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old school MBW DRSD


tabularasa415

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I knew what I was buying. I wanted to secure the "good bones" to build, what to me, will be the ultimate vintage DRSD. It didn't make since to me to buy some POS to try to build up. That being said, I'll put the money into it so that when I'm done it'll look the part.

Who do you recommend for me to have these mods done? I'm willing to put the $ into the project to make it right. I knew it was going to require some love. I'm glad I'm getting the blank canvas, b/c I don't want to go over-board with the "vintage"-ization that some do. I want mine to look well cared for, like this:

http://forums.watchnet.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=159167&rid=0

Any recommendations would be appreciated. I was told pbdad by one person. Any others CONUS that you'd recommend or think would be more qualified for what I'm going for. Also, what's wrong with the bracelet? I thought that 93150 bracelets were perfectly acceptable for these watches?

Thanks,

Jeremy

glad youre aware whats involved, its a labour and investment of love truly, if you ever sold it you would not recoup your investment. im personally in almost 1K on a franken late 80s 5513, but i love the transitional no date subs so im ok with that ;)

the bracelets are all wrong. the mbk 93150s are actually 93250s with a 93150 engraving, there are many details that are found on the modern subs that shouldnt be there on the vintage bracelets. many can not be corrected with modding.

i have no personal experience with pbdad, so i can not say. there are a few people around here, if they wish to make themselves known im sure they will do so, but case work is seen as a chore especially if it isnt your piece. you might enjoy modding your own watch and find satisfaction in that. it also becomes addictive and a money pit in itself buying the correct tools and crafting your piece.

as i see it really only the cases are usable on the MBKs, thats still more value than other vintage reps have.

if youre serious about having the best DRSD, id suggest:

NDT dial relumed by zig or vac

702 crown and tube from marsupilami as the gen would very hard to source as i maybe see 1-2 gens for sale a year.

gen insert, pearl, no pearl whatever

drill out the lug holes get 2mm aftermarket bars from WO

the cgs need a bit of work, not too bad on the SD cases

remove the caseback paint (very easy to do with some acetone and a pin)

gen crystal

gen clasp

endlinks im not familiar how much the mbk 1665 vary from the gen, but the 5513 ones were no good.

slow beat ETA, serviced and regulated by The Zigmeister

mbk hands are decent, match the lume

leave the he valve alone unless you got money left over at the end and youre feeling daring.

this is the plan i would follow based on the MBK case, some people might say otherwise

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I knew what I was buying. I wanted to secure the "good bones" to build....

Also, what's wrong with the bracelet? I thought that 93150 bracelets were perfectly acceptable for these watches?

Thanks,

Jeremy

I agree, the MBW are the starting point of an awesome franken vintage.

The usual mods would include:

Gen crown and tube and modding crown guards

Gen insert or faded insert with gen tritium pearl

Dial lumed with vintage tritium look and aged

HEV mod optional

Caseback modded and polished out a bit to look used.

Drill out the lug holes

some vintage work to the case and bracelet. You dont want it to look NOS because then it looks fake.

I believe the bracelet on these old ones are solid link instead of hollow. Not a big deal but incorrect none the less.

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Alright, I found a genuine 703 crown for $40. Not bad, right? :thumbsupsmileyanim: I think I'm going to buy Clark's 7030 tube. That is the matching part, correct, everyone? I also have the spring bars. I think my insert is actually pretty good, I'll just have it vintage-ized. I'm working in picking up a slow beat ETA, and then I think it's off to Southern Cali for some expert modding! (read: fade insert, vintage lume on dial and hands, CGs modded, case mod, bracelet mod, HE valve mod, caseback mod, etc) I'd pick up a gen 1570 movement, but that price tag hurts my feelings!

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Oh, yeah, I totally forgot one question... I want to pick up a 2846 slow beater, but can anyone tell me where/how to get a date wheel that is correct Rolex font? Or do I need to find a date wheel overlay? All help appreciated!

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Oh, yeah, I totally forgot one question... I want to pick up a 2846 slow beater, but can anyone tell me where/how to get a date wheel that is correct Rolex font? Or do I need to find a date wheel overlay? All help appreciated!

I would also be interested in a date wheel with the correct font... mine looks too skinny. Bill, do you know if this is the case? I know it's difficult without pictures (I have one jmb took that I can post this evening)...

