stilty

Yes, it will fit. It is just a glue on part. There are many topics and threads on this forum in regards to overlays and fonts. If you perform a search, you will find all the information you need. The cubic font will be wrong for your project. you need a vintage font.

This is what I pretty much wear on a daily basis. The Nixon Automatic. More of a trendy watch with the board crowd. (skate, surf, snow) I got it from my brother who used to own a board shop. They retailed here in Canada for $900, but I got it for cost, around $500 with taxes. It is one solid watch. Very big, and very heavy duty. ETA 2836-2 powered. Very nice for a boutique watch. All stainless, tungsten bezel, sapphire, screw down crown, WR to 200M. But like I said, it is more of a trendy watch for the boutique crowd. May not be your cup of tea. Mine is the black face. They also just released an all black version (pvd I think?):

The 11th hour of the 11th day in the 11th month. We should all Remember. Please show your respect with a minute of silence.

It may depend on the relationship they have with Rolex. The guy I was talking to just orders them in bulk and they don't expect them back. But he did say most parts are exchange only with Rolex.

Those are pretty bang on prices for crowns, but there are exceptions if you are patient and very lucky on eBay. I've found sealed 24-603-0's for $40, and a sealed 24-530-0 for $25.00. Those deals are very rare though. I've been told that crowns direct from Rolex to service agent are between $25-$30. They are to mark them up 40% to the end user on a repair or service. So when I see some crowns on ebay listed for $135! You know someone is making some pretty good margin. And you know someone is making some very good profit when they are selling their used crowns on eBay for $25. Buy a new crown from Rolex for $25, install on customers watch, bill them $40 or blend into their service package, then resell their old crown on eBay for $25. But seeing that not anyone can buy direct from Rolex, I guess that is market value. I know I still buy them, even knowing they are marked up 200-300%

No, the dial feet are in different positions. The movement size is different as well. 2000 = 19.4mm 2671 = 17.2mm

Are you talking about the smooth bezel on UB7's franken? That is smooth steel my friend. The 16200 is SS case, SS smooth steel bezel. The 16234 is SS case, WG fluted bezel. If you read the numbers, they are coded. 16200: 162 = SS datejust case + 0=smooth bezel + 0=Stainless Steel 16234: 162 = SS datejust case + 3=fluted bezel + 4=White Gold 16233: 162 = SS datejust case + 3=fluted bezel + 3=Yellow Gold 16220: 162 = SS datejust case + 2 = engine turned bezel + 0=Stainless Steel These numbers are good to know, especially if you are planning on buying a second hand gen. I've seen a few on ebay in the past that have bezels that don't match the case number. Hope this info helps you.

and just another note on the exchange rate... It looks as if someone is already on the program! http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/jwl/472287005.html

Well, it depends on how you look at it. If you are looking purely from a financial point, then no, it is not worth. But as a hobby, then yes. (what Freddy built is worth it on both levels!) If you enjoy working with the parts, sourcing the parts, and building the timepiece, of course it is worth it! No one ever said this was an inexpensive hobby. I have a couple of projects on the burner right now that will definately be too much for the average collector as far as financially. I've just recently aquired a brand new Rolex bracelet still in the wrapper that costs the same as buying 2-3 Rolex reps, mix that with a genuine dial, genuine hand set, genuine crown, and genuine no-holes case, we're talking $1000+, and that does not include retro-fitting a movement, the servicing, extra parts, lathe work, etc. To some, that is a complete waste of money. And in the end, total bill will probably be around $1200. If i was to buy the gen, best price for the same watch would be around $2800. If I wanted to sell it once I'm done, would I get $1200? Not likely. I would probably have to break it down and sell off one part at a time. Of course, there is the option of sourcing a gen movement, but then add on another $1500+, and at that point, I might as well just go out and buy one. But then, there goes the fun of doing it myself.

There were a few years where the 14270 had lug holes. It was when they introduced the 14270 around 1990, when they stopped making the 1016. Rolex didn't introduce the no-holes case until the mid 90's.

nice! bummer about the stem. I'm a fan of that silver dial.

oh man, it is almost time to go shopping in the US! $1.00 CDN = $0.91 USD It wasn't long ago that it was the other way around. A sub on Alan Furman is listed at $4800 US or roughly $4400 CDN. If I remember correctly, the CDN list is around $5400. What a savings!

