grifter Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 I've read how difficult it is to drill lug holes in cases that don't have them on the outside of the lugs. My question is: Who's got the equipment and skills to do this? Any help will be greatly appreciated! The closest thing I've got to a power tool is my dremel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 You can use a hand drill, some cobalt bits & a Sears drill press stand as described here. I am not in a position to provide this service for members, but it is relatively easy to do once you have this setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 I've done a lot in past, but there is always a risk to do it. The steel is very hard and the drill can break off. Also there needs some luck to get the hole 100% in position. I used to begin with a 1mm drill and with even lug till it starts to go in, after that I mount a 1,2mm drill and go thru on correct lug position. You must count in that you need one drill for one hole! If you try the first used drill on second hole it will get wrong...hope this helps. BTW: I have done it on heavy industial drill machines with 2000 rpm, also with cooling fluid - that's very importand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Utheman Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 Member JMB is one of our expert lug hole drillers - shoot him a pm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 (edited) We discussed this not too long ago. Drilling Lug Holes in non Drilled Cases Many good suggestions. I used 'split point bits' after experiencing problems. I haven't tried Freddy's method of using a normal point with only enough of the bit beyond the chuck to drill through, but that makes sense to me. Posted 04 October 2010 - 03:49 PM All very good advice. I had a real problem, and ruined two cases, trying to drill out the GMT 'Retro' case. Unlike my 6542 that the 1mm hole goes all the way through, on the Retro for some reason the factory makes a hole on the outside of each lug that does not go through. On the inside of each lug is the hole for the spring bar, and on my case 3 of the 4 did not line up. When drilling from the outside once it hit the bottom of the inside hole it took the bit and ovaled the hole. I bought two new cases and took them to a machine shop who told me what happened, and that he'd have the same results. So I tried something else, practicing on the two ruined cases. I have a McMaster-Carr supplier near my house. I've bought bits from them before for drilling out other cases and end-links. I bought 3 Cobalt bits 1mm, split point @ $2.16 each. Using a table top drill press, and drill press vise to hole the case, I drilled into the outside 1mm hole with the 1mm split point bit. When it came to the bottom of the inside hole it did not 'take' the bit, and I drilled straight through. The inside of the lug now had two holes, overlapping each other, but one all the way through. Then I followed up with a 1.3mm regular point cobalt drill bit to open the hole as is done on the other cases. Then I used 'liquid steel' and filled the ugly inside holes, let it set, used a pin vise with the 1.3mm bit to have just one decent looking hole on the inside of each lug, with the obvious finish sanding. One bit did all 4 holes. So I got brave and tried it on a virgin, no hole case. I made a point mark with a spring-loaded punch in the spot I wanted. Then using a new split point bit, I figured the 1st one had to be dulled by now, I drilled the 1mm hole straight through, and then opened them all up to 1.3mm. Came out great. Now the problem is fitting the end links to the holes. Good news is that you can see from the outside just how far off, if at all, you are. Mine were off very slight, but enough not to seat the spring bar. I took the end links to the drill press, using a small drum style sanding bit that matched the curve (diameter?) of the end link. I took the metal down from the top only, the part you see when it's on your wrist. The lower part keeps the link from flipping up. I did a little at a time, it didn't take much, and the fit is very good. I hope that helps. Edited January 15, 2011 by JoeyB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 I haven't tried Freddy's method of using a normal point with only enough of the bit beyond the chuck to drill through, but that makes sense to me. Extend the bit only slightly beyond the end of the chuck to allow for the total depth you will be drilling. This will reduce the likelihood of the bit bending/breaking or sliding across the surface & scratching it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizzy Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 I use one of those spring loaded center punches to make a dent for the drill bit to start in. Figure out where you want the hole and mark it with a fine tip sharpie felt pen. Then place the punch exactly where you want it and push. When the spring loaded mechanism hits it, you will get a nice deep starting point for your drill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 It is best to start with a center drill... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Some of the pics are not available anymore, but maybe it can help. The first post is HERE and second HERE. Good luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 i wouldnt use a hand drill, the risk of wobble and breaking off the bit in the hole is greatly increased. your first attempt expect to either botch it or not do as well as you think you did, which you will only realize the second or third time you do it. alignment is key to doing it correctly, i personally use a 1.25mm bit, 3 in 1 oil and never anything faster than 3200 rpm. after you have to reset it for chamfering , and of course i always sand and repolish the lugs or it looks rough. repolishing is a whole other process of steps to do it correctly. if someone is offering to do it for $20 and they know how to do it correctly and with experience and you care about the piece id outsource it to them, especially if its your first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Using oil is very important. It cools the bit and lubes the cut. If you start to see smoke stop and use more oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 I quit doing lug hole drilling as it's one of my least favorite mods to do. Instead, I just send mine out when I need it done... