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Hello, I am soon to be buying my first rep, and I really like the PAM177. I tried to buy it from Pure-Time, but it seems as though my bank won't allow it. I want to make sure that if something goes wrong, my bank will cover it. Pure-Time doesn't allow Paypal, so I had to search for another source that does. I found Andrew's site, which seems to allow Paypal transactions, but I couldn't find the same watch as the one I saw on Pure-Time. On Pure-Time, I was going to buy the Noob Ultimate PAM177 for $288, but what seems to be fairly equivalent to that on Andrew's site is the H Factory PAM177 for $258. The specs seem identical, and the watches look identical, but I'm fairly new to this. I heard the noob 177 was great, how does this one look? trusty-watch.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_49&products_id=8700 Is there a reason why it's less expensive? If so, should I go for this one from Andrew, or should I bite the bullet and just go for the Noob one on Pure-Time? Thanks

Hello, I'm about to buy my first rep, and I'm torn between the PAM111 Noob V3 and the Noob PAM177. I'm leaning towards the 177 because I like the brushed titanium and I think I prefer that to the very shiny polished case of the 111. However, I know that the 111 V3 is supposed to be an excellent rep, is the Noob 177 as good of a rep and as reliable? Also, I am planning on getting the rubber strap, but I'm worried about the rubber breaking at the lugs (I don't know why), should I be worried about this? Here is the link to the 111 that I'm considering: pure-time.com/product/pam111-n-v3-noob-best-edition-on-black-rubber-strap-with-pre-v-hands And the 177: pure-time.com/product/pam177-n-noob-best-edition-on-black-oem-rubber-strap Or is there a better 177 rep around? Thanks!

Hi all, i'm new and have taken the time to browse the forums. After much research I ordered an Omega LMPO from Noob through Puretime yesterday. The website is now down, is there any way to contact them to check up on my order? I have had no confirmation or anything although the money has been taken off the credit card. Thanks in advance.

Hi everyone, I'm looking for a Panerai 111 N-series V3 noob? Don't hesitate to contact me. Many thanks

Hi everyone! After reading several reviews regarding the Noob LMPO replica, I was really to pull the trigger but am having a hard time finding someone who has them in stock. I also recived an interesting response from Joshua at PC stating: "Hi This is out of stocks.. The stocks are all flawed and bad quality ..maker is forced to call back the stocks cos no one wants it . Dont consider it . it is very badly made." Any input/insight would be great appreciated!

I was searching for a Omega watch and I found this forum. I am glad to see that I have found this place before making any investment. I will read the reviews and will use the search option a lot before starting very basic questions to all members... saying Hi to all Mayukh

Hey fellas just received my Noob LMPO and I'm in awe!This is hands down the best Omega rep I have seen in my plus 20 years in the rep game!It surpasses BP CrPO in fit, finish, weight, AR, crown tube assembly, bezel, insert, dial, pear placement, etc and is on point with the gen. I'm very impressed at what noob has done despite the initial batch with the poor dials. The only cons I would say is sizing the band is a bear!The pins are super tight and I recommend taking it to a professional jeweler unless you have an hour or two to spare, patience, and a very good watch repair kit. Also the divers extension could be tighter and does come loose occasionally. Overall this watch is a go and the best Omega rep out there to date! I opted for the Asian ETA although Swiss is available as well from Puretime. Highly recommend pick one up. Enjoy to the max!

