Cromag Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 Hi guys. Can I please get some recommendation for a specific contact cement, epoxy, or glue that I could use to hold down my end link? My IWC XVI stainless steel bracelet end link flops around and needs to be glued down. I was gonna try some crazy glue but figured I'd tap the collective first. I remember a thread where someone endorsed a specific brand/product but I can't find that thread I love the watch and it was custom fitted with a bracelet from an XV if I recall correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nanuq Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 A thin strip of rubber from an inner tube to fill the gap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B3nj4min3 Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 I've used E6000 jewellery glue in the past however I think GS Hypo Cement is supposed to be the best for watches; http://www.gshypocement.com/ Hope this helps mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromag Posted August 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 I've used E6000 jewellery glue in the past however I think GS Hypo Cement is supposed to be the best for watches; http://www.gshypocement.com/ Hope this helps mate. Ah yes! That's it! GS Hypo Cement with that precision applicator. Thanks Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B3nj4min3 Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 Glad to have been of help mate :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSTEEL Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 Before gluing it, why not try some fatter spring bars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromag Posted August 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 Before gluing it, why not try some fatter spring bars? Ummm... Not sure it has any spring bars. The guy who retro fitted the bracelet to 'work' (which is perfectly fine with me) had it glued but the glue wore off I guess. So exactly what part is the 'spring bar?' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSTEEL Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 The spring bar attaches the SEL's to the lugs. Using fatter spring bars may help with the SEL fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromag Posted August 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 The spring bar attaches the SEL's to the lugs. Using fatter spring bars may help with the SEL fitting. I'll take it apart tomorrow to clarify what you say. Would be nice to do it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panerai153 Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 The problem is the end links don't fit. they are too short. Because they are too short, they try to flip over. look at other watches that have tight end links, the links are right up close to the case, on yours there is a huge gap which allows the end link to move up and down, which it shouldn't. Whoever "custom fitted " the bracelet should have realized that the end links didn't fit. I f you can fit fatter springbars, that might help, also as nanug suggested, gluing a thin strip of rubber to the inside edge of the end link would help take up the slack. You can't glue the end links to the case, that won't work Here is a photo of correct end link fit the end link should not move at all, the bracelet flex starts at the first link past the end link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromag Posted August 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 Thanks for getting into the discussion guys. Except for the larger spring I do understand what you are saying. In my pics you can see the bottom link fits nicely. As did the top. It works fine for me. If that spring you refer to is the bar in the picture then i don't think i cam fit a larger one through the space. There is no gap in the other glued side so I don't understand how rubber shim could be the answer. @Dutchguy2 sold me this beauty a while ago and he just PM'd saying I should try a metal epoxy because he didn't use a metal epoxy, just regular epoxy.I'm still leaning towards the GS contact cement. :shrug: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchguy2 Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 The GS cement is not hard enough and will wear off even harder than the 5 min epoxy I used.Try to find the hardest epoxy or other glue you can find to fill up the gap.I never made a secret of the fact that I used epoxy to fit the XV bracelet on the XVI case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromag Posted August 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 @Dutchguy2 there is NO problem with you. You disclosed it and I am totally fine with it. I enjoy the watch and the bracelet is a must for me. Comfort and style Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 If you want it permanent, J.B. Weld, or maybe a strong version of locktite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromag Posted August 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 LOL why do you suppose this guy wants to keep his gen bracelet when selling this gen XVI? Getting a rep? Hehe http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=6586668&rid=0#msg_6586668 I guess I'll need to research these different glues and just try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panerai153 Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 JB weld will work, just need to make sure the surface is free of any grease, oil, dirt, etc. in your photo, the spring bar is that rod shaped part that holds the end link to the bracelet and the bracelet to the watch. From the looks, I doubt that any that would be big enough to take up the slack in the end link would not fit through the holes in the end link and last bracelet link. you are going to have to find something to use to shim up the space between the watch case and the endlink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fraggle42 Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 Clean up the metal surfaces that the epoxy is on and use liquid metal. Should hold them for a good while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chango Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 I have a similr problem with a Ebel 1911 disco chrono. When I fit it in place, it's flush. However when I screw it down, it leaves a big gap. I thought a bought using cement or epoxy but never thought there is one out there string enough to hold it. I don't want my watch to fall off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesfl Posted August 23, 2013 Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 If those are SEL's from a 3717 bracelet, fat springbars will fit without modding the SEL. The groove in the SEL is too narrow to accommodate fat springbars. I have a 3717 that has the same issue with both endlinks flipping up. Mine was because of poorly misdrllled springbar holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberscreamer Posted August 23, 2013 Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 The drilled holes in those end links look much larger than the pins coming off of the spring bar, if I am seeing that correctly in the pictures (honestly a little too dark to be completely sure). If that is the case, this may just be that there is too much slack in the drilled lug compared to the spring bar, giving it room to move and therefore no longer maintain a tight fit at all times. I would check the size of the holes if I were you and compare it to the end pins. If there is as much of a gap around the pins as I think, simply getting fatter spring bars (not the spring bar itself, but the end pins, a la those found on typical Seiko watches), you may solve your issue easily and cheaply. If not, using a metal / ceramic epoxy may be your best bet, unless you want a semi permanent hold and can use a spot weld with some solder. Just my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtiis Posted August 23, 2013 Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 I recommend the chew-glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromag Posted August 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 Ok I think I get it, about the spring bar/pin. I took out a bunch of them from my other watches and some were too thick to fit while others made no difference. So I went down to the hardware store and bought some Liquid Nails epoxy for metal. It looks like the right stuff. I'll try it out and post my results. Thanks for all the feedback guys. Much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromag Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 Ok! I glued it! Here's a couple of pics.It was easy. I just attached the end links to the head and stuck a toothpick full of glue down the gap. Then cleaned off the excess. I didn't do it to the bottom link, just the top. The bottom seems to be fine without. Hopefully it holds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceocorona Posted August 24, 2013 Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 Let us know how that holds. Regardless of the top staying in position the bracelet doesn't fall off right? Otherwise I'd be scared to wear it in public and the glue fails... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cromag Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 Let us know how that holds. Regardless of the top staying in position the bracelet doesn't fall off right? Otherwise I'd be scared to wear it in public and the glue fails... It's secure. The spring bar holds it in place. The glue just keeps the end link from flopping over once in a while I'll update thread thread as I wear it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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