Watchmeister

I heard back from the CNC person and unfortunately I am going to have to find another person. The owner of the shop couldn't have been nicer and spent a couple of hours analyzing the requirements. He concluded he didn't have the appropriate machine. In spite of the fact he does a lot of hi tech stuff he doesn't have any machine above a 4 axis. He let me know I need a 6 axis machine (suggested Citizen "Screw" Machine)and that it would require being able to to take 2.75" steel bar as feed. That is a 10,000 lb+ $150,000 machine.He is going to try and find someone in his neck of the woods but otherwise I am on the prowl for another CNC shop. But at least now I know what equipment is necessary. And thus the saga continues....

Great watch. Truly a classic. Jakob is on here and geeks. Just PM him. On the lume color I am hoping to meet up with someone who has one but I truly believe it will have C3 as there was not a lot of variation in the C series luminor. That is what I chose on mine. Finally, no AR on the crystal. I have a couple of gen crystals for the 29/63 and neither have AR.

Great pictorial review. It is interesting because the thing that screams out rep to me first and foremost is actually the hands. This was my issue with the 253 as well. But it can be fixed using the same paint we used on the FM conquistador hands back in the day.I would be curious as to whether the dial lettering is the correct color as well.

A man after my own heart. I still have both the franken (can't get it off a relative's wrist) and the gen bought from another forum member a couple of years ago.

I don't know the threading but I know it can be done. Ziggy did it for me a number of years ago and the threads are still holding nicely. And no, I don't know what he did.

Thanks for posting this. Very interesting and I have to second another vote for the canon pinion cap.

I would guess moisture as well. If you can't get to a watch smith here are a couple of home remedies which have worked for me which avoided removing the movement and dial but it depends on amount of moisture and level of seal at the various entry points: - Open the crown and put next to a blow dryer at a reasonable heat. If there is not too much moisture and the leak came from the crown in the first place this may work - Screw off the case back and pull out the crown and either light blow dryer again or put in a baggie with that "salt" dehumidifier that comes with cameras But I would suggest you send it to a competent watch smith since something is obviously not properly sealed.

Actually the cost relates more to the amount of time rather than the lume. A PAM 196 (for instance) takes a much higher level of skill than say stick markers. And of course a sandwich dial is the dream because you just slab on the lume on the under dial. Specify C3 Super Lume (if that is the correct color for a 104) and you will get great luminosity.

Mickey- It looks great. Congratulations.

Very nice. The Erfurt work is always fabulous.

RG=Ziggy

There are more dial choices with the seconds at 12 and you have correct functionality. Movements are potluck. I am with Theo that you you should plan on getting it serviced if going that route. Seconds at 9 although incorrect functionality (which is a deal killer for me) has better aesthetics. The case profile is more accurate. The date placement is better (even versus the newer seconds at 12 version with the steeper bezel giving the illusion of better date placement). And as people say it is far easier to Franken the seconds at 9. I guess where I would come out if I were going to buy one with no intention to franken I would go with seconds at 12 and get it serviced.

These are the correct movements. There is no correct case - the recipe starts with the case redo - removing the case tube, plugging the original crown hole and then re-drilling that little bit lower. Then depending on the rep you start with you can use the movement with either gen dial only or gen dial and tachy ring. It is a great project but you have to have someone who can do the case alteration and make a movement ring.

I was out at a car dealer today and was talking to a very knowledgeable salesman. We started talking about watches when he noticed the 28 I was wearing. The discussion started with Panerai which he owned a couple as well as every well known rep brand including recent purchases like a Hublot and even a UN Marine picked up last week. Sound familiar? This has only happened to me once before. In the off chance you are a member here shoot me a pm.

Thanks. I had totally forgotten about him and his 6263's. What is the movement in that watch?

Very pretty watch. What does EE stand for?

P- I keep coming back to your pics. The combination of the project and your photo skills is just unbelievable. -W

Edrep- I would contact Jakob. That sounds like a very nice watch. Here are a couple of whites from my end - 03T and 188:

Isn't that sucker dead? That is what you get for messing with the Chinese (and us).

Holy cow! Ubi - Absolutely stunning. I am a very lucky boy. Will catch up with you later but I just gotta say - fabulous build from the most generous guy.

Tx- Very nice project. Wear that one well. Wolf- Those $1500-$2000 straps had an original price of $175. You just had to be there.

You have it exactly right. Irrespective of what you do with it you are talking about the lowest value PAM other than basic radiomirs and the bead blasting lowers the price.

Both look great. Wear those well.

Yes Ziggy took care of everything. Your specs are very similar to mine. In fact better I think.

Ahh, the truth comes out. I am glad I kept mine. I do think the value varies. I have been offered $100+ for a classic four liner. Other variants - folks have little or no interest in. I am keeping the few I have as they are works of art and I know the time Ross spent developing them. And yo never know when you will come upon that stem wound non-alarm.