Hey amigo, I've posted this comparison in a previous thread. Except it is a scan of the genuine 3135 next to the rep overlay. Compared to the gen, the paint is a little different. My scanner picks up a bit of a blue hue off the cubic overlay. Stay patient. I am working on getting a nice overlay created. CLICK HERE This difference is very obvious, especially when viewed under the cyclops.

I was thinking they might. But does it have to be attached to a watch? Nearest RSC is in Toronto, but maybe a local dealer will do it for me. It is not a cheap bracelet so I would hate to damage it.

Thanks The Zigmeister! I just fired you an email as well. T.

I'm not too familiar with the folded link bracelets. I'm looking at picking up a 7836 bracelet for a vintage project that is slowly coming together. Looking at the pictures of the one I may buy, and others online, it doesn't appear that easy to re-size them. Can they be re-sized? The one I'm looking at is 13 links, so pretty much full size and may be too big once installed on the watch. thanks in advance.

I've been looking into this project as well. In both ladies and mid size. I haven't made a move to aquire any parts, but this is probably what I would do. I would get the ETA 2000-1 movement. It is 19.4mm and 3.6mm thick. This is the closest in size to a 2035/ 2135 rolex. The rolex is 19.7mm and 5.95mm thick. The thinner 2000-1 will be easier for stem alignment and should allow you to use a genuine date disc as an overlay. Unfotrunately, both the movement and gen date disc are expensive. You will need one for the 2035 due the the date progession. Here is one on ebay. 260124581879 You will have to remove the driving gear from it to fit on the movement. Also, the 2000-1 is designed for thin watches so you will also have to check the hand fitting height. You will most likely have to replace the fourth, hour and cannon pinion. And this may be the only snag in using this movement. It seems the tallest fitting height is 3 for this. It may not be tall enough to clear the dial markers. I have not tried to fit one, so I can't say for sure. The tallest cannon pinion has a height of 1.6mm over dial seat. It will just depend how low the 2000-1 sits below the dial for stem alignment. Hands, I would just use genuine hands as the size difference isn't that much and you could easily broach them to fit the eta movement. rolex: 65/115/20 **Please keep in mind, this is just from research that I have done. I have not bought any of these parts and tried to fit anything together, but this is probably the route I would go.

Well, to me, I get the impression of a scam. Why? Well the very first thing that I noticed when I checked out the listing is at the top of the description he shows some pictures of genuine Rolex parts. I'm thinking cool, gen parts, but when I look closer, he has tried to cover up the part numbers. And did a poor job at that. When I see stuff like that, it is always a red flag and I immediately think they are trying to hide something. Why hide the part numbers? I like how he cleverly including links to gen parts that are way overpriced to lead the buyer to think they are getting a good deal on his watch. $145 for a crown, even in gold that is a lot of money. And a link to a $285 Sub dial that has been repainted! Very clever. Some unsuspecting buyer is already thinking that the Sub they are bidding on has $400+ in gen parts just by those two references. I'm sorry, but this auction seems to hide too much for all the claims in the text. If it were me listing one of my frankens, I would make a point to show pics of every single gen part and list the details of each part. I see none of that in this auction. There isn't even a picture of the movement cased? Just that stock photo that he used on a previous auction. And watchbuff, I did see that franken that sold on Ebay a while back. I can't believe someone paid $900 for it! Gen case, dial, eta, aftermarket band, no date overlay, just the mis-aligned eta disc in the window. Ugggh! I do have to say that he is very clever in the listing. Unfortunately, someone is going to pay way too much for this watch.

