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I just recieved a bunch of parts for some projects, and I also ordered a new stem for 2846 movement. I'm confused. The stem I received is tap 10. I thought they were tap .90. Am I confused? did I miss something? Am I getting too much fresh air? I could have sworn that they were .90? I checked the old stem and it is .90, but the new one is 10. My crown doesn't really want to screw all the way on the new stem. I don't want to force it either. I checked the Julesborel site and all the stems are listed as tap 10. I wonder if I can still get one that is tap 90

Wow, that is a stunning watch. Thanks for posting the link! Great shots of the dial... I'm looking for some reference for lume color and I think I've found it.

Well, compared to this pic of a gen, I think my dial looks pretty good and is useful. Only thing I see that is a problem is how Officially Certified is lined up below Superlative Chronometer. It is slightly off, and the font looks a bit different. Now I could use some opinion on what to do about having this relumed. I'll obviously get fellow Canadian The Zigmeister to work his magic, but what should I do? This dial does not glow at all. the markers are just paint. Do I go for the aged vintage look as above? Or should I go for the fresh from the Rolex Service Center look with SL paint, on the dial and hands. Personally, I'm leaning more towards the fresh look, with polished case, new tube, new crown, fresh dial and hands. Where I need some help, and hopefully some of you may have some reference photos you could share. They don't have to be 1016 dials, but any vintage dial that has been replaced by RSC. I have found a couple of shots of RSC replacement dials, but one is white paint, and the other looks aged. Both are said to be RSC replacement dials. I also notice that one is printed SWISS, while the other still has the SWISS - T <25. Both hands appear to be white. I appreciate all feedback.

I'm sure that he knows what is going on with those parts, as I'm sure he knows where a lot of the ETA movements he sells end up. hahaha Otherwise he would not post this on the ETA movements page. We have no knowledge about which generic movements might fit in certain Rolex

Yeah, that little trick works great Freddy. I haven't got around to getting into the movement, but I know that the stop lever is responsible for the hack on the 2836-2 as pictured. If that part fits the base then I'm sure I can get the 2846 to hack. The part is only 5-6 bucks, so it will be a great mod if it works. Below is an oil chart for the 2846 and if you look at the base, it looks as if there is a spot for the stop lever to attach.

I used to order everything from Ofrei. Never really had a problem. Bob is an interesting character and doesn't like stupid questions, or any questions for that matter. When I used to call in my orders, I always made sure I knew exactly what I wanted and tried to stay away from questions. Especially questions like "do you think...?" Or "will it fit?" etc. He expects his customers to be professional and know what they want and are doing. He was very helpful in finding a part for me and did some research to find it and did some cross reference and everything to ensure it would work for me, ordered it himself and then called me up to say it had arrived. I'm sure he spent a good deal of time sourcing that $6.00 part. I switched to Julesborel.com only because of their website. It is great for researching and cross reference of parts, and easy to order. You can reference case parts as well. Great for finding part numbers for Rolex. They don't carry genuine parts, but most of the part numbers are listed so it helps in sourcing.

No, they will not fit, at least not without some serious modification to either the hands or hour wheel and cannon pinion. But even if you can do that, you will still have problems with the hands stack. You will have to mount the gen hour hand on the rep 24 wheel. Then your 24 hand will be the hour hand. I'm sure if you do a search, you will find out even more info, but that is just a quick answer.

Hi Freddy, Okay, this franken is a completely different animal than what you have, but it may give you an idea or inspiration. When I built this, I had no case clamps nor spacer ring so I improvised. I found an old movement ring from another watch that held the movement secure. I used the caseback to secure the movement in the case. I had to carefully file down the tabs until the caseback screwed on properly. When screwed down, the caseback put pressure on the ring and held the movement secure. I can't remember why I have (a), (B ), (c ), etc. I think it was for my description when I originally posted these pics back on TRC years ago.

How much room do you have between the movement and case? It doesn't look like much, but how about a retainer ring? It is hard to explain, but I'll post a picture when I get home of what I mean. Basically, you have a movement retainer ring that prevents the movement from sliding back and forth, and the caseback, when screwed in, applies pressure downward to keep the movement from moving up and down. I have used this method before when I did not have a spacer ring or case clamps.

Maybe you could call Jules Borel and see if they have one in stock. They are only $10.10 over there.

Yes, I have been around long enough, and probably around a lot longer than 90% of those on this board. I'm not saying I'm interested in buying one, I was just curious what people thought of what they are selling, and at that price. My first impression was the date disc sits too low in the date window which leads me to believe that it could be an asian movement. The 99.5% accuracy is a very bold statement as is the price tag. If it is in fact true... still overpriced in my books.

