mymanmatt Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 (edited) When setting your date on a an asian 2836-2 I suggest you do it this way. I have noticed a problem with the date corrector on the asian movement, since I have replaced several over the last couple of months. Ive noticed Asian movements have a very weak date corrector gear, that is why so many have problems with the date breaking and not changing. One simple practice should help keep your date wheel from breaking. Photo 1 shows the correct position for the date corrector when you are setting your date. Photo 2 shows the date corrector position right after the date has flipped over. If you try to roll the date forward in that position, the calandar wheel puts undue pressure on an already weak part of the date change assy. Simply roll your time forward closer to noon before you change the date, that will help to keep your date changing for a long time to come. Not a bad pratice for the swiss either. Just sharing some info with forum. You will notice less resitance when the time is close to noon, you can fell the tension when you try to set it close to midnight. Edited March 7, 2013 by mymanmatt 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgtguk Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 Good to know mate, thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilseam Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 Good info, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 "Simply roll your time forward closer to noon before you change the date, that will help to keep your date changing for a long time to come." Good advice. Swiss made Eta 2824/36 etc are made so if you try to set the date while it is getting ready to change...it will just flip over with no damage. It is still a good idea to change the date between 3am and 6pm though. Seagull ST6 used in many replicas has a plastic date flipper that will sometimes break if you try to set the date when it is getting ready to change. DG/NN will sometimes just go 'crunch' when the little quick set date flipper breaks...then it's time to make it go 'crunch' again by smacking it with a hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mymanmatt Posted March 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 (edited) If you wear a watch in rotation, you don't know if it's close to midnight or noon when you pick it up. If you set the time first, you will know if its midnight or noon. Let's say you haven't worn it for a week. You pick it up and it died at 5 mins before 12. If you set the time ,and it changes immediately that was midnight. If it doesn't it was noon. Don't change it anywhere close to midnight. That one small practice, can save you from doing a repair Edited March 7, 2013 by mymanmatt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve G Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 Good to know! I will now file that in memory along with changing the date on 7750's at 6:30-7:00 am. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielv2000 Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 This is what I usually do - hopefully I am not messing anything up. In the morning, I select my watch. I set the date to one day before the current date (ie: today is the 7th, so I moved the date to 6). After that, I use the hands to move the date forward. Is this ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mymanmatt Posted March 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 You should set the time first. Roll forward until the date changes, then you know your time is AM, set the time, then roll the date forward to that day, done 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackpack Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 Great info, I'm well aware of this because I damaged a 2836 movement by not being aware of this, just so everyone knows this only applies to the 2836 and not the 2824 which has a much different date change mechanism. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjjoyce1 Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Ugh. I've had those come apart on me too, and you can't press them back together either. Good advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 It also applies to the ETA 2892-2 and ETA 2893-2. I think those are even more apt to break that the ETA 2836/2846. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneed12 Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 If anyone needs a spare date flipper wheel for a 2836, I think I have a couple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irolexu Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Great advise matt! Also go swiss ETA if its within your budget! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneed12 Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Great advise matt! Also go swiss ETA if its within your budget! Less great advice--Swiss ETA from a dealer is rarely worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irolexu Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Less great advice--Swiss ETA from a dealer is rarely worth it. I never said anything about getting a SWISS ETA from a dealer. I am simply suggesting that anyone who has the option of going with swiss vs. asian should just go ahead with swiss. I would say its very poor advice to tell someone that can afford the alternate to go asian as we all know the swiss ETA is a much better movement. if they can not afford the difference then asian is a good alternate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 I would say its very poor advice to tell someone that can afford the alternate to go asian as we all know the swiss ETA is a much better movement. I would ask for clarification. What does "much better" encompass? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneed12 Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 I never said anything about getting a SWISS ETA from a dealer. I am simply suggesting that anyone who has the option of going with swiss vs. asian should just go ahead with swiss. The only time you have an "option" of going "swiss vs. asian" is when ordering a watch from a dealer. The factory may sell you a fairly new Sellita or (rare nowadays) ETA movement. They may sell you a very old Swiss movement out of an Enicar from the 70s that probably hasn't been serviced in two decades. They may sell you a clone anyway and tell you it's Swiss. I would say its very poor advice to tell someone that can afford the alternate to go asian as we all know the swiss ETA is a much better movement. Not at all better. A good clone is pretty much identical to a Swiss movement. The trick is getting a good one. What you pay for (and get, with a factory-sealed Swiss movement) is much, much better QC, proper lubrication, and that's about it. Virtually any part from a clone ETA will swap to a Swiss ETA with minimal problems. if they can not afford the difference then asian is a good alternate If you really want Swiss, buy the Asian clone and swap in a factory-fresh Swiss movement yourself. That's the only way to know what you're getting. Otherwise, ordering Swiss from a dealer is often just a waste of money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zak5 Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 After reading all week til my eyes bled....... I am now VERY confused So..... for a noob like me..... will I be wasting money buying a Swiss ETA on a Rolex rep Sub? I was gonna buy Swiss not Asian???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mymanmatt Posted March 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 When you buy swiss in your new watch, you may, or may not, get gen swiss. It may be 10 years old. Best thing, buy asian, then buy a new fresh swiss and have you asian replaced. Then sell your asian to someone who needs it, because theirs broke. That way you know what you have in your watch, for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon05 Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Great little snippet of advice, thanks Matt. Can't justify to the Minister for War & Finances, (AKA The missus) the cost difference between Swiss v Asian, so Asian it must be. So if I can look after it the best I can, it's all good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indywatchguy Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Always go Swiss Simon it gives the watch a little extra something. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mymanmatt Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 All of that is correct at this time. How did we get to which movement to buy. The thread was how to keep you calandar wheel working for a long time. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calebt Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneed12 Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 The one Movt you truly know its swiss is the selita (SW) movts. I've seen clones stamped with Sellita markings on the nameplate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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