A gen date wheel is for sale in parts forum but it's a little rich for my blood (at this point, at least)

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Stock i would say also

Shaving crown gards inside and out

fade the just a little and ad an ofrie pearl

Drilling 2mm lugholes, bracelet and endlinks to fit gen 2mm springbars

Vintage lume the dial and hands, just yellow them a little more ivory

Putt in a gen crown and tube

Remove the paint from casback and polish it a bit

HE valve mods

Clarks t39 crystal if you cant get the gen t39

Slow beat non hacking movement and a silver date wheel overlay

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I would also be interested in a date wheel with the correct font... mine looks too skinny. Bill, do you know if this is the case? I know it's difficult without pictures (I have one jmb took that I can post this evening)...

A gen date wheel is for sale in parts forum but it's a little rich for my blood (at this point, at least)

A gen date-wheel will only fit a gen movement, the calendar well turns in the opposite direction,

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You are killing me with those pictures, did the WSD came with a super dome and fat font insert at all?

Not sure what a WSD is, but my (unmodded) MBW arrived looking like this

23.jpg

Today, after replacing everything except the mid-case, my (gen-powered with working Hev) DRSD looks as above or like this

levis1665hanes0062__-2_tonemapped_vivi1.jpg

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problem with a correct gen insert is the numbers advance in reverse compared to the ETA. but thats not to say a gen datewheel wont fit with some modding... just find one with the numbers that are in the correct orientation, theyre out there, but not for the subs, open 6s too.

as for the 703 which coronet did you get? if you found a vintage fat coronet for that price thats outstanding, if in good condition. if its the modern the coronet its incorrect to the period and i wouldnt use it.

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and that's the wrong period crown for a vintage.

not to brag or anything. But if you're a WIS, you can snipe things like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&rt=nc&nma=true&item=180642601297&si=ycNPdAoTbc%252FguG8SNZJGImeb2Bo%253D&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

I won a genuine 702 crown and tube for 20 bucks =D

Edited by praetor
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and that's the wrong period crown for a vintage.

not to brag or anything. But if you're a WIS, you can snipe things like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&rt=nc&nma=true&item=180642601297&si=ycNPdAoTbc%252FguG8SNZJGImeb2Bo%253D&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

I won a genuine 702 crown and tube for 20 bucks =D

Any suggestion for a 1680 datewheel? And white or silver date wheel?

By the way... sick deal on the crown and tube!

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there's usually enough WIS that mislabelled ebay items are caught very easily. But not this time =D. The pics were blurry except the ones that show it's a 702 and it's a gen since it's crimped.

Edited by praetor
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If you are interested, you can go to the link below for more info on a DRSD build.I just finished one, that is very similar to Freddy's. I included a spreadsheet with all my costs, so you can see approximately what the costs are to build a really nice DRSD. I believe that with this watch, a genuine 1570 date movememnt is really the way to go. You can use a genuine datewheel, a much better afternarket dial, and no problems with the datewheel not lining up, or the wrong fonts, etc.

DRSD Project

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and that's the wrong period crown for a vintage.

not to brag or anything. But if you're a WIS, you can snipe things like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/...RK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

I won a genuine 702 crown and tube for 20 bucks =D

Praetor, thanks for the link. I just checked the seller and picked up what I think is a 24-700 crown for only 40 bucks. :thumbsupsmileyanim:

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Alright, everyone. I have spent time, money and a LOT of research on getting this project prepped for modification. Here's what we're gonna do:

--Remove caseback paint/polish out to make look older.

--Install gen 703 crown and Clark's tube

--Install a Clark superdome (after debating a gen, I'm not paying for an old, brittle piece of authentic plastic <_< )

--Install a Clark insert (I'm not ready to invest in a gen)

--Install a serviced, regulated and adjusted 2846 slowbeater

--Install silver datewheel with correct font

--Drill out/install 2mm spring bars

--"vintage-ize" bracelet (my seller sent it with a hollow link bracelet and pretty decent clasp so we'll use it for now) so it doesn't look new and I want the sharp edges of the links taken down a little to seem warn, even if it's pretty much new

--shave the CGs, of course

--Dial/hand vintage lume, lume insert pearl too

--Fade new Clark insert a little

My only question here is what does the HE valve mod entail? I've been reading and reading and I'm still not certain about one thing -- are these MBW watches water tight? I mean, does the inside of the HE valve need epoxying or whatever? Or is the "HE valve" really just a light etching in this case and totally non-functional? If I bought an HE valve how much and from where (cheapest route)?

Did I miss anything? :bangin:

Oh, and if I fall in love with this watch (as I'm sure I will), I WILL source a 1570 movement, matching silver datewheel, yuki dial/hand combo and 93150 bracelet. Right now, though, I'll just keep that extra $2700-3300 in my pocket. I think for my first vintage project I'm going a pretty good distance here :victory:

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