Please forgive me if this has been posted before... if it has, you can slap me for being too lazy to do a search. Just curious to thoughts on the reps that jewelyandwatch.com are selling. They have a daylight listed for $1950 and claim it is 99.5% to original. Any thoughts?

I guess the only way to be sure is to check when the movement is torn down. I've got an old beater 2836-2 that I will tear down to salvage the part and see if it will fit in the 2846 plate.

I've heard that there are two version of the ETA 2846 movement. One that hacks, and one that doesn't. I'm looking at one now, but it does not hack. Does anyone know if I can convert the non-hacking version to hack? What parts would be required. I've got the ETA 2846 parts chart, but don't know what parts to order, or if there are parts that make a movement hack or not hack. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and I'm sure other modders out there would like to know as well, especially if they have a non-hacking movement. Cheers!

that is too funny! reminds me of my college days, not that I would ever admit to having to gnaw my arm off at the elbow in the morning, just as to not wake the sleeping beast.

Yes, this is an ugly timepeice, at least to look at, but I don't think they had looks in mind when they designed this watch. It is the engineering that is the beauty of this timepiece. It is very ugly as far as looks, but from what I've read about the watch, it is quite a marvel as far as the movement is concerned. The new 4160 calibre. Mechanical memory, programmable countdown, Command bezel. 72hr power reserve! And it doesn't look as Fugly in White Gold. I would love to play with one if I have the chance. I know my local dealer is expecting one it, but they say there are already a couple names down for it, so it will probably be sold before it even hits the display case.

I guess I'm too picky, but when you do look at them, there is a difference, and the fact that I know, bothers me. I'm sure the average person would not be able to tell, unless it was pointed out, or they compared side by side. What is an easy comparison is the difference in color between the hands and WG dial markers. The rep hands are too white, while the WG are softer. I've compared the gen hands to the markers and they match in color and finish. Definately under a loupe there is a huge difference. The Gen are perfectly polished and finished (as long as one never, ever touches them with their fingers), while the rep hands have a lot of imperfections. also, the minute hand on the rep is a bit too long and extends past the dial markers. I have a gen set of date hands that I will install one day.

Yup, a great site with lots of helpful info. Reto has some nice write ups and reviews.

Well, I guess no one knows? Anyway, I found out the info I needed, so figured I would share, cuz that is what good members should do. The inside diameter on the cyclops 135 is 29.5mm, so the diameter of the tropic 22 is 0.1mm bigger, so that will fit, may need a bit of crystal cement? The outside diameter on the cyclops 135 is 30.7mm, so the diamater on the Tropic 22 is 0.4mm bigger, so I will have to sand off a bit to re-fit the bezel. Now to find the parts at a good price. Not an easy task.

Or, if you were a complete fool, you could buy this genuine case for $6999.00, then spend another $2-3K in sourcing a movement, dial, bracelet. At that price, you might as well pony up the extra cash and buy a genuine. Here is the gen case on ebay Genuine 16520 case It has even been refinished. Hmmm. I wonder if it is still waterproof?

Thanks Dizzle, that was my point. If they did use a 3035, the crown position would be no different than the rep as the 3035 sits lower than the 3135. The YM takes a 3135 movement, so even if they used a gen 3035, it would still not look correct. My $$$ would go toward the 2892-2 as the crown positon would be closer to the 3135.

Question in regards to everyones comment on the crown position. Are you guys talking about the alignment of the crown with the case? Would there be much difference than the current rep? Reason I ask, is the 3035 and 3135 are different. The 3035 would be similar to a 2836-2, correct? Just like the 3135 is similar to the 2824-2 and 2892-2? I know you can't fit a 2836-2 in a 3135 case, but you can fit a 2824-2 and 2892-2. But other members have reported with success that they can fit a 2836-2 in a 3035 case. So with that said, wouldn't the crown position be the same whether you had a 2836-2 or 3035? I think they only correct crown position would be with the 2892-2 rep.

I'm wondering if a Tropic 22 crystal will fit on a Rolex 160xx series case? The measurements I've received for the Tropic 22 are: OD: 31.1mm, ID: 29.6mm, Height: 4.5mm I believe the crystal for the 160xx series is Cyclopes 135. Does anyone have the measurements for comparison? I'm trying to assemble parts for a nice vintage franken project! thanks!

It is all in the finishing. There is no comparison. Highly polished white gold compared to regular polished steel. And with the mercedes style hands, the genuine hands are slightly domed and the rep hands are flat or bevelled.

Nice job. one of my favorite watches!