stilty

Well, here is my first vintage piece. A franken 1016 Rolex Explorer I. First off, I have to thank a few members for the help in this project. The Zigmeister did an amazing re-lume to the dial. The color is excellent with a nice soft glow. And to another member, who I will not name at this time. He can come forward if he choses to. He did an outstanding job with the case, bezel and crystal fitting. The dial is after market. Relumed by The Zigmeister. This is a 60's version of this dial with the funky coronet. I've seen 5 different dial versions for the 1016 in my research for this model. The case is a genuine Rolex case. It began life as a modern DJ case. 16234 to be exact from 1990. The case is fitted with an aftermarket Tropic 22 crystal and aftermarket bezel. The lug holes have been drilled to accept the 2mm springbars. The case has been expertly polished and looks stunning! The crown is genuine Rolex. I chose this case as it more closely resembled the 1016. More so than the 1601 or 16000 cases from the same era. The caseback setup is the same on the 1016 and 162XX series datejust. (thanks Heywood for the loan of the 1603 to use for reference.) The hour and minute hand are Genuine Rolex hands made for Tudor. These are not aftermarket and are genuine! A very rare find. The sweep second is aftermarket. I may pull the hands and replace with relumed rep hands to match the glow of the dial as the Tritium on these hands have long expired. The bracelet is a nice genuine vintage 78360 with the proper 580 hoods. I am going to have to give the bracelet some work in order to bring it up the the sheen of the case. Otherwise it is a pretty good match and adds some nice vintage charm. The movement is a hybrid. It began as a standard ETA 2846 Day/Date movement. In order to fit it in the case, I had to use a mainplate for ETA 2801-2. It is thinner and made stem alignment a lot easier. All the guts from the 2846 were transplanted into the 2801-2 mainplate. I replaced the set bridge with a two position bridge to eliminate the quickset date position. I also installed a stop/ hack lever, so now it hacks. The movement has been fully serviced and regulated and is keeping excellent time and is slow beat. Here are some more shots: Here is a shot of the excellent work on the lug holes. I fitted the bracelet with Rolex 2mm Submariner springbars, but will have to replace them with the slightly shorter springbars that were made for the 1016. Here is a shot of the nice 580 hoods with the 78360 bracelet. Here is a wrist shot. This watch is very comfortable to wear. It also looks bigger than a DJ, even though it is the same case size. I love the classic vintage look! My new favorite timepiece! Here is a nice profile shot on the wrist. I love the look of the drilled lug holes and the profile of the crystal! Thanks for looking. I hope you enjoy!

This looks like a deal: http://www.stauntonweb.com/cloktols2.html $159 for a set. shipping included.

Awewome, thanks for the replies.

Thanks guys! I'll look for that discussion on the blade quality. I'll check if they are compatible as well.

I'm looking to get a new set of screwdrivers and upgrade from my current set. My local supply house carries both lines, but does not have either set in stock so I can't compare. Anyone use either the Horotec or Bergeon screwdrivers? Thoughts? I'm thinking of going Bergeon as they seem to be a standard on most benches. $100+ for a set with stand.

Hey JimmyThree, Always a wealth of information! Nice to see you here!

yeah, I've got a 16220 case that has holes, and a 16220 case that does not have holes. Just something Rolex did I guess. I'll check the series later. They both have bracelets on them and I'm kinda lazy to do it now. I think the holes case is an E series, and the no holes is A. I have to double check though.

That is a definate "grail" watch for any collector. Rep or gen! I love it! If you don't mind me asking, what did that case set you back?

First time to Kauai. I've only been to Maui, spent four days in Kaanapali, and a week in Kihei. I preferred the chill atmosphere of Kihei as Kaanapali was too "resort". Although Kaanapali beach is amazing and the sunset is to die for. The Old Lahaina Luau was fun too. Thanks for the visiting info of Kauai, we are really looking forward to the garden island. We've heard so many good things. Hawaii is truely a special place and you are blessed to live there.

@vmena, nice example of a Franken! And Freddy I always love that vintage DJ. I really need to build one. @lumpy. You can never go wrong building a Franken! Here's my example: Everything visible is genuine, with the exception of the sweep second hand. Powered by ETA.

Nice post and pics! I'm taking the wife and kid to Kauai in two weeks. I can't wait for some sun, surf, and relaxation. Enough of this winter already! I'm getting tired of the cold and it is only the middle of January.

A few quick tips on installing: 1.) use a slow set epoxy. This gives you some time to make adjustments before it hardens. Four or six small dots on the ETA date disc, opposite each other. Make sure to not apply too much and have it drip or spread anywhere you don't want it! The dots must be spaced equally apart in in opposing each dot as the epoxy can shrink when it dries. Then it may pull in one direction my a 1/10 mm and throw off your alignment. 2.) start with 11 and align that with date window. When centered, set your movement to quick set date, and advance until you get to 26. They adjust until 26 is centered. Then advance to 11 to check that it is still centered. Repeat until both the 11 and 26 are centered. Once both are, then in theory, the rest of the calender will be aligned. 3.) Try and use a rep dial with the dial feet intact to save time. When building frankens with genuine dials, it is necessary to remove the dial feet. This makes it even more time consuming as I find I spend more time ensuring the dial is lined up before I check the disc alignment. If the dial is not aligned, then it will throw out the alignment of the disc. 4.) Always use old parts for test fitting. Save your good stuff for final assembly if you can. Hope this helps. The next time I do one, I'll take some pictures and put together a tuturial.

