stilty

There is a tool made specifically for hands. It may not work for your sub dial hands, as it only goes down to 0.4mm. Bergeon Tube-Tightener Set in Wood Box This terrific, first-quality tool provides a way to conveniently tighten hand tubes, crown tubes, and case tubes the proper way: by compressing the tube all the way around (rather than simply nicking it in one spot). While a complete staking set will provide this function, this tool is considerably more convenient for a small job here and there. This is an expensive tool, but will provide a lot of utility for the serious watchmaker. The extraordinarily well-made set accomodates tubes between 0.40 and 2.60 millimeters. FB-715 $430.00

If you look closely at this picture, you can see the slight pitting on the crystal from the bug spray. It does not come off, and I now need to replace the crystal... as well as all the gaskets.

I see watchbuff wants to be a charter member. sign me up! apparently, he is still lurking here. How you doing vinnie?

Thanks everyone. The date disc is actually a cubic works. I found it in the parts drawer a while back. The printing is pretty good. Font may be a bit too bold, but at least it is proper for this watch. Open 6 and 9 fonts and proper date rotation to match ETA. I scanned it so I can make it into a vector and maybe one day get some made as they are no longer produced. Hopefully Mrs. Stilty will like it. If not, it was a fun build and probably wear it for a bit then offer it up. It is currently running +13 seconds in the past 28hrs. No point in trying to regulate it until it breaks in I'm guessing. The movement is brand new factory fresh from ETA. Oh and mr1973, the dial feet were removed. The dial is glued to the movement holder, then installed in the case. Maybe I should do a mini tutorial. And b-dog, the oyster will probably just go back in the drawer for something else down the road. It is not in the greatest condition anyway.

My first vintage Franken-Just. What do you think? The dial features dark blue sapphire markers. My wife's favorite gems, after diamonds! She's out of town with the kids for a few days, so I figured I would put it together and give it to her when I see her this weekend. It might be a bit too much bling, especially with the white gold fluted bezel that jumps out at you! I fitted it with an oyster bracelet until I receive the jubilee. I think the jubilee will be a better match to the dial and bezel. Oysters look better with smooth bezels. Here are the specs: Genuine 16014 case with WG bezel. Genuine Dial - the markers appear to be non factory Genuine Crown Genuine bracelet Aftermarket hands Vacuum foil packed ETA 2824-2 direct from Switzerland fitted in the case with one of my CNC milled holders. Any guesses on the date disc? Here are a few pics. Not the greatest quality shots, as she has the good camera with her. Once I receive the jubilee bracelet and have the better camera, I'll take some better natural light photos... ...and clean the fingerprints off the bezel! Yikes!

Reps are fairly easy to detect. Now Frankens are another story, especially if all the parts are genuine. Pretty much the only way to tell is to open the caseback. If a Franken is built with an ETA 2892-A2 movement, the manual wind is similar to Rolex and is very, very smooth and effortless, and no "whir" as in other ETA movement. There is also very little rotor noise unless you give it hard shake.

Glad to hear it isn't anything too serious or permanent! enjoy the downtime. T

Let's not forget the original Deep Sea!

Those are not the most flattering pictures and do not do this watch justice at all. This is one beefy watch, and from the other pictures I've seen, it looks great! The chunky crown guards work with the bigger case, the thick domed crystal, ceramic bezel, and titanium case back. This watch has it all. I have yet to see a great pic of the blue lume, but I'm sure it glows like a mother. The new buckle system looks pretty cool too. I agree with SD4000. This is going to be a real winner.

Already sent him a message. I later read his store profile, and he says he is a jeweler, so I'm guessing he is selling off these items for a customer? If that is the case, I would be mighty [censored] to have my name and address published, even if I didn't own the watches anymore. That is just a recipe for disaster. It won't be long for some dirtbag to go and kick down his door.

So I'm looking around eBay and happen to stumble across this seller who has close to 40 high end watches listed for sale. Obviously he is selling off his collection. A lot of Rolex, a few Paneria, IWC, Zenith, etc. Prices range from $2600 to $13000. The seller is also listing some high end jewelry anywhere from $10K to $25K. No big deal right? We see dealers, jewelers, pawn shops selling tons of stuff all the time. This guy has tons of pictures of each item, but what blew me away, is this seller, included pics and scans of his Rolex papers. You can click to enlarge, and there in plain, easy to read printing, is not only the serial numbers, but his full name and address! I look at other items, he has included scans of the appraisal papers... all with his NAME and ADDRESS! And they all match... all the same owner! I'm not going to list any of his auctions and point anyone in his direction as I seriously think this guy is asking for trouble. Can anyone say "home invasion"? Is this guy wanting to get robbed? I appreciate a seller wanting to offer full disclosure on an item he is selling, but that is madness! And out of curiosity, I google mapped his address and presto! There is his house! Unbelievable.

Eddy was great. Was fortunate to have a few beers with him when he still lived nearby. I could even order from him by phone! LOL He would never accept payment from me until I had the watch. Ever. Even with my first purchase from him. Once I had the watch and was happy, then we would square up.

