PAMman

This is definitely not a genuine crown for a hand-wound watch. I have one and it looks nothing like this. The gen crown has only one seal at the base of the stem and is sprung. Palp's crown looks very similar and is stepped where the genuine is internally sprung. The genuine crown tube has an internal seal similar to the rep setup. I have never got the hang of posting pics but I could email a pic of the genuine article to another member if someone could post it for me.

I read this and I just had to point out that the advert in the Accessories section was using a rep to sell straps. Obviously none of these idiots could recognise a rep when it was placed in front of them - the advert photos had passed their moderators.

I have a picture of a genuine 'B' series 029, taken from the Paneristi.com sales forum. This includes a shot of the caseback and the rep is so accurate. However I can't figure how to post photos but I can email them to someone who may be able to post it for information.

I agree that the dial is 'off' but only in the A, where the crossbar is too low. However the numbers are closer (in a tighter circle) on the gen 'A' series, 'T' dial only. The rep watches replicate the 'B' series watches with the L dials where the wider number spacing is 100% correct. Please don't be put off by this detail as this is a common misconception regarding the 029 and 063. Get the datewheel, Palp crown and cyclops and, based on the older 2893 rep, you will have the most accurate, top quality Panerai rep. I love my 029. The best thing about these is that few Paneristi will have seen a 'B' series in the flesh and you are highly unlikely to be called out anywhere.

Great comparison pics. I have always been wary of the modified movements, on grounds of reliability, combined with the fact that the mods aren't totally convincing anyhow. For that reason I have concentrated on the earlier solid caseback models which are most sought after by genuine Panerai collectors. All my reps have unaltered Swiss movements and these have been totally trouble free. However the needle version seems to be well finished. I know that there have been quality issues with some of the modifed movements but has anyone identified how many different versions of modified movements exist and which have the least problems?

Looks excellent and I want one. Only solid casebacks for me. A crown, a datewheel and a Swiss 7750 and I will be 'set'.

If you change to a solid caseback (A - D series and 'B' is the most available rep) then your 'thin' crown guard is correct. The thicker CG was only introduced in the 'G' series watches so the E & F also had thin CGs but with display backs and the swan neck movement. Keep your dial and CG and get a B series solid back. Should be approx 25$. Try Josh or River. Sapphire crystal available from Davidsen - check with him for cost. Also he may have the correct caseback too.

Just remove the small screws and pull the sections off the threaded tubes which are fixed to the other side. However be careful when reassembling as only the outside of the outer links are polished so don't build them internally in the bracelet. Otherwise you will have to pull it all apart again and the polished surfaces will be scratched. Take this opportunity to rebuild the bracelet so that the screws are all on the same side just like the gen.

Excellent watch and reviews. I had looked this on Josh's site and turned it down because of the SS case - I hadn't noticed that a Ti version was now available. A 'must have', particularly with that crown and dial. I wonder how difficult would it be to fit a Swiss 7750?

Cracking watch and great photos. I have the 2893 version and a Palp crown ready to fit, together with a bigger cyclops and Jimmy's CG, as soon as I get Finepics' new Datewheel.

A gen caseback would be a great addition, but I don't think that it will fit the rep case. AFAIK the pitch of the threads is different on the reps parts. However, the caseback should be available from Watchco if you want to try it.

Looks really great. I have a genuine (Watchco) date version and can confirm that these are really nice timepieces. If you are opening yours again, can I suggest that you use a small spec of mat black to remove each of the white minute markers to the outside of the 5 minute lume markers. These are an obvious giveaway on the fakes and are referred to as 'Stubbies' by the enthusiasts. Wear it well.

I have a similar PR problem with my Porto Panda. It would run all day on my wrist but stop within 30 mins of taking it off, despite hand winding in addition to the auto winding. Mine is with The Zigmeister at the moment to transplant a standard 7750 into it. This will mean no running secs and an hour counter at 6. I can choose to either leave the chrono running constantly or not, but at least I will have a working timepiece.

Most reps are not cleaned or polished after machining. A good polish with a cleaner such as 'Autosol' helps enormously.

Try this link for a few phone calls live on Irish morning radio. http://www.johntedwards.com/2006/10/15/lit...rl-prank-calls/

It is a reasonably straightforward set-up, but fiddly if you only have 2 hands. The '12 o'clock' end of the bracelet attached to the clasp at a point where there are 3 holes, giving 3 options for adjustment. When the clasp is fully open and extended, the outer hole is the shortest setting and the inner longest. The bracelet is attached via a 9mm springbar and you need to use a blunt pin to compress the springbar. You may need to do both sides at once, with the great risk of losing the springbar as it flies across the room (that's how I know it's 9mm). The extent of the adjustment is approx a half link so check where you are before you start. If it is the middle setting now the you will only have a quarter adjustment from your current setting, or 3/4 if you also add or subtract a link.

The gen Aquatimer was Ti but AFAIK the rep was (is) SS only.

Please look at River's sub with the Asian 'ETA' copy.............isn't the minute hand thicker than the one normally used on the Swiss ETA powered reps? This might be an indication that the hands have been specifically made to suit this movement, possibly because thay are different from the standard ETA fit. If that's the case then a movement swap will not be straightforward, similar to the 'new' 28,800 Asian 7750. Grrrrrrrrrrr

This would be a great buy, only if the hand sizes are ETA fit. If that's the case then I would junk the Asian movement and replace it with a gen Swiss 2892A2. That really would be an 'Ultimate' PO. We need to know more about the movement specs. If it turns out that it uses some odd-ball size of hands that really is a step backwards. For this reason I'd far rather have an old Asian 7750 (21,000) than the newer 28,800 7750 whch can't easily be swapped for the ETA version. One of my main gripes about reps.

I'm still in there with my order. As time passes I may need more rather than less.

I've just ordered an orange 45.5 'Ultimate' from PT. I have a black SMP (both gen and rep) so the orange seemed the way to go for me. I suppose it depends on what you already have in your collection.

Accurate T SWISS T dials for Marina and base (001 & 002 or 004 & 009 etc).

The 7753 movement will not have the 'too deep' date issue. That only occurs when the 7750 has transfer gears inserted on the dial side of the movement to change the subdial layout to the 7753 layout. In that case the 7750 movement, together with its datewheel, is separated from the dial by the additional gears which acts as a spacer between the movement and dial, thus placing the datewheel further back from the dail than it ought to be. The 7753 is a standard '3, 6, 9' layout so the dial will fit tightly on top of the movement.

Yes, it has worked for me. Which caseback are you replacing?

Please count me in for one for my 029. Thanks