Hi Freddy, that would be great, but is impossible to do. The alignment of the Rolex numbers would be printed on the teeth of the ETA disc if they were done that way. That is why an overlay is used. If you have a spare Rolex dial, place it on an ETA movement without an overlay installed. Almost dead center of the Rolex date window will be the teeth of the ETA date disc. The reason the overlays are used is to fit the Rolex date window on the dials. Unfortunately, overlays are the only option as the ETA date disc does not align with a Rolex date window. Rolex 1570, 3035, 3135 date discs are centered 9mm from the dial center. ETA date discs are centered 10mm from the dial center. That is why a Rolex dial will not align with an ETA movement.

yes, there will be a bit of overhang on the ID. I don't know the exact measurement, but the axis of the Rolex date disc and number layout is smaller than ETA. That is why the overlay is used. Here is an example of the 12892 with a 3135 date disc attached as overlay. The layout is correct in your picture, that is how they have to be made.

First question that comes to my mind is, does that bracelet fit the case? Is it the angle, or are the springbars not aligned with the lug holes? There was a case that just ended on eBay with no lug holes for $199. pretty good deal as those cases are a hard find. There is a process where the lug holes can be filled by welding, then sanded and polished. you can't even see the fill, but it is risky as you can damage the case by overheating with the weld. I don't recommend it unless you have some experience.

OHhhh! I've always had my eye on that model! Good deal on that. Unfortunately my budget is blown on a vacation next month.

Hi Lello, I don't think you will have a problem moving them as the shiny radial finish will be the 'holy grail' in the vintage rep community! The only problem I had with the cutting of my blanks, was that they curled slightly after being cut. It is just the nature of the metal. It is not that big of a deal as it does lay flat if glued down. Also, I don't think you can make an actual date disc and still be able install it on the movement. The date postition is different. Glueing an overlay isn't that difficult, providing one uses a slow set epoxy which allows you time reposition the overlay. This sounds exciting! Anyone want go buy a couple of genuine date discs? Don't think I'll need them for reference anymore!

Yes, the thickness for the overlay must be no thicker than 0.07mm when used with the 2846 or 2836-2. Both movements are the same dimensions. The only way a gen disc thickness (0.19mm) can be used is if you use a thinner movement. a 2824-2 to replace the 2836-2, or build a hybrid 2846 in a 2824-2 mainplate. A spacer will be required between movement and dial to allow for stem alignment. This spacer also allows for clearance of the thicker overlay. Lello, I had my blanks made to the same dimensions as the rep overlays. OD is 23mm, and ID is 15mm. Thickness is 0.07mm. These are not date discs, but date overlays. They must be glued on top of the ETA date disc. That is why they have to be so thin. Please check with your printer if he can replicate the finish on such a thin material, if so, then I think we are on to something. I don't think getting the file is a problem, just the radial brush finished blanks to print on.

0.20mm is too thick for an overlay for the reps. It has to be the same thickness as rep overlays. 0.07mm. I have some Stainless steel blanks in 0.07mm that I had made to try and replicate the burshed finish, but the brushed finish is hard to replicate. I've tried making a few brushed blanks, but can't match the genuine disc. I have two genuine brushed radial 1570 discs for reference. I think they will have to be made from aluminum to match the look and finish of the gen, but then that will be very difficult to work with, especially at 0.07mm thick. I have special ordered some 0.07mm aluminum material from a local supply company and when I get it, I will see how easy it is to work with. I'm not imagining it to be that easy. I also have a 70% complete Illustrator file of the font. Traced from a scan of the genuine discs I have. The date progression of opposite of ETA, so the numbers have to be laid out to match ETA, and not the 1570. I'm sure getting printed on white is not a problem as Arch as the file, I've got an almost complete file as well as the material to print on. I think what everyone is trying to acheive is the "holy grail" of overlay. The brushed radial finish overlay. And this is not an easy task, especially with the thin material.

Greetings from Vancouver! HA HA HA HA! That is too funny. The Toronto Maple-Laughs! Have they cleaned up that organization yet? I was at a Michael Buble show the other night and he was taking the [censored] out of the Leafs! Classic!

You are probably best to buy a sealed movement. May cost a little more initially, but you also have to factor in the cost of getting a "used" or "bulk" movement serviced. Also, you have to remember that you will need to get the correct hand fitting height as well. Normal hand fitting for the 2824-2 is H.2. You will need at least H.3. Factor in at least another $20 for the cannon, hour and fourth wheel.

my Spidey senses are telling me "nickel plated precision milled brass movement holder for an OEM fit" could be in the near future.

Quality always over quantity. Nice collection.

The 2893-2, which is based on the 2892-A2 is 0.20mm larger in diameter than the 2836-2.

My first Sub rep was marked "SWISS T < 25". I wish I still had it for reference. If I remember correctly, the 6 marker was a lot fatter and completely wrong.