Hello all! Earlier this week I bought my first Rolex replica after a long (long long long long long) time searching, reading and asking questions. Please welcome my Rolex Submariner Ceramic Noob V1. If this looks boring, and it probably is, just skip to the pictures! (i'm sure they will do some justice!) Why Did I Go With The V1: Trust me, I know the V2 is out! But if I were to buy it and spend the $300+, I only wanted to buy it new with a Asian clone mvnt. Pureti.me was the only person I was talking to about Stock availability in the V2, and they kept telling me 2 weeks until they get it in... 1 week passed, 2 weeks passed, 3 weeks passed and still no stock for them. So I decided to spend less money on a V1 and live with the flaws! It has nothing to do with the differences between the V1 and V2, I simply bought it since I was eager to have my first rep Rolex! My First Thoughts: I definitely never noticed how white Rolex' lume applicator was until I went in a local Rolex store and took a peek. By the looks of it, the V1 doesn't have many flaws... Okay maybe if you know your watches and get in its face then you can tell the flaws, but the quality of this watch is amazing. Flaws I've noticed w/ out Having to go Back to the Books: By this, I mean what I noticed myself that differed from my genuine Rolex research without having to go back on the Forums and ask questions or search for differences of my V1 to the Gen. It seems like the flaws are minimal. I bought this watch via M2M and the previous owner did a Bezel paint mod and waterproofed and tested. With that it is very gen-like already. However I did noticed the minute markers do not reach the reheut, the 'm' in '300m' is not spaced away from the '300' enough and not italicizes enough. (I have not done research on the following so don't judge me). --> the pearl is definitely off on this one. It is centered to the triangle, however, if you can tell in the following pictures - the previous owner must have accidentally brushed the paint on the pearl while trying to do the bezel paint mod. This is not that big of an issue to me as I am currently searching for a replacement Bezel + Pearl. As for the bezel, I don't know much about the difference with the gen. ceramic and rep. noob ceramic so I will let you all be the judge of the. The bracelet feels light to weight but the fit and feel is as comforting as a leather strap. Ok maybe I'm exaggerating... The brushed S/S is a nice look but the 314L definitely does not compare to Rolex' 904L S/S uses. I can already notice some wears and marking just from moving the adjustment clasp up and down. The date-magnifier gets a lot of reflection and does not look gen-like at all when taking a close look, or even when trying to take a picture of the watch outside. From what I remember, I will need to have the mag AR? coated. Future Expectations (modding): - I don't know if it would fit, but I'm thinking of buying a Noob V2 bracelet from another member who has an extra one lying around and try to fit it in. - I definitely want to replace the ceramic bezel and pearl on this one, something doesn't look right to me and I can't put my eye on it! From here I will need to do some more research on modding a Rolex to decide what else is necessary for mine to look more gen-like, but I will definitely appreciate any suggestions! The main reason I wanted to write this review: I wanted a better eyes opinion. Not because I can't live with it, I love it, but I would like to know what you noticed that I haven't. This will help me in the future when buying Rolex. Do you think there are major differences between the Noob V1 and Noob V2?: No, honestly a replica watch is a replica watch, each will have its own flaws, they will never be spot on but like we all say, buy it if you can live with its flaws! And I'm still living. . . . . _____________________________________________________________________________________________ Now for the close-up shots. Bezel Close Up (paint mod outcome) Pearl Close Up (I believe you can see the paint on Pearl.) Direct View of Dial Well, for now that's all. I look forward to reading your comments, replies, remarks or suggestions! Thanks for looking

My little collection. Do not judge strictly...

Here's a dial on the bay that I am thinking about buying http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-dial-for-steel-or-white-gold-Rolex-Submariner-/331034919809?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d13380381 I need to know; would this fit the Noob V2 SubC or BP ? Also, I don't have a watch-maker so who should I go to to put this together with the Sub i end up buying? (i.e i live in NY) How much would it cost to pay someone for replacing a dial with this? THANKS

Hi chaps, I'm relatively new to Omegas but have found one that I love and am hoping you might be able to assist me with a few noob questions! I've read through pretty much every related thread so hopefully they won't be too painful. Big thanks to everyone for the info/reviews, particularly Cougar and Khashayar. This will be my first rep. I came to RWG for a Breitling Navitimer but the inaccuracies and the fact that there will be a new model in circa 6 months put me off. The Omega model I'm looking to purchase is this one on Trusty: http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_114&products_id=11114 Firstly, is this model the new rep from the noob factory, or the older one from BP just updated with a new strap? I understand the noob one will be of higher accuracy and that there has been a delay in their rep coming out. If this is the BP one, would you advise I wait? This one looks pretty damn good to me! Secondly, is there anything I should keep an eye out for when it comes to QC? I've seen that the pearl being as close to centre as possible in the triangle is something that can vary and also the straightness of the '12' marking. Is there anything else I should ask Andrew to try to avoid for me? I'm a bit of a perfectionist so would like to pick up the best possible version. Thirdly, could anyone advise what the correct box would be for the gen of this model? I'd quite like to pick one up to go with it and found the following two on Trusty. Wooden: http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_102&products_id=2056 Leather: http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_102&products_id=727 Lastly, it may sound ridiculous but for clarity what is the correct term & acronym for this model? I've seen a large number of acronyms (CrPO, POLM, ti) related and also some numbers, e.g. 300. From what I understand, this model is made from titanium, has a ceramic bezel (on the gen) and is made from titanium - does that make it a POLMCrTi?! Many thanks in advance for the help/patience, much appreciated.