That would be an amazing GTG. Too bad I'm on the other side of the continent. On a side note. Is that trophy made by Tiffany & Co? A few years ago, I stopped into Tiffany in Toronto to pick up a gift for the GF. They had the Commisioners Trophy, Vince Lombardi trophy, the NBA trophy, and few others on display. It was quite awesome! I tried to take some pictures but was quickly shut down by security.

They still do, but I think it is up to your service agent to decide if he wants to contact Geneva. And also if your service agent has a good relationship and is well known with Geneva. As with everything in life, it is "who you know".

Just curious. Wouldn't Rolex have records of what dial was installed with the case and COSC number? If someone was to install the dial on a GW, it still wouldn't be worth $200K if the watch was documented as a GW. Everything would have to match. Case #, COSC number, and dial code. But maybe I'm wrong. My guess is, someone has a DR, maybe they bought it damaged, waterlogged, etc. To make any sense of spending that kind of cash, they must have all the other parts of the puzzle. To make it worth buying that dial, they have a matching case and COSC, and all the rolex paperwork to back it up. Maybe it was a DOA and waterlogged watch to start. Salvage the case, salvage the mainplate and rebuild the movement, all you need is the dial to match the records and you now have a minty, completely original DRSD. If one can match the "original" Rolex records, then you have one very valuable watch.

Definitely buying the "seller", as well as the dial. If anyone else were to list that dial, what do you think they would get for it? $500? $1000? The fact that James is selling it drove the price up. And I agree, if this is going into a restoration and the buyer had a mint case, with the original movement where the COSC cert number matched the case serial, and it was documented at Rolex that is was sold with a RED dial! If the buyer has all those ducks in a row, then it would be worth a lot more money as the complete package.

Oh that's easy! make me a 1:1 sub case, and I'd be happy using a 2892-A2.

There are three version of the 2893. 2893-1, 2893-2, 2893-3. Each is the same base with slightly different functions. That one looks like it is the 2893-3 Technical data is HERE You may be able to order the correct parts for the 2893-2 to covert the movement to fuction with date and 24H hand, but with parts and labour, you will probably be better off just finding a 2893-2 movement.

Okay, if I understand correctly, the 1520 is a thinner movement than a 1570? Since it has the date disc holder removed? Am I correct? The 1520 sits deeper in the case? stem closer to dial? Which means, the 2846 is a nice replacement for the 1570 as the stem alignment is very close, but not a very good fit for the 1520 case. Your case is machined to accept a genuine 1520 movement, correct? So, if you don't want to spring $800+ for a 1520, how about you pick up an ETA 2801 mainplate, or a 2824-2 mainplate and drop all the 2846 parts into the replacement mainplate? This way you will have a thinner movement that will fit the case with better stem alignment, and it will still be a slow beat movement. You can also install a stop lever so the movement hacks, and convert to a two position stem. But before you go through all the trouble of rebuilding a movement, maybe test fit with a 2824-2 to see if it is a fit.

Wow nice work! Very impressive. I know that when watchmakers make new stems, they cut and finish the stem, then harden it later. That is impressive that you were able to cut the hardened steel! Off Topic: Isn't making a stem from scratch one of the requirements to receive your WOSTEP certification? If I had 30K and two years of free time, I would love to get a WOSTEP certificate.

Baby shampoo is pretty good to clean your watch. it is gentle, doesn't leave residue (as long as you rinse well), and is still effective in breaking down the oils left from sweat and your skin. One thing that I highly, and I can't stress enough, is to avoid getting bug spray on your watch! That stuff is nasty! Sure it will keep the mosquitos away, but is also is pretty hard on your watch. We were at the lake and the mosquitos were pretty bad, so I sprayed some Deep Woods Off on myself to keep from getting bites. I got some overspray on my watch and didn't think much of it. The crystal is acrylic, and it is now shot. There are small marks all over the crystal that do not come out. They look like small burns. Also, the tube gasket is toast as some of the bug spray seeped in there. I wore the watch (which was tested WP) in the pool and it fogged up right away.

My guess would it would not really be worth it.... but if I had a CNC machine I would probably want to try! It would have to be quite a machine to be able to pull it off though. Since you already do CNC work, you are probably aware that the cost of tools to cut the 904L would probably cost more than the case.

OH, and I hate those B@STARDS even more now! I just received a bill in the mail from them for Broker Fees and Duty! We received a gift basket from my aunt when our son was born. It came from the US. Funny thing is, the driver didn't ask for any COD payment or anything, just left it at the door. Now I get a bill from UPS looking for payment. They can screw off. I'm not paying it. I didn't order it, there is no proof I ordered it, so if they want funds, they can go after the shipper. It is not my problem.

Nice! I like it a lot.

I'm a stickler for the details. I tend to notice the small things. It really bugs my wife when we watch TV or a movie as I always spot inconsistencies, etc with whatever program we are watching. She keeps telling me I should be a script supervisor. haha. Anyway, enough of my issues! I'm sure that 95% of the population wouldn't give a crap, but to me I needed to find the correct springbars for the 1016. I was using the 2mm submariner springbars, but they stuck out of the lugs. (see pic in my sig) Well, I finally found a set of the proper springbars and they now sit nice and recessed in the lug holes and I think my project is now complete! Oh, and I found this cast iron hand. I figured it would make an interesting watch holder.