bertieng

There must have been something wrong with the brains of those designers for this watch at CS. Is it a toy? Wonder if they have scored any sales yet.

Just too many ROO variations. AP is really overdoing it. Some of the models simply look outrageous. Where is the old day Royal Oak prestigious status gone?

Hard to believe someone will put a 9K watch modded into this condition. It has lost its reselling value completely. If it is rep it is a different story.

You can try VRF as well if you are ready to pay the price.

With a million thank, Freddy. So the cosmetic difference is almost indistinguishable. As long as the screw portin onto the case is the same then 402/502 are interchangable.

Hi Freddy, Thanks a lot. You are always the forst one to answer my queries on the Rolex issues. When you say screw portion, which part are you referring to? the one lock onto the case, or the portion on the upper part of the pusher? Cheers.

Any idea if the pushers of 16520 (24-402)and 116520 (24-502) are interchangable? Should there be any spec difference? The Daytona experts please chim in. Thanks in advance.

It's funny that we have always been after the date window/glossy/matt issue of the dial which I feel only plays a small part of the flaw when considering the actual appearance of the hour markers. It is an immediate tell by looking at the metal rim of markers the dial/watch is fake. The thickness of the metal rim is simply just too much as compared to the gen. This is the same case as with the LV Maxi dial - even with the Noob dial or the upcoming WM9 LV dial, the markers are all wrong. There used to be a very accurate Maxi markers for the LV in the old days, and now it is nowhere to be found anymore.

Thanks a lot Stilty. If I go for the 2824, does it mean it has the 0.4mm spacer? Or I need to use the one comes with the 2836? Does it make sense if the 1.76mm HW is used, it pairs up with the 2.45mm CP, or the 2.95 should be the better option? Cheers.

What I am thinking is actually modding the ETA comes with the rep. It always seems to me the cannon pinion and hour wheel is too short to give good clearnce between the hands and the dial. The spacer actually has to be made sitting higher to give a free turning of the dw with the overlay added, the overall thickness is bigger than the standard ETA dw alone. These taller pinions are actually available at Cousins. Any more advices please?

Am I correct that it is better to have a higher pinion and hour wheel to give a good clearance between the hands and the dial considering the dial is sitting higher with the dw overlay in place? If yes, what should be the right parts? ETA has the choices of : Cannon Pinion 1.8, 2.45, 2.95mm Hour Wheel 1.76, 2.0, 2.26mm Can the Sub experts chim in for some advices. Thanks in advance.

Not a 7835, but a rep 7836 does exist. This was listed in the bay some time ago, and quite a number of people actually got fooled. I was nearly one of them.

Thanks for all the kind advices, guys. BTW, what should be a "reasonable" price for Swiss VJ23?

Need some advices from the vintage Daytona expert. May I ask if the DW Daytona housing the mystery movement can go for a direct swap with a VJ23? Is the subdials spacing and stem alignment the same as the mystery movt? Any other mods is needed apart from the potential necessity of grinding the inner rim of the case to fit the VJ23? Any kind comments would be most appreciated.

Sorry to hear. That's why I still keep my hands away from the sec@12.

Thanks a lot freddy, this is exactly the potential problem I have been thinking if I go for the project.

Thanks, but I tried cape cod before, it is not suitable since hands are not SS rather they are kind of brass with plating. Cape cod will remove the plating leaving the hands with brass colour.

BTW, is it possible to put an ETA, say 2846, into an aftermarket case with gen. spec fitting the 1030?

Working on a new project. Wonder if there is any ETA shares the same dimension/stem position to that of the cal.1030. Shall a 2824-2 work? Any advices from the experts? Thanks.

Is there any way/method that the scratches on the wtach hands can be removed/polished up? A great looking watch with scratched hands looks just simply awful. Thanks for any advices in advance.

Very good review. Looking forward to your mod tutorial. Is this V4 coming from the collectors in this Forum?

Absolutely stunning!!! Guess the one whoever he/she is will only take the picture in the bank's safe. Can't imagine anyone is keeping such collection at home unless his/her house is guarded by troops.

At least the seller gave the money back to you. You are lucky.

Any repair experts here can advise how to attach replacement dial feet onto the dial. I know epoxy may do the job, but then the biggest question is how to ensure the feet is attahed onto the correct positions in line with the feet holes on the movement. Take an example say ETA2836. Thanks for any good advices in advance.

The case is definitely wrong. You can tell from the space between the markers on the dial and the rehaut. The dial is bad as well if you look at the position of "T SWISS T". Anyhow, if it really house the true gen. 1575 GMT movement, it is well worth it as the 1575 already cost this money.