anton

Complete stranger (or co-worker) calling you out is plainly disrespectful and exudes no class, IMO. These are the kinds of people who will "size" you up before paying attention to the watch, no matter what brand (that they know of) it is. They find it hard to believe that you are wearing a (name of brand), and not them. And how could that be? I mean, you couldn't possibly earn more than them. Even though the asker doesn't know you, he thinks you probably have a menial job of some sort, so a Fossil or Seiko suits you more. Asker believes that if he's not wearing (name of brand), neither should you. Unless, of course, he is a die-hard aficionado, then he would polite pull you aside and ask you privately. When you get asked, Corgi provided a good explanation. I mean,, the asker probably has seen reps before, but how could yours be a Canal St. special? It looks too good to be true! Thus, a question turns into a mystery. Huzzah!

Agree! But when you look at the lume markers, will that not bother you? I mean, would IWC really apply them crookedly?

I'll concede to the general consensus is that most people don't care or it does not matter to them what is on the inside, so one could say that the low-to-mid priced gens could hold a poor preceived value to their rep counterparts. But when you take value into considersation, you must consider all factors in order to make a fair comparison. Proponents of buying reps like to use HBBs as a case example where buying the rep is a "better value". I mean, it's not such a bad idea to believe that you are getting $8,000 worth of watch for all of $350 right?

RepGeek (or widely known as "SPARTAAAA!!!!!")

Even though the differences may be hard to spot, the apparent difference between gen and rep is what is on the inside, rather than on the outside. Sure, the rep SFSO or Heritage may appear to be very well made, will it survive the same strengths that the gen is used to test? The movements in both watches may be the same, but that is simply comparing apples and oranges. You can't say that both watches contain a $50 movement. How about the materials used? Can it be said that both watches use the same materials? The same quality of steel? The same oils? The same finishing? I still consider low-to-mid price gens to be a value, but only when it is purchased second hand. Comparing the values to what you can get for a rep is something that cannot be justified favorably for a rep.

Yes! I have read about two cases where that has happened; one where the winding mechanism locked up on one owner, another where the rotor was not attached tightly enough. Then again, that is less than .1% of cases.

I wonder if it's "kosher" to post a watchsmith's information right here in this forum, even more so if he's a licensed repairman with once or more of the "upper crust" manufactures. I mean, if they found out he was working on imitations of the very watches he was certified to service, would they take away his license? Maybe this information should be made private, and PM'ed only to those interested... Just my 2c. YMMV.

For me, the deal breaker was the fit and finish of the bracelet, and this is where the MBK shines. Where the CN version fails and is notorious in not only the Nautilus, but many other bracelet reps is the noticeable gap between links. The MBK version (I have the black unconnected dot dial) has very very minor, if any bracelet gaps and curves well within the contours of the wrist.

The MBK versions use a ETA 2836-2. They can easily be identified by the "swiss made" on the bottom of the dial. Reference pictures casn be found here: MBK Nautilus, History and Review

Sounds to me like a defective hour wheel or lever. Try contacting your dealer for a replacement, sicne you say it was purchased not too long ago.

Sounds like you have a problem with the chrono lever. Like the above poster, posting pictures would help. I can usually diagnose the problem from there. As for the slipping of the chrono seconds hand, if that is related to the problematic reset, then you need to have the levers checked out. If the chrono seconds hand slips after resetting the chrono, it means that your chrono hand is not inserted completely into the stem. Thus, the torque caused by the reset makes the hand "slip".

This weekend:

Consider this example: Last year (this day), A USD $298 rep is worth about 2,304 Yuan. Today, A USD $298 rep is worth about 2,089 Yuan. In order for the seller to sell his product for the same price as he did last year, his price would increase by $30 USD. Thus, what would normally cost $298 in 2007 costs $328 today.

what color is the dial on your GT? If it is white, it is less prone to caputre reflections than darker dial combos. If it is darker, then the light AR may only be effective in extreme sunlight.

Although it may put off the tastes of some enthusiasts, these new releases may mean that B&R is foraging ahead in technical evolution and is essentially a compilation of their ability to move into highly complicated pieces without having to resort to outsourcing for their movements. Of course, we'll never see a watch like this hitting the "mainstream" but we should expect some features to be carried over to future product lines.

My guess is that it uses an ETA 251.262 movement. The same one that is in the Tag Heuer F1 and like the one in the Breitling Chrono Avenger M1 (although that is Thermoline). There are both a centre seconds and minute hands. Gen retails for $2-2.5K

I have been looking for one for a couple months now... Either: I buy a Lange (7K?) IWC Big Pilot (9K?) 1.3K-1.5K Euro still sounds like a steal to me. Keep up the good work, Tourby!

The dial font is slightly off, but I guess that would be the trademark of all DSNs. You also should take note that the 7750 is not a true GMT movement. Thus, you get a slightly sunken datewheel. At least it has a pretty good DW, though. It is a good start if we've always wanted DSN to build a Contemporary PAM.

For highly complicated watches I think they are well worth the money. I've seen them first through an AD and initially thought it was an AHCI manufacture. Looked deeper and it was a highline Citizen! Do I still love it? Yes!

So far, so good. I like your take on the Beobachtungs-Uhren (or is it Fleiger?) of the past and cannot wait for the end product! But I do have one question: Is it possible to mod the 6497 to display centre seconds?

You know you've got a good thing going when you can have your two loves unite in holy matrimony... So, I raise a toast you: Cronsell, Mrs. Cronsell, and Watch(es)!

I was an owner of a Blackbird (Big Date) and the bezel screws (other than the rider tabs) are just a vanity touch to it. They can be screwed, but they don't become looser and/or tighter wth movement. Also, the screws seem to be glued. Third, the bezel is probably pressure-fitted.

Many thanks! Now I am propelled in the search of one!

A great winder will run up to as much as you're willing to spend on it. The downfall of some lower-end models is that it doesn't rotate the 7750 watches far enough to get the rotor to spin. In case you were wondering, the 7750 winds up when the rotor spins in a counterclockwise (CCW) direction. Even when sometimes you hear the "free-spinning" motion of the rotor running when you shake your watch, believe it or not, it is likely spinning clockwise (CW) rather than the other way around. Since I own alot of 775x-based chronographs, I found it useful to own a Bergeon Cyclotest "one direction only" winder. But those things run about $500. On the upside, they are used to for testing winding effectiveness and can be utilized in both horizontal and vertical positions. If you're working with a limited budget, might I suggest a MTE winder? They are quality products and their winders start at only $80.