Greetings, anyone from Msia? Newly joined, need guidance on rep. I have some queries that need inputs and thoughts from you guys if anyone mind sharing - Anyone (specifically from Msia) has any experience with Trusty Time? Like the quality, price, delivery satisfiable? Do they look very similiar to genuine? *I'm looking for an AP (navy or bumblebee or panda) and a Hublot BB Steel Ceramic - BTW, why AP bumblebee wasn't labelled "BASE" but "TACHYMETER" in the inner yellow ring? and it doesn't has a forged carbon casing right? will there be a new breed of reps or any possibility in ordering the parts stated above? Cheers ~~~~

So I have been lurking here for quite awhile and I think I am ready to make my first move in the rep world. I've decided I want to run a Breitling Skyland Avenger in graphite, now that I've made that decision I need to narrow down which model is best as always I know they're are going to be pros and cons to all of them. From what I've seen the v2 updated is the best version. These are what I see from Andrew with SS bracelets, please give me your advice on which one is the best and if the best is available somewhere else where? http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_137&products_id=9897 http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_137&products_id=3112

Hello to all. New member here but not a newbie. I've been in the rep world for a few years but no way an expert like most of the crew here. Bought the noob IWC Sport for Good from Mark at Timeshops. Service was great and he responds well. Read a lot about how great this watch is, and I'd been to the AD to check it out. They had the regular Invenieur in black without the solid caseback (could see the movement), and after loads of research pulled the trigger! Watch arrives in 10 days and first impression is Woah!! An awesome piece if you like a dressy look. Dial and hands well done, close to gen. Hands look good and the movement on the Swiss is impressive. The dome is a little less than the one I saw but barely noticeable. Did I say great movement!! The blue color of the dial screams quality, and the strap, while nowhere close to gen is better than many reps. Power reserve clocked at 24hrs, and keeps good time. So what's bugging me? The caseback has engravings from the Sports for Good Foundation. The gen seems to have a deep/dark engraving (first pic). The one from Puretime has a similar look (second pic). Mine seems to have a white-ish, almost printed engraving (third pic). Reached out to Mark who said the factory makes one quality for the Swiss version (450 bucks +). I've sent him Puretime's pics. This is the biggest tell on the one I got. Else super-rep, but not really super if this is different from gen. Any thoughts guys? Did they pull a fast one? From the pics the difference is quite obvious, unless (a) I have to scrape off the white coating! or ( this is how it's supposed to be on the gen/super-rep and the pics show different. Comments welcome!

anyone knows where can I find a complete set of silver hands for Datejust? it's for my first building project of a vintage datejust. thanks

Greetings all! Been lurking for a few days and wanted to say hello. I am a professional photographer from NY and am starting a new hobby. I am sure I will be addicted to reps soon enough. Best, NinjaTurtles

Hi all, just joined up & am blown away by all the info on RWG. I'm not as hardcore as most of you seem to be, I just love watches, & would love to own the gen article, but simply cannot afford to. I promise not to ask stupid questions without searching first.

Hey guys, I just received my Noob Factory PAM005 in the mail and I wanted to do a first impression review of this watch! As with my review of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo SS/SS White, I'm reviewing this rep not on the basis of accuracy compared to the gen, but just as a watch on its own. Two weeks previous, I booked my flight for an overseas trip to visit my mother. I thought to myself Hmmm, what watch should I wear while overseas? (It appears that I seem to purchase watches whenever there's an upcoming event in my life ). So I looked around for a while and decided to get a Panerai! I hopped onto Andrew's website and placed an order for a Noob 005. The Panerai 005 features a 44mm dial featuring sapphire crystal on a stainless steel case. At 15mm in thickness, this is not a small watch! With the leather strap in place, the watch weighs in at approximately 147.75 grams (or 5/16th of a pound). The watch is hefty and if my 6.5" wrist wasn't as flat as it is, I don't think I could wear this watch! As I wrote in my Royal Oak Jumbo review, I'm a big fan of simple faces and the 005 is not an exception. The dial is uncluttered with hands indicating hour and minutes, with a sub-dial at the 9 o'clock position with a small hand indicating seconds. The watch utilizes a Asian 6497 Unitas hand wind movement. I've noticed that this watch is loud relatively to my other reps. The 005 features a solid case back featuring Panerai's logo and engraved with other affects referencing Panerai's Italian roots (Firenze 1860! [Florence 1860]). When I ordered this watch, I assumed it would be engraved with an M serial however it actually came with an N serial. The Luminor Marina (along with several other lines of Panerai) are designed with a very unique crown guard. This crown guard is composed of brushed steel unlike the polished steel of the rest of the case front. The lume is one of the best features of this watch. It is bright with a green tint and this pictures does the brightness no justice. Like I said previously, I have a small wrist however I don't feel it looks odd since my wrist is flat (do I have chicken wrists o.0?). The screw bars are easily removable using a small slot-type screw driver which makes the watch easily wearing dressed up or dressed down. My 005 next to my Aviator World Cities. Final Thoughts: I'm beginning to understand why Paneristis are fans of the brand and I don't think this will be my last Panerai rep that I purchase. Before I go back to University in September, I will probably pick up a PAM 029 GMT I hope guys enjoyed my first impression review. Happy Collecting!

