cc33 Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 The hands look fantastic, next time maybe a little less aging of the dial and insert. Glad to see you experimenting, that's what it's all about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sor@mail.technion.ac.il Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 The hands look fantastic, next time maybe a little less aging of the dial and insert. Glad to see you experimenting, that's what it's all about the dial has seen better days.. but If I got you OK on the hands so this trial could be considered a success I have two more dials on the way, I'll give them a gentler treatment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerkstore Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 coat the dial and spray it over with a varnish. MD, could you suggest a varnish spray brand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Where did you get those gold 'big buddle seconds hand' hands? That looks sweet after sanding E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardor Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 jerkstore could you post some pics of the engravings on the raffles case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sor@mail.technion.ac.il Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 MD, could you suggest a varnish spray brand? +1 Where did you get those gold 'big buddle seconds hand' hands? That looks sweet after sanding E it came with the tiger concept case on ebay. But I am pretty sure he can sell them separately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerkstore Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Tiger sells those hands for like $30, for both ETA and dg2813 sizes. jerkstore could you post some pics of the engravings on the raffles case? They come engraved with both 6538 and 5508 (so the rep makers cover their bases, i guess). Silix cases usually say 6541 or something. Case back says 5508, but the pic isn't very clear. I don't have one anymore or I would open it up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardor Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Thaks jerkstore thats exactly what i wanted to see, if they were punched or laser etched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sor@mail.technion.ac.il Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 update,I took another dial to the oven. no coffee this time.and shaved the dial by connecting it to the dremel instead of the cutting discs and shaving it on a stone. easy peasy.attached are some crappy pics from the phone. (in bad lighting) I have two questions of my own:1. can you recommend an inexpensive way of removing a crown tube? (I have a set of wrist watch broaches but they are too small)2. any Idea about how to remove the lower text? (I tried medical 70% ethanol with no success, and don't really like the Idea of acetone) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sor@mail.technion.ac.il Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 update,I took another dial to the oven. no coffee this time.and shaved the dial by connecting it to the dremel instead of the cutting discs and shaving it on a stone. easy peasy. I have two questions of my own:1. can you recommend an inexpensive way of removing a crown tube? (I have a set of wrist watch broaches but they are too small)2. any Idea about how to remove the lower text? (I tried medical 70% ethanol with no success, and don't really like the Idea of acetone) I usually use a small, triangular hobby file to remove older tubes. Simply wedge the file inside the tube & unscrew (or grasp the end of the file with plyers to unscrew, if the tube was cemented in). Which lower text? Submariner or Swiss? If the text resides below a clear gloss layer of paint, your only option is to remove the top layer of paint, which is likely to kill the dial. If the text is a top layer, try an eraser (the rubber bit at the end of a pencil). & why are you highlighting your text in gray? The highlighting makes it difficult to read. I do not mean to crimp your style, but plain (black) text is the easiest way to get your points across. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sor@mail.technion.ac.il Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 Thanks! I didnt mean to highlight. I copy past from my original post on another forum Sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cc33 Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 Much better, it's coming along quite nicely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sor@mail.technion.ac.il Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 thanks, done. have a little smudge but I can live with that for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted July 27, 2013 Report Share Posted July 27, 2013 these builds look nice im NO expert on big crowns, how accurate are the helenarou 6538s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinniegeorge138 Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 FINALLY found this watch, after much trial and error. Ordered it from many dealers, both trusted and non trusted and they all would tell me they had it in stock but then right before shipping it out tell me they didn't, and in 2 cases (non trusted dealers) sent me the wrong watch. Finally saw that Perfect Clones had it, (which I don't think they did when this post was created) and ordered it. Josh was super nice and fast and answered all my questions. Sent it out fast but it spent almost 2 weeks in US customs. It is as accurate to the original as I need it to be, considering I was very close to just buying a Tiger homage. Think I'm going to wear it as is for a year or 2 before aging it. Also, they say the bezel is unidirectional but it's not, moves both ways like the original. I am a bigger Bond fan than a watch fan but I've learned a ton about watches and reps from the help of this site. Now that I have this and the Skyfall Seamaster, I aim on having a watch worn by each Bond actor. http://www.p-cls.com/rlsv10029-vintage-james-bond-6205-ssnato-a2836-p-9099.