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preacher62 Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 I've had trouble finding someone who will do it. Most precision machine shops have equipment set up for much larger runs and don't want to break it down to do a $20 - $30 job. I have offered $50 to do it and had no takers...because of the above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 I've had trouble finding someone who will do it. Most precision machine shops have equipment set up for much larger runs and don't want to break it down to do a $20 - $30 job. I have offered $50 to do it and had no takers...because of the above. which model and which factory case are you trying to drill? existing holes to be enlarged or virgin? does the watch need to be disassembled and then reassembled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizzy Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 enlarging existing holes is easy. You can do it with a hand drill and a pair of work gloves to hold the watch case if you dont have proper tools. Trying to drill virgin lug holes is a different story. You need a drill press and some practice. I would love to out source this work to someone, but nobody seems willing to do it. I recently bought a drill press so I am going to give it a shot as soon as I get some new drill bits. dizz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 enlarging existing holes is easy. You can do it with a hand drill and a pair of work gloves to hold the watch case if you dont have proper tools. Trying to drill virgin lug holes is a different story. You need a drill press and some practice. I would love to out source this work to someone, but nobody seems willing to do it. I recently bought a drill press so I am going to give it a shot as soon as I get some new drill bits. dizz ive tried drilling lug holes in a noob factory case, ruined 3 cases with still no success. had all the right equipment too. the problem is the drill bit is so thin at 1.25mm that it bends and walks out of alignment once it touches the case. ive tried drilling it straight then adjusting to the correct angle, ive tried using a pin vise to start a pilot hole, ive tried reversing the bit to eliminate the bit from walking. theres a good reason no one will do it. but you must try for yourself, who knows maybe youll discover a technique that works. one strategy i didnt try was drilling from the inside out at an angle of course, then correcting it. jmb may have had some success with this, but then again he also has a professional machine shop and the years of experience that goes with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 The hole needs to be "spotted" with a center drill. A center drill is extremely stiff, has no flutes, and won't bend. After that you switch to the cobalt bit... I just put a "dimple" in the lug with the smallest drill then switch to the #55... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preacher62 Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 which model and which factory case are you trying to drill? existing holes to be enlarged or virgin? does the watch need to be disassembled and then reassembled? I would like to drill an MBW case, a Noob case and a 16233 DJ case. A machinist recommended a "round-nosed carbide bit". Said that are very stiff and will not flex. He said just go very slowly (on a drill press, of course) and let the bit do the work. Just let the bit just kiss the steel at first let it start to break the surface and then just lower it a little more...etc. etc. I can break the case down and get him just the piece of steel. I can even mark the place I want the hole. I service my own movements but I am not a machinist. Justin dazzles me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 The hole needs to be "spotted" with a center drill. A center drill is extremely stiff, has no flutes, and won't bend. After that you switch to the cobalt bit... I just put a "dimple" in the lug with the smallest drill then switch to the #55... I'm no machinist, and am not familiar with the 'center drill', but that too makes good sense to me. The split point bit didn't 'walk' for me, and Freddy's method of shortening up the bit makes sense as well. I think, as is my experience in most things, practice with whatever method will make for a successful job. I knew those $25 knock-offs would have a good use someday... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiman12 Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Here is a silly question jmb...can you use a center drill on a drill press or are they specifically designed for the lathe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 You can use them in a drill press, lathe, mill, hand drill, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cls Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 You can use them in a drill press, lathe, mill, hand drill, etc. I'm buying a center drill then. Nice tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panerai153 Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 How do you go about centering the hole from the outside. I mean if you are off a tiny bit, your holes won't "meet in the middle" ? I could envision some type of drill guide that uses the inner hole to line up the outside and holds the drill bit in one place so that drilling the hole is easier and more accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) a jig and a laser guided drill press probably Edited January 18, 2011 by highoeyazmuhudee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grifter Posted January 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 How do you go about centering the hole from the outside. I mean if you are off a tiny bit, your holes won't "meet in the middle" ? I could envision some type of drill guide that uses the inner hole to line up the outside and holds the drill bit in one place so that drilling the hole is easier and more accurate. I can envision something like this too! Kind of a "C" type clamp.. but instead of clamping, you put the bottom of the C into the original hole and the top part of the C lines up the drill.. But then again I don't know much about this subject. WOW thanks everyone for the great learning experience! Keep up the suggestions, ideas, and coms! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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