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Oh yes, make sure you clean out the inside of your case as well. Maybe if you dial is clean, but you have a few particles inside the case on the crystal, these eventually settle on the dial. yes, rodico is great, just gently touch the dial, don't push on too hard or you may leave a smudge. the orange blower is awesome too, and yes, you can use canned air, with no problem, just be careful and not blow too close. I've got a can in my office left by some computer guy. I've used it to blow out the inside of cases, and the odd dial from time to time. Just don't blow too close and in light quick bursts. just be gentle with whatever you use.

you can also use a small static brush that is designed for this purpose. Just gently brush the dial. I would avoid blowing on the dial as you may leave a bit of saliva on the dial. not good. canned air works well too. you can order them from any supply house. Dial Cleaning Brush Large Anti-static brush for cleaning dials.

It isn't that tough of a job. But if you don't feel comfortable doing it, find someone that can. Are you good with tweezers and screwdrivers? Just make sure you take your time and don't rush anything. Try not to touch any parts with your fingers, don't squeeze the parts too hard with your tweezers or they will go shooting across the room! You should also download and print out the 2824-2 chart as this will be a reference on how to reassemble the movement. It shows what order you need to reassemble. But again, if you are not comfortable doing the job, find someone who will do it for you. try this link for the technical chart: https://secure.eta.ch/CSP/DesktopModules/Vi...&DocType=DT Here is another link to assembling the hand setting mechanism: http://www.tztoolshop.com/page39.html Good Luck

Would this product work on filling lug holes on a gen Rolex case? Does it take a polish so it will match the case sides?

I'm not a fan of glue on a movement. A safer solution is dial dots. They are like a double sided tape, only stronger. Ofrei or Jules Borel sell them for about $5.00. Just make sure you do not stick them over a jewel or any other moving part or you will [censor] up he movement. They come in sheets.

A sticker? Was that really the best option? Sounds like a one shot deal to me. at least with the metal overlays, if you are off, you can easily adjust it until you have it right.

I missed the boat on those overlays, but do you mind me asking what you paid for it? Usually they are applied with epoxy or dial dots to the ETA date disc.

This collection is stunning! You can have it all for $130K + I think my favorite of the collection is the 16550 with the creme dial. Scroll down to the last watch listed. Absolutely gorgeous and now after looking at those pics, my new dream watch that I must have before I die. Click here to see the Vintage Rolex Collection

I guess is depends on how literal you interpret the word 'gay'. I've used the term in such statements as "That shirt's gay... in a grade six kind of way." Now depending where I'm at and who hears me, I can get some strange looks. Now when I say that, it really means I am taking a stab at my buddy or brother's shirt by saying it is lame, ugly, or whaterver. What does 'grade six kind of way' mean? I remember back in grade 6 or 7, that when you said something was gay, you meant it was really ugly, lame, etc. We didn't really know what 'gay' was. I too live on the left coast, and in a city that is quite open minded about being 'gay', in a grade six kind of way, or any other way. As a side note: my neighbor across the lane is gay, rides a Harley and I've seen him sporting a similar Brietling! I guess that makes the Brietling a gay watch.

Back in the day, the BIG hair days, my main was a Kramer Focus 6000 with an original Floyd Rose, not the cheap licenced out crap that flooded the market later on. I eventually moved up to a Black Les Paul custom. Still have them both as well as a Fender Jazz bass. I haven't played in years, and it is kind of a shame to let such nice instruments go unused. I have a takamine acoustic that I pull out once in a while just to strum a few chords. I'm sure all those that play have heard of this guy. Check him out on youtube. He is damn amazing! AND 7.6 MILLION VIEWS!

yeah, it is not very efficient. I was using FC express on HDV 1080i, so a not as big as true HD. But for now I'm making little clips with iMovie 08, but it is a compressed format. The jury is still out, but for little projects it is fine. It is pretty cool to upload to a .mac account and share, but I will definately need to get a better machine if I want to work in uncompressed. I did a couple movies in express and it was fine if I didn't have to do a lot of rendering. otherwise I would have to walk away for a while. my wife's computer is a 2.4 dual core with 2GB so that would work a lot better, but that is hers, not mine. haha I'm still learning the format and the program, but it is fun, especially capturing moments of the little one. But damn, do those files take a lost of storage space.

yes, I am editing HD and man does that take a lot of resourses! My processer is a G5 2.0, with 1GB ram. chugs along slowly, but still can do the work. I would like a tower, but that just takes up too much space and it is not like I'm editing as a profession. Maybe when my apple care runs out in the spring, I'll pick up a new machine. The good news is, if I don't use my apple care, my dealer applies that to the purchase of a new machine. Not that bad of a deal. And yes, if you have a mac, it will work by just plugging in, but if you want to read and write to the drive, you have to reformat to OS Extended. That way I can import all my video files directly to the external and work with them from there. I may set up the other one with USB2 with airport so I can set it up as a shared external so my wife can access it with her Macbook Pro. Or just use it as a RAID.

If you are looking for a hard drive, why not go external? I just picked up a 500GB WD mybook premium at costco for 159.99! Well, actually I picked up two. I would have grabbed the 1T, but for some reason it only had a USB connection. Not good for us Mac users. I need the firewire so I can work with my video files directly from the external.

Okay, i hope my reply doesn't insult your intelligence, but is the watch fully wound? You say you haven't worn it since April? Did you wind it before wearing or just set the time and put it on? According to the ETA tech sheet, you can fully wind by stem for 65 turns.