Watchbuff, did you check out this franken that I built for my wife? This has a 12892, a variation of the 2892 so I was able to use a genuine date disc. Much easier to work with than the 2824-2 as far as installing a genuine date disc, but are more money. Click to see Franken Date 15200

That is the plan! Thin like cubic with proper font. I have a genuine 3135 date disc to model after. Those wholesale ones are absolute garbage! The printing is pixelated and just terrible. The cubic is a decent font and good quality print, but too large. I'm guessing this was intentional to compensate for the week mag's the reps used to have. large font + weak mag = decent replication. But if you plan on using them in frankens, they do not look right. Personally, I think they look great as I like a large date, but if you want to look authentic, you need an proper sized font to match the gen. I have the metal right now and it is pretty stiff for being so thin. The printer just has to make sure they can print on it no problem. I'm sure they can, as they print on everything. below is a scan I took of a genuine 3135 date disc and cubic overlay side by side. FYI - you can use either the gen or wholesale in a franken no problem. You just have to use a 2892 movement which is thinner and allows for more clearance between the dial and movement. You gen an extra 0.15 +/- 0.05mm clearance. Doesn't seem like much, but when your talking the tolerances of a movement, it is a lot! But who wants to drop $100 each time on a genuine disc, not to mention how hard they are to source! And the wholesaleoutlet discs! Don't even waste your time or money on them.

nice piece! another great looking job by The Zigmeister!

That is true, you really have to be looking to notice. I have a friend that whenever I show him a watch, the first thing he does is stare at the sweep for a few seconds. Don't ask me why he does this, but he is not really a watch guy, but that is the first thing he does. He does notice a difference in some of my watches though. Even the 28.8 movements have variance in sweep between models. I have a 2836-2 in a gen watch I have, and it does not sweep that smooth. a few 2824-2's that I've looked at are different as well, the franken Date I built my wife with the 12892 movement sweeps as smooth as glass, yet another 12892 that I have is choppy like my 2836-2, and yet another is fairly smooth. I attached a sweep second hand to my 2846 and it is nice and choppy! Comparing the 2846 next to the franken date, there is a definate difference, but if each was stand alone, I really doubt the average person would even notice.

I have been in contact with Lello and he has been kind enough to offer some tips on this project. I did not ask if he would create the file for me. I've just been working on it myself. The printer said he could create the file for me, but at $90/hour. His guy said it would take about two hours, and who knows if he will take the care in ensuring the fonts look correct.

Hey Nico, I'm in the middle of working on the same project right now. I've found a printer that has looked at the job and what needs to be done. He can screen, die cut the overlays from either brass or steel and everything. So far, the only hold up for me is gettting him the proper file so he can create the screen. jpg files are of no use as the final output is pixelated. I'm planning on the 3135 to start as finding a proper date overlay is next to impossible. I've been slowly creating a vector file of the scanned disc, and once that is done, I will start getting them printed. It just takes time to get it done. Preliminary costs are estimated at around $25.00 an overlay for a small run. Getting the die for cutting the metal and screen for printing is the most expensive part. I'm sure I could get them printed on vinyl for a lot cheaper, but I've been in contact with other members and they would prefer printing on metal. I have found some hardened steel sheet that is 0.06mm to give to the printer to try out. I'm also looking at the 3035 and 1570. I'm just waiting for a gen 3035 and 1570 that I bought so I can create files for those as well. Those will take a bit more work as the number progression has to be reversed in order to use for ETA overlay. What are you planning on printing on? Any other members out there who would be interested in some overlays that are printed on metal? My hope is to have them similar to the cubic overlay, nice thin stiff metal, but with the proper size fonts. Anyone else interested?

If everyone is so adamant about outing the guy, why don't you register on that board and 'out' him them. Take some initiative if you are so [censored] off at the guy. I bought one of his date discs, and he shipped it to me. Was I ripped off? Techincally no. Ethically, yes. Was I [censored] off, yes. It took over 6 months to get it, communication was terrible. He was very easy to get in touch with and answered my emails promptly right up until I clicked send on my Paypal account. The disc did show up, but it was not the quality I was expecting especially after paying 60 pounds. A few of the numbers had small bubbles in the printing, not noticable except under the loupe, but still noticable. It was one of those things that happens. I really didn't need to buy it, I just got caught up in a modding frenzy and bought it so I have to take responsibility my actions. I didn't have to send him the money. But with that said, he really should have had some business ethics and responed to my emails and sent out a quality product, especially since it cost me $110 CDN at the time. Would I out the guy? Not likely, would I stand up and give him a reference? Definately, but it wouldn't be in his favor, I can guarantee that. I suggest that if he still owes you anything, send him a message on the board. or email him. His email is published on there.