Martyd3 Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 Date wheels on 1680 and 1665 subs have been the bane of my existence. I've sold three of them because the date wheel alignment sucked. Some were good for half the dates, others were too far to to left or too far to the right. It's an OCD nightmare for me. My lastest 1665, from PT, was no better. It had a nice date wheel, but the date was crowded in the date window (which is too small). Some numbers were even slightly covered by the dial. Rather than selling the watch, this time I decided to fix the problem. My first step was to pick up an MBW dial, which has a larger, more correct date window. That was a big improvement, but it didn't work well with the PT date wheel. No matter what I did, the alignment wasn't great and I had a problem with the date wheel sticking. I tried a number of solutions, including making my own overlay, but nothing worked. In the end, I sourced an MBW overlay, which when properly installed, is as close to perfect as I think you can get. I apologize for the lack of pictures, but I didn't think about posting this when I did the work. Here's what I learned: 1. Plan on doing this 3 - 4 times to get it right (if you are not comfortable removing and resetting hands or screw up keyless works or a regular basis ... pass on this one). 2. Use a good, slow drying adhesive. One that will give you more than a couple of minutes to get things aligned. I use GS Hypo cement, but any good plastic model glue will work too. 3. Use a magnifier. You will need one. Without it, you won't be able to fine tune the alignment. 4. Once you think you've got it right, put the dial/movement in the watch and recheck it under the crystal. Things look different when the watch is reassembled (trust me on this one). How to align the date wheel: 1. Put small pin head sized drops of glue on the date wheel (not the overlay). 2. Using the stem as horizontal line, gently put the overlay onto the date wheel lining up one of the numbers. 3. Install the dial and check the alignment (look to see if it is up, down, left or to the right). It will be off in more than one direction. 4. Remove the dial, make some fine adjustments (you will be able to slide the overlay) and check again. 5. When you think the number is aligned, do the following. A. Check the number opposite the number you have aligned (if you aligned the 8, check the the 23). You will need to go back and forth a couple of times to get it right. B. Once you have those numbers aligned, you will need to align the two numbers on a vertical axis opposite the two numbers that you checked (if you aligned the 8 and the 23, check the 16 and the 31). C. Follow the same procedure as for the 8 and 23. Once the 16 and 31 are aligned, check the alignment of the 8 and 23 again. You will need to make small adjustments, but you will eventually get the four numbers aligned this way. Some helpful tips: I do my alignment using the top and left sides of the date window as a guide. I get the best results this way. You really need to use the left side of the window for the numbers in the teens and when I use the bottom on the window as a guide, the number always ends up sitting low in the window. It may be an optical illusion thing. It's a pain, but align four numbers opposite each other. It takes longer, but the results will be better. Until someone perfects an overlay, the alignment won't be 100% perfect. In my opinion, having a few numbers slightly to the left is best way to go. I have seen many gens that are this way. Be patient and take your time. If you have 20 minutes before dinner, don't start this project! Here's one pic, because this post is worthless without a pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbutlerman Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 Nice work! I to can attest to the OCD factor and the difficulty of getting these aligned. I am sure I lost years off my life getting it aligned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 I would just as soon somebody whup me with a chunk of rebar than put overlays on, but that's one of the hazards of Rolex Repdom. Another reason I love building Tudors!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbutlerman Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 I would just as soon somebody whup me with a chunk of rebar than put overlays on, but that's one of the hazards of Rolex Repdom. Another reason I love building Tudors!! ...and I Omegas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimster Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 What a coincidence. I was just about ready to throw a 1665 wheel across the room because I'm on my 4th alignment. I agree with all posted. to non date watches!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 Also, didn't notice if it was mentioned but use a fairly slow drying glue... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preacher62 Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 Just a note...it really needs to be an adhesive such that the dwo can be removed from the datewheel. On some movements you will have to remove the overlay in order to service the movement. I have found a way on ETA movements to remove and replace the ring with the dwo affixed, but on DGs and Miyotas you usualy have to remove it. Try not to make it permanent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyd3 Posted July 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 GS Hypo cement or Testors model glue holds tight, but is easy to remove. All you have to do is slide a razor blade between the date wheel and the overlay to loosen it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 datewheels are the reason i chase 5513s and snowflakes the mbk overlay is decent enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 Nice tutorial. I have felt this pain way too often. My OCD is similar, and on said watches, I only will wear them on days the DW is in alignment. LOL. I tend to use 28 as a key number since it tends to fill the majority of the window. Actually, I use 28, 19, 11, and 3 (for flat tops) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slickdick Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 4. Once you think you've got it right, put the dial/movement in the watch and recheck it under the crystal. Things look different when the watch is reassembled (trust me on this one). Yes, trust him on that one. Especially for the 1680. Minor crook wil look 2.5 times as bad trough the cyclops. Great tutorial mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyd3 Posted July 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 I added a better pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiyal Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Bump, this is a challenge!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callejeros Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 please repleace the broken link! I´m about to start a 1500 date project! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civic4982 Posted August 29, 2013 Report Share Posted August 29, 2013 Subbed to reread this once my new DWO comes in for my 1665 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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