Hi All I just want to start off by saying I have tried to commit a bit of time to finding a answer to this on the site in an effort not to waste anyones time. Unforunately, i've found a few links are no longer correct, active and "page isnt found". I have just ordered my first rep a Tag Carrera from Joshua. Although the watch hasnt arrived yet i can see it has some protective film over certain parts of the watch.. ie the bezel and blue protective film on the crown. Do anyone have any tips for the first step they take with there watches to get rid of these? Maybe tools that your prefer use?? I do plan on filling you all in on my experience once the watch arrives Thanks Phil (a noob)

Good news everyone! So I get asked about this issue on a fairly regular basis, and I don't think that bumping my older threads is a good way to alleviate the confusion on this subject. The truth is always somewhere in the middle and this is no exception. This is a long read, for which I apologize, but maybe you'll find something that you didn't think of before. I'm going to combine from several of my posts and private discussions so this may look familiar to some of you. The data is collected over a pretty sizable chunk of time, all first hand with my own tools, and I would estimate from close to a 100 watches or in that ballpark. First some numbers and findings: Crystal diameter on manual wind models (3.5mm center thickness): o OEM Panerai 35.50-35.52mm o Aftermarket/replica 35.49mm to 35.57mm \_ this varies slightly, but more so on the plus side, e.g. I encounter a lot more 35.53mm crystals than 35.49mm ones. Crystal I-ring gasket thickness: o OEM Panerai - 0.56mm o C3 - 0.56mm * o Noob 111J - 0.39-0.42mm o Noob 005/111/112/219M - 0.37-0.40mm o Noob 005/112/111N v3 - 0.49-0.50mm o H-F all models: L, K, M & N - 0.49-0.53mm Crystal I-ring height: o Between 1.00 and 1.25mm will work with any case crystal bed. * C3 gasket is OEM size and thus will only fit a JimmyzFu or OEM case. Secondly, you cannot underestimate the importance of using a good crystal press to do all of your installs. If you're a weekend warrior and can't justify getting a Bergeon or another good quality press, do not get the $15-25 presses from eBay with all-nylon dies. The following two presses are the next best thing on a budget - 1, 2. I recommend getting both as the dies are interchangeable and sometimes when you need a bit more oomph use an alloy die from the pliers press. Also, if you create your account on WatchBitz and then email Alan about getting a RG/RWG discount, he'll set you up so you see lower prices in your cart automatically. If after reading this you feel this exercise is not for you, have someone with a good press install the crystals for you because guess what - there are no readily available gasket replacements anywhere. You mess up a gasket, you might as well toss the case. You may get lucky with some DSN or CousinsUK gaskets, for example Cousins p/n: IG363355C1 sometimes works in Noob 111J and 111M cases but there is never any guarantee either will fit in your specific case. Reason for this is simple, though PAM reps are better today than ever before, we're still having all the same issues we had 8 years ago. The tolerances have gotten higher due to better machining, but we also have ten times more combinations of parts available. Multiple models from the two major factories came off different masters/molds, several crystal manufacturers have been employed along the way, and don't forget custom and boutique makers like C3, LH, JF, Taka, DSN, etc. Moreover, there's an ever-present x factor, which in reality is nothing more than a combination of inconsistencies working against you. They are usually a slightly over-sized crystal, a slightly tighter than spec case rehaut, a slightly thicker gasket or not enough give in the gasket. To illustrate this better, stay with me through this exercise as the below scenario is common. You are installing a H-Factory crystal in your new Noob case; the crystal happens to be 35.54mm instead of 35.50mm, your Noob case crystal bed is 36.25mm instead of the usual 36.30mm, BUT the gasket in your case just so happens to be 0.40mm on the nose. Result - you won't be able to install this one. Your gasket needs to be 0.22 to 0.25mm thick at the most in order to offset the tolerances on other parts. Once you start doing the math it becomes obvious why you have this issue: (35.54-35.50)*2 + (36.30-36.25)*2 = 0.18mm, that's how much thinner the gaskets needs to be for your crystal to fit. There are no gaskets that are that thin or can get squeezed that much. Thirdly, and equally as important as all of the points above, you need to make sure that if you or anyone else took out your crystal gasket for any reason, when you go to put it back in the case - it's getting put back the right way up. In a perfect scenario your case has a proper spec. crystal bed, you have a mint original gasket that came with the case and you have a crystal that's not overly gigantic - 35.50-35.53mm. You go to instal and pinch and crease the gasket because you didn't check the orientation. Pick up a jewelers loupe and take a good look at the inside of the gasket. What happens when the crystal is pressed in for the first time is the "I" gasket becomes squeezed into an "L" gasket. Some nylon gets pushed down and forms a tiny ledge that lives comfortably in the bottom bevel of the crystal. It's not hard to miss this tiny amount of extra nylon when you're replacing the gasket, but it makes all the difference. This ledge always needs to end up on the bottom. To recap, for a successful crystal install the following are essential: 1) Original gasket that came with your case in good condition, no pinches, creases or flats. 2) Good quality crystal press with alloy or brass inlay dies. 3) Correct orientation of the gasket inside crystal bed. 4) Non-gigantic crystal is also a plus, I have a 35.57mm crystal sitting in my box, it's never getting installed. In conclusion, it must be said that if you have all the parts in front of you, and you have a digital caliper precise to 1/100ths of a mm, it will take a minute to figure out if it's a doable job beforehand. Thank you for reading and I hope I didn't bore you too much.

