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Cartel Submariner with Stubby Crown Guards revisited


Rolexaddict

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This thread is following the previous about the gen 5513 gilt dial meters first

 

I got an idea... And this could be a new kind of package offer  

 

Concerning Sub models with short CGs : stubby or not stubby ?  That is the question

 

I think no so stubby, the case need just a serious reshaping.

My opinion (my imagination ?) : probably there are 2 makers. The first cuts and sells generic cases with the CG side which is wider. The second maker buy a batch of these cases and has several templates/CNC programs to re-cut profilesand thickness depending models. Also engrave between lug holes, according what Rolex model he wants to replicate.

 

The case of this watch sold by Josh has an excellent potential to work on. Thickness is correct and the rehaut wall accept gens or gen specs aftermarket plexis. Btw, a gen bezel assembly will suit with not to minor fittings. The dial is very sharp, lug holes are easy to re-drill at Rolex specs as they are centered perfectly

Also gen casebacks screw on. Opposite : the rep caseback fits a gen case

 

The rep case has been compared with the gen 5513 case I have restored, then I have reshaped to replicate the gen 5512/5513 design and suceeded to supress this visual effect of short CGs.

 

These watch came with an oversized 7mm triplock which is not in brass wrapped with a stainless leaf. Fortunately it is solid strainless and machinable, so I have machined the crown to reduce the size to the correct 7mm twinlock. Then to get it more accurate I have removed the 3 points under the crown's logo and repolished. The tube was also redesigned to a twinlock tube by removing metal from the external o-ring area, then screwed more recessed into the case tube hole

 

To resume the following was done on this watch :

 

- Complete case body reshaping

- Lug holes re-drilled

- Tube and crown machined and converted in a 7mm twinlock

- Dial and hand relumed

- Yuki pearl

- Clark T19 plexi

 

Thats all,

 

Now pics, the first test has been made with a Submariner 5512

 

The stock watch as it comes from the dealer :

 

g1w2.jpg

 

The finished watch,

 

3ft8.jpg

 

CGslook really better after reshaping, sorry for dust on the plexi

 

v8io.jpg

 

Sorry for the finger prints... Look the detail of the crown, the 3 dots under the coronet were removed and the spot was repolished

 

9ffw.jpg

 

Imho, the effect is perfect, if you compare with the pics of the gen 5513, the CGs length look identical

I can see myself in the caseback, lol

 

cjg1.jpg
 

o78y.jpg

 

The area between the CGs has been a little recessed, details of the reduced crown

Dial, pearl and hands relumed

 

2i37.jpg

 

 

l69c.jpg

 

io19.jpg
 

What do you think ? not so bad after mods for a $ 158.00 vintage sub...

Edited by Rolexaddict
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I have a couple of unused mbw cases in my drawer, but I must say accuracy per $ seems very high on these cases when I compare. You have done a good job on this case and the short crown guards blend in very well. The thing that I notice more is the low crown height., but that goes for almost all Rolex reps.

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Super !! Another Fine 5513 ! i use the 1680 cases myself but this looks great, and i like the low cost theme that really adds to the charm!

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I had a gen 5513 (stupid me for selling it) I don't remember the upper case edges being so beveled? Other than that looks great!

 

Its a very fiddly thing to properly bevel the shoulders of the case lugs, then polish/brush them perfectly.  A 50+ year old watch which has been re-brushed many times will not be perfect.

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A very handsome result,your detailing is superb! How do you change the crown profile? The logical use of a lathe I'd guess ? Although you mention your Dremel, it would seem that you'd have to turn the crown while grinding,beveling w/your Dremel?

Thanks for your input,I so enjoy seeing your work! Mcotter

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I take the crown and chuck it up (by the stem) in a cordless drill leaving enough space to get the sanding disk on the dreml in between the crown base and the chuck. You need to put the disk on the dreml with the sand side back toward the tool, for obvious reasons. Then you start the drill turning slowly and insert the sanding disk with the dreml running. Voila...instant metal lathe. 5 minute job. Be careful. You can take off a lot of material really quickly with power tools.

To protect the crown stem you can mount the crown on an old winding stem and then chuck that up in the drill. Then you have plenty of space between the crown and the chuck.

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Thanks Preacher,

Your system seems quite correct, I'll give it a try. Although it would seem like a 2nd pair of hands is in order. I appreciate your input! Regards, mcotter

Yes!  I have done it by myself, but someone to operate the drill definitely simplifies things. 

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