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cousin_hub Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Mine with Silix case, Myota movement with no hack, Rafflestime crown, and Big Daz dial Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendota Explorer Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 ^ Nice! Very good looking build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seanpnichols Posted February 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Thanks everyone for the wealth of information here. It’s great to see so much helpful information and so many choices depending on skill level and attention to detail. After much consideration I have decided to embark on creating the James Bond “Thunderball” Rolex 6538, with the dark brown alligator strap as opposed to the three color NATO strap that everyone uses. I would really appreciate your opinion, advice and guidance regarding my choice of parts. First of all, I am not looking to create something to win a contest or fool an expert, but rather something that looks nice, appropriately aged and similar to what my namesake wore in “Thunderball.” I would really like to keep my costs down and would not mind skipping a few details like making bevels on the case. The parts I have chosen include: Complete Watch (JB 5508) from Tiger Concept for $109.00 http://www.tiger-concept.com/watch.html Yellow Lume 27mm Dial w/Hands from Yuki for $112.00 http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/8677972/9638403.htm 8 mm Brevet Crown from Rafflestime for $30.00 http://rafflestime.com/signed-vintage-brevet-bond-milsub-crown-eta-dg-movement-8mm/ Crocodile Watch Band, from Esslinger for $12.00 http://www.esslinger.com/20mm-brown-leather-watch-band-1-3-1.aspx Rolex Buckle from Esslinger for $24.99 http://rafflestime.com/signed-buckle-20mm-nato-style-watch-band-strap/ I plan to lightly age the case with coins screws and nails, and use a Dremmel to create beveled edges. I also plan to age the dial with a light coat of Krylon Clearcoat before the oven, and hands with light brushes from sandpaper. Since I am not sure how to get that sweet aged “Tropical” brown look on the dial, I may try to find another one or perhaps have someone to modify it for me, hopefully here in the US and without having to spend a fortune. How does my plan look so far? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DVNE Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 You need the 28mm yuki dial. The 27 will fall through the dial opening. Don't ask how i know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seanpnichols Posted February 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Thanks! I actually wondered about that. I did not see a 28mm on Yuki's site, but I just sent an email asking for one. If Yuki does not have one, can anyone point me in the right direction? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djulink Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Thunderball (1965) comes after Goldfinger (1964); in both, 007 use the RAF (not NATO) strap for his Big Crown. You'd better refer to Dr NO (1962) or From Russia with love (1963), if you're getting a dark brown leather strap. Speaking about components, follow DVNE advice about the dial. Having said that, you can get a "wider" dial and sand it (for instance Raffle's ones: from 29 to 28mm). To give you a hint, here's my 5508 with a Raffle's Dial and a brown leather strap I bought from a local shop (but there are still work to be done...). Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seanpnichols Posted February 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Thanks djulink for the movie clarification. It was pretty late here when I posted that. And I will certainly consider the bigger dial from Raffles, as well as their hands, unless I find something better suited to my needs. Your 5508 looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dlf Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Thanks djulink for the movie clarification. It was pretty late here when I posted that. And I will certainly consider the bigger dial from Raffles, as well as their hands, unless I find something better suited to my needs. Your 5508 looks great! http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/7518423/10094519.htm Also I wouldn't get the raffles crown it's not so good . Get one from Adrian / Athaya $35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Nice looking watch djulink, but it's more like a 5510 with the big crown and 200m rating. 5508 had a 100m rating and the small 6mm crown. Both had the 1530 movement and came out around 1958-9 and production ran into the early 60s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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