Hi all, I am totally new to this hobby. An old member of this forum showed me the way and I must say I am really impressed of the knowledge you guys have. I think this will be a perfect place to learn and I feel already hooked. Thanks!

Alright, today I received a nice addition to my (small) collection. First of all, this is what started it all. A Noobmariner from Andy. I started looking around for a replica Datejust for my wife, and suddenly I noticed a couple of other interesting watches at Silix's website. There wasn't much else to do but place an order. Today the package arrived... Lets leave this pic out thanks...Ken "Metal bracelet" - Well, that's at least a part of what should be inside. But the package is so small! Stamps are good, let's open it up! A box? Ok, I guess I have to open this one as well... Bubble wrap! Oh the joy! (For my daughter, that is.) The weight seems about right. Look! Three... what ever that may be. But they're wrapped in aluminium foil. Let's get them out of the bubble wrap. Yes, that is aluminium foil. I hope they're not supposed to go into the oven. That's much better! Now, what do we have here? It's a lady's Datejust, SS, fluted bezel, jubilee bracelet and pink dial with roman numerals, a red Colamariner, and a blue sub. Out of their plastic bags, but still covered with cling film. Let's start with the blue sub, shall we? I love how this is actually more purple than blue. No, I haven't set the time and date yet. Magnification is a bit on the small side, but at $29.99 - who cares? Caseback looks nice. The crown is obviously not in the right position, but I don't mind. I'm very happy with this. Now, moving on to the red Colamariner. Coca-Cola is actually my favourite (non-alcoholic) beverage. About ten years ago, when I started working in the IT business, we had free Coke in the office. I could easily down six cans a day. That's two litres. Don't drink that much today, though. Looking good so far. The date wheel seems slightly misaligned. (If anybody knows how to fix this, I wouldn't mind a couple of pointers.) Caseback is quite similar to the blue one. Crown wheel as well. This is also a very nice looking watch. What I noticed about these two subs is that the mid links are solid, unlike the Noobmariner. The date font seems to be a bit better and the hands and dial markers are generally bigger. They all have decent lume, but the pearl on the blue one is definately better than on the red one. I wonder why, since they're strikingly similar. They were both $29.99 from Silix. Now, moving on to the lady's Datejust. It was a bit more expensive, but still quite cheap. It looks good, but it seems to me that the cyclops is too low. It's about a millimeter or so, which is enough to make it difficult to see the date when looking straight at it. Caseback looks alright, as does the bracelet, which, by the way, has hollow mid links, just like the gen. Crown position is alright, as far as I can see. Perhaps a tiny bit low compared to a gen. This is where you can see the misalignment of the cyclops. It's clear in this picture as well. A question: Would you accept this watch as it is? I've emailed Silix, but I'm still waiting for a reply. I hope this can be resolved somehow. I think it's a bit too much of a misalignment. Now, let's play a game of "Spot the Gen!": Here's my entire collection of Rolex and "Rolex" watches. Which one is genuine? Is it this one? No, we've already made it clear that it was just delivered from Silix. What about this one? No, of course not. How about this one? Stop playing around! You know it's not. Could it be this one? Now, that's tricky. It didn't arrive from Silix, but it's quite clear it's a Noobmariner. In fact it says so at the beginning of this post. Is it really that crappy Datejust? Yes, very good! You've spotted the genuine Rolex! It's a 1989 Datejust with jubilee bracelet, blue stick dial and fluted, stainless steel bezel. Thankyou for playing! Oh, and sorry about the picture quality. I used my phone.