overlay. A genuine disc would have been icing on the cake and made a fool proof franken. If I had a spare gen disc, I probably would have installed it... to go this far, especially with the high quality movement and genuine parts...
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After a few bumps and delays, this baby came to life today. Unfortunately, I am only the surrogate father and this will be off to the lucky owner after a few days in the nursery. I will monitor the first 48 hours of life before releasing to make sure all is fine! Genuine Rolex 16234 case with White Gold Fluted bezel to match case number. Genuine sapphire crystal. Genuine crown. Genuine dial. Clark hands Cubic-works overlay Fully service NOS Mido movement. I figured I would share a few photos I took today as I was wrapping up assembly. Here is a straight on shot after I was finished, date and time set. I synched with www.greenwichmeantime.org The date overlay font is a bit bigger than gen. The date nearly fills the dial window. It was very long and tedious installing this overlay as there was no room for error. It had to be perfect. It is hard to see in the picture, but that white gold bezel screams! No rep can even come close. I'm sure Freddy can agree... The Rolex WG bezel has to be seen in person to be appreciated. The case that was sent to me was in mint condition. Here are a few shots. I was done everything, but hand installation, otherwise I would have taken more pictures. All I did today was install hands, and case the movement. Here is a shot after I installed the minute hand. I was checking to make sure the hand cleared the dial markers. Looks pretty good to me! The hands are installed nice and level with the dial. No hand bending or any shortcuts like that! I took this picture after I installed the sweep second. I let the movement run a few minutes to examine the sweep second as it made a few laps around the dial. All looks good! And how could I go without taking a couple shots of the movement. These movements are very well made and finished. Too bad I can't get anymore. Hence one of the reasons I had some 2892-A2 holders manufactured. Look at the beautiful etching and finishing on the plates and rotor. I'm quite pleased with the results, even with the rep overlay. I'm sure the owner will be pleased as well. This project took a lot longer then expected as I ran into a few problems with the parts I received and replacement parts needed to be sourced. My first and last commission.
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Rollie SD with a few mods, what do you think? Rep? Gen?
stilty replied to RWG Technical's topic in The Rolex Area
Sounds like the best option The Zigmeister. Especially since the date disc holders can be somewhat easily found if the owner ever wanted to re-sell the movement. I have a spare NOS 1570 date disc holder in the drawer if your customer would like it for future use. -
Rollie SD with a few mods, what do you think? Rep? Gen?
stilty replied to RWG Technical's topic in The Rolex Area
I'm really interested in this picture. Did you buff out some of the stamping on the clasp blade? Or Photoshop it out to try and confuse us? Shouldn't it read "PATENTED & REGISTERED" -
Drawbacks to shipping internationally with reduced customs dec. value
stilty replied to a topic in General Discussion
Yes, if you must insure. Use third party. I used to buy sell gens about 8 years ago on eBay. Back before eBay turned into a zoo, too much competition, etc. And also when the USD was kicking the CDN to all hell. It was a Canadian sellers dream! Everything I sold was a 50% profit. Buy a watch in CDN, sell on eBay and get paid in USD! Anyway, everytime I shipped a high value item, I would use a company called ParcelPro. Third party insurance for the jewelry industry. -
I don't know? My local AD had a wait list for the YMII, and still had inventory on the ceramic GMT. And that is even with the $25K price difference. The market for those that can drop that kind of coin on a YMII is a select few. I think Rolex served that customer demo quite well. Even if taste is questionable! Regardless, congrats on that GMT, it is a beauty.
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In his previous thread, he is using the gen movement from the 5500 for another project. He now wants to put the empty case to use.