SSTEEL

Cool tutorial my friend. I have a Mac running OSX so out of luck there, also, out of luck on this set up too http://www.delphelectronics.co.uk/products.html Anyone know a Mac OSX alternative?

When you unscrew the click spring bright, using tweezers, carefully remove it, and you will see the click spring still in place, bit of advice for you, and something that will make things easier for you. Once you have removed the bridge, refit the screw holding the click spring in place, then using any of the above mentioned tools/items (I use a custom made oiler for this job) move the click spring towards the centre of the movement, which in turn will release the date wheel assembly. When fitting the date wheel to the other movement, do the same, remove the bridge, and replace the screw holding just the click spring in place, then using that tool of choice, refit the date wheel, ensuring its in its place keyless side runner, and then carefully nudging the click spring whilst gently turning the date wheel, and it will drop in. Then finally whilst holding the date wheel, carefully remove the screw holding down the click spring, making sure to not move it from its position, then carefully manipulate the click spring bridge into place, and refit the bridge screw, and your done .

Yes, its tricky, what I do is remove the calendar click spring bridge, and remove the complete date wheel and overlay in one go, then fitting it to the other movement, providing its a 2824-2 and not a 2836-2 (different date wheel teeth.sunken), fit the date wheel in place, and manoeuvre and manipulate the calendar click spring into position, and then the bridge.

If its clearly the wrong model, and looking at the movement it ids from what you say, then send it back and ask for the correct watch to be shipped.

Well done, looks great Really starting to take a shine to vintages now. Damn, I will never have any money left lol

I'm unfamiliar with the construction of the bezel assembly on a BB, but if its like most reps where a Octagon shaped spring is used in the inner circumference of he bezel ring to retain it, then it could be a simple case of removing the bezel assembly, and reshaping the spring so it applies more pressure, thus holding the bezel assemble more firmly.

No backdoor sales allowed my friend.

Don't toss it out until you have at least checked what movement is in it.

Trust you , Mike lol

The only thing I can think of is asking in M2M in the hope someone has a donor watch, or parts. You could always ask some of our TD's. If, and when you do get a replacement, it might be a good idea to remove them all, and bond back into place.

Still waiting to hear back from you with regards your Milguass crown.

I just received one in for modding, the bezel click rotation is nice and tight, but the bezel assembly itself is very loose with a lot of lateral play. I will be dissecting the bezel assembly to investigate. I will post some info in here when I figure out how to improve.

Try asking some of the TD's, Toro, Trevor, and Ryan next door?

Still shocked about this whole thing, its just shameful.

Welcome back to the fold, Bill. No wife, no earache mate regarding your watch impulse buys, look at the positives

Its a sad state of affairs, and the way Luthier left RWG.bz like a kid throwing toys our the pram didn't ever make sense to me, but now hearing this, things are starting to make some kind of sense.

Is that movement not the new Rolex clone movement that accepts genuine dial, days wheel, and genuine hands? My findings are that the normal Rolex clones are simply decorated 2836 movements, but the balance bridge of the one you posted is completely different to an 2836 balance bridge, plus other parts of that movement in the photo are completely different to the 2836 too.

Buy another one, and chalk it up to lesson learned I would be very interested in buying your damaged/broken Carrera, drop me a pm if its an A7750, but I feel its a cheap 21J with faux chronograph?

He need to take something lol. Now he's threatening me....

Instead of trying to keep up with the thread on all forums, the most up to date is here.. WARNING TO ALL WATCHMAKERS - AVOID MEMBER JACK218 In this RWG thread is a snippet of the last, dying emails we exchange. Remember, we was close to 200 emails over a three week period.

http://www.rwgforum.net/user/54016-jack219/ Avoid this guy from Israel, he is a royal pain in the back side. I have this evening ended an almost 200 email exchange with him regarding some work on his poor condition, new TC sub. His demands are so rude, his tone is insulting, and basically, I am warning my fellow watchmakers do not engage in communications with this tool. Please do yourself a favour, and avoid this young man like the plague!

Thanks mate, you pretty much confirmed what I had in my head, looking at the parts I could seen those grooves you mention. So far I have failed with any of the nylon gaskets I have, they are a little too wide, so will try and sand one down to the correct width. I will let you know how I get on.

Thanks for this thread, I hope you could help me with something? I have genuine parts here, like yourself, but this part highlighted below is broken, and I can't get the bezel assembly to snap into place.. Can you explain please how to press the bezel assembly on, how this nylon part works? I'm hoping I can try a crystal gasket the same size, but need to know where this part goes. Thanks in advance.

I know this is an old thread, but I want to clarify something. You cannot see the thread, its inside the crown, which screws into the tube. Those black o-rings you can see on the tube, are exactly that, gaskets.