vric

The rep one (the newer) is actually quite good. I received mine from Ruby.. Impressive quality if I compare with other Rep strap.

A Panerai 177h... Never liked Panerai. Still don't like them, but I have a strange feeling I will have one on my wrist I won't ever buy any Rolex.

I second that.. they look great !

Yes, the H2 is a very capable camera.

Yes if light isn't a problem, else the Iso suck big time on the FZ20-FZ30 and FZ-50 I was considering getting this one too. VERY good lens, but it just felt bad in my big hands (handgrip and shutter position) so I got the Canon S3. (now I wish I had the S5 for the flash shoe)

I wouldn't say no to a normal Skyland too

As far as I know, Hublot don't make any BB with anything other than rubber strap

The F (aperture) is how big the lens will open to take the picture. The higher the number, the smaller it will open. What it's doing in picture is: - A low F (lets say 2.8 here since his Lumix is doing this, but you camera might have a 3.5 or even higher number as minimum) will open quite big and allow a lot of light to enter. This will produce a sharp picture for what is in focus, but not what is in front or on back of it. So, on his picture, you see the watch is clear, but the background is blur.. this is produced by a low F. - A hi F (lets say F8 for the example, but know that most DSRL can do F22 or even more !) will open quite smaller, allowing less light to enter. You picture will then be darker (you will have to adjust how long you take the picture.. lets say you are at 1/60 sec at F2.8, you might need 1/2 sec at F8 for the same picture). What a Big F will allow is getting a LOT of details in front and back of the subject in focus. So in the end, if you have to have maximum clarity all over your picture (the subject + background) you will use a big F number. If you wish to have the watch dial in focus, but the bracelet and background blurry, a very small F will do that. Finally, just keep in mind that you are playing with the Deep Of Field of your focus and the higher the number, more detail you will gain, but you will also need more light if you don't wish your picture to be darker. Hope I'm clear.

I always shoot at bigges F too (F8 for my Canon, F22 for my Nikon) If I want the background to be blurred, I do it in post production Also, I use Hoya Macro lens, which are WONDERFULL for insane closeup, but eat DOF like crazy. It's why I use a very hi aperture

Polarizing filter.. the UV is simply a protective one (aka useless) Don't forget, you will have to add more lighting to your picture (or have a longer exposition) since the Polarizing filter will cost about 2-3 stop. Polarizing filter eliminate reflection from angle (not strait). You can adjust the effect with the ring on the filter.. you will have to look closely to your LCD or do some test and error shot before getting the best shot. Since the Polarizing is a dark filter, it will also darken your picture, so, as I said, you will need more light or open your aperture / shutter time, You NEED a tripod if you shot indoor with this.

Humm Photoshop is magic, but don't do miracle if the original picture is so "low quality"..

Already done this trick.. Why did I sold my quartz Aquaracer 2 weeks ago euh?

Budget (aka girlfriend) allow me only a watch a year and I just ordered a TT Navitimer.. But trust me, I will get this one this fall Quick question: Is the caseback engraved + painted or just painted ? If it's just painted, it will be blank in few weeks. (My Broad Arrow have this problem, even if it's engraved + painted)

Agree. I love the Portu, but too scared about the movement ..

Stop with all those pictures Bytor.. you are torturing me !

$500, real tourbi and very nice looking. Congrats, it's a really nice watch ! Seriously, at this price or a bit less, I would be tempted.

Just for fun: You aren't alone. I have a shitty Tag rep with 21j Asian movement that do the same exact thing. (Came directly with this problem) The hand don't touch anything. I played a bit with the movement and still haven't found a solution.. Mine stop at 48-52s

How about simply say: This site like scam? Those Watch (aquaracers) are Asian movement or Quartz at best that you will find under 80$ from Silix. They don't have Sapphrire crystal neither. It's the cheap version we all know for a while. For that price, you could get the new 7750 version which is MUCH better. The 31 jewels Zenith movement is 100% a scam. This movement worth over 1000$ alone. Scam Scam Scam ! Pour les fran

Enough for me to stay far away.. How it look ? it look funny since every hands are wrong

Euh.. Maybe because we don't have any other Chrono movement and the Manual Seagull can't be used for that kind of Rep ? Don't get me wrong, I surely hope the new A7750 is better. I just ordered my first one after having fears of it for the last 3 years. But let's face it, it's not because the rep makers know it's a good movement, it's because there is nothing other. Once they have the money in their hands, they don't care if the watch die 10 minutes after or not..

Vric is now saving money.... again.... How about a group buy for this fall ?

You don't understand.. We talk about the INSERT, not the bezel itselt. In other word, the 45 writing don't lineup at all with the 45 Marker of the bezel (on yours it's obvious)

Hummm. the Blue SS version is sooo... My Quartz Aquaracer is sold, now this one will be mine by the end of the year for sure (but again, $320 for a Tag rep... outch) Edit: Btw the Bezel insert is misaligned on the Blue and Black version picture.. OMG and this is a tricky bezel to work with, I did it on my quartz.

Fake Chrono, Fake Tourbillon.. This is ugly !