I am looking into getting a couple of movement holders made for direct drop into 3135 cases. These would be for ETA 2892-A2 movements. I'm not really looking at any other movements right now, as we can use the ETA enlargment rings for 2824-2, and 2836-2. I have yet to find a solution for the 2892-A2s so I guess I have to get them made. These will be exact fit for the movement and genuine case, with perfect stem alignment, proper case clamp positon, etc. I can get them made out of pretty much any material. I'm thinking brass would be a good choice. I don't know if anyone else would be interested. Right now, a one off will cost me $150.00, if I get two, it will be around $90 each. So if anyone else is interested, I can have more made at the same time to spread out the cost. Estimated cost for additional units is between $25-$35. Shop rate is $75.00/ hour, so until the first one is made, I won't have an exact cost per unit. It could take 20 minutes per unit or 30 minutes, depending on how many cuts are required. drop me a PM or reply if interested. The shop is booked until the end of the month, and I have to drop off a case and movement to get the first one spec'd.

There is probably not enough clearance for that date disc to work. It will rub against the bottom of the dial. Cubic works does have the closed fonts. Their pictures show open, but I've received closed from them. Your spacer may work, but it will probably need some work to retrofit. The crown is 24-603-0, they sell anywhere in a sealed pack from $40 - $125. I've always asked to have a crown included with my case at end of auction. It is usually an extra $30, but they are in excellent condition. The ones from jewellers tools are okay, but everytime I order one, I get it for the old style case, even when I specify for new style. so far they are batting 0/5. but they do correct it in the end, but just a pain to mail it back and wait for replacement.

I've used a 12892 in a 15200 case for Date model, I've also used a 2834-2, completely stripped down of all date funtions for an airking in a 15200 case. for a 15000, a 2834-2 will work, and if you do go with a 1500, I would recommend a 2846 movement as the sweep second will be more close to the sweep on a 1570 Rolex movement. If you go with a 1600 case, you will need a pie pan dial, and I recommend a 2846 as well. 16000, you can use 2834-2 or 2824-2.

He is actually a Canadian, and from Vancouver if memory serves me correct. I've been dealing with him for years. He used to be in Japan when I first started dealing with him.

That is exactly what they are used for. He will even admit it as well. The Asian market has a huge appetite for solid gold. They buy the SS models in other markets where Rolex is not in demand, at a discount I'm sure, then salvage the movements and fit into solid gold cases. The cases he sells are definately 100% authentic. I only wish he could supply some with no lug holes.

Hey, I know a guy, that knows a guy in Vancouver that can take care of this little problem for you. haha I've had plenty of my photos stolen when I used to do a lot of eBay business. Watermarking definately helps, as well as sending emails to the theifs and reporting.

Hi, I guess I should try to explain a little better of what I'm trying to find. As you can see from the cross reference shot of a 3135, the movement sits in the case in steps. I would like to find out a.) the diameter of that step, it is most likely the date disc holder and is probably the same diameter of a dial. b.) the diameter of the actual movement, yes I know they are listed as 28.5mm, but are they a true 28.5, or slightly smaller or larger? c.) the thickness of that step. This is the important measurement I need as I don't want it to be too short or too tall and have the spacer not fit exactly in the steps of the gen case. Does this make sense? Basically, I'm trying to make some drawing to replicate a movement holder that will fit like a gen 3135 in the case.

Thanks Freddy. Is it exactly 28.5mm? I know that is what a 12.5''' is listed as such, but when I measure the 2892 eta movement, which is called 25.6 or 11.5''', it actually measures at 26.18 mm. I also have another that is listed at 12.5''', but actual measurement is 28.36mm. and also, when I measure a 2824-2 it measures at 25.98mm, not 25.6 as listed.

Bit of a two part post. I'm wondering if anyone has the exact measurements of a Rolex 3135 movement? I've got some close measurements that I've taken from the inside of a case, but would like the measurements of the movement. The movement has a step where the dial sits. The top part steps in and I'm guessing the diameter would be the same as a dial, approx. 27.8mm, and I'm guessing the rest of the movement would be approx. 28.5mm. My case measurements on the inside are 28.04 and 28.57. here is a picture of a gen from the dial side to show what I mean. I guess it is the date disc holder that I need a measurement for, and also how thick it is, or how deep that step is. My guess is it is between 0.4mm and 0.6mm. The wider diameter of 28.5 I'm guessing is the main plate of the movement. Anyone have the measurements that they can share? What I am looking into, is getting some movement holders made for 2892-A2 movements. If I can get the exact measurements, then I can get the outside diameter of the holder cut to those measurements. I can then have the inside diameter of the holder cut to the measurements of the 2892-A2 and have perfect fitting movement holder. I have yet to get a cost, but would like to have the drawings done before a approach someone to get them made. Would there be any interest if I can get them made at a decent price? I'm only looking to get them for 2892-A2's as I have yet to find a good solution for this movement. thanks.

Gen hands can be fit, but not an easy thing to do. You can experiment by trial and error, as I have done but it is not an easy task and the cost of parts adds up quickly. A watchmaker with a lathe is the way to go to make you custom parts to accept gen hands. For a rep, not really worth it in my opinion as the cost far outweighs the benefits. If you were building a franken with all gen parts, then maybe. I've done it, but I'm a bit neurotic and seek perfection.

I don't recall it saying Tap 10 on the envelope, just part number on the envelope. I'll check the number when I get home tonight, but I tried to screw on two different crowns and neither would screw on completely. When I compared it beside the old stem, it definately looks a bit thicker. I will measure them both with calipers tonight to double check. I always remember them being marked as .90, so the 10 is confusing. This is what I ordered: 401/1029 STEM, TAP 10 LEN 16MM (FOR ETA 2846) 4.60