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ETA or not .. how to figure out?


bjarneb

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Hi all,

I purchased a GMT rep some months ago for a trusted dealer here. I ordered the ETA (Swiss 2836 ) version.
However, after using the watch for a while, I find it surprisingly bad for being an ETA movement.

Power reserve is about 16-18 hours, and it slows down with ca 30 seconds for every 24 hours.
I wind it up about 20 turns every time it stops and shake it like a madman afterwards as well.
 

Are there any way to see if it is actuallly an ETA movement in the watch, or if it's an Asian one? Not sure if it can bee seen from this pic?

r03.jpg

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It may have started life as an ETA many years ago but the only thing left that could be called ETA is maybe a few parts. That seems to be one of the ETA movements that has been turned into a POS fake Rolex movements. I certainly would never call that an ETA.

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Thanks for the replies, u guys know much more about movements than I :),

It's not the end of the world, but paying a lot more (there were 3 different movements to choose from) for en ETA movement, I think I should get one as well? Or would that make me a newbie who doesn't understand the rep business?
I don't care if it has Rlx stamps all over, because I don't open the case very often .. As a matter of fact, I never do actually. That's not why I purchase a watch. I mostly look at the upper side of the watch frequently, to see what time it is. And I prefer that it is as close to accurate time as I can expect from a mechanical watch with an ETA movement .. :)

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Appears to be common problem these days. Had similar issue last few orders. Won't make that mistake again. If I ever order from TD again just getting base movement and will source a real eta and get installed.

Sent from my droptop using telepathy.

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You should have searched by the forum for information, before... You would have learned that, unless for the new Sellita calibers, it's better to go for Asian NOT modified clones. The worst idea is actually to go for a modified Swiss :( Also you'd've known that often a caliber service is needed (yes, on brand new watches) because the way they are assembled is far from clean and lubricated.

Good luck. In your place I'd make a rep friendly watch smith to service (un assemble, clean, oil and reassemble) the caliber.

Sent from my RM-914_eu_italy_215 using Tapatalk

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I haven't seen a swiss eta in any watch from anyone in a couple of years. Seen lots that said they were, but not. I don't know what that is. Has it been wet? You need to wind it 50 times to get a full wind. Shaking it doesn't help. The automatic wind is meant to keep it at least at the point where it's wound, not wind it, However it will put a small amount of wind in the main spring.

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You need to wind it 50 times to get a full wind. Shaking it doesn't help. The automatic wind is meant to keep it at least at the point where it's wound, not wind it, However it will put a small amount of wind in the main spring.

Never heard that before. Are you speaking about a specific case? Not been my experience with any watches or movements I have worked on.

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My first Asian etaclone claimed to be swiss and with eta markings was from 'Paul' at Abay about 5 or 7 years ago...maybe longer. Paul said he did not know it was a clone and made it up in a later deal. After that I really slowed down buying replicas but a few friends did not so I have seen a lot of eta signed clones since then...all claimed to be "swiss" of course.

 

I guess it was about 5 years ago when they really hit the market in full force with a few actual 'swiss etas' thrown it now and then. Now, going from what I have seen and read there are very few actual swiss made etas showing up.

So I agree with mymanmatt when he says not to expect a swiss eta no matter what the seller says and if you do happen to get a swiss eta, do not expect it to be new or in top notch condition.

 

I do not know what qualifies as a 'keeper' but if I spotted one from a 'trusted whatever', I would go with the Asian eta clone and be prepared to buy a genuine swiss eta and have it c/o and install it in the watch later.

 

Buying a watch with an Asian '21 jewel' movement to save $$ is Ok unless you plan to install an eta movement later because the dial and hands will not fit on an eta. If you do swap the '21' out for an eta you will need a set of hands and will have to figure out a way to mount the dial without dial feet.

 

Basic '21 jewel' types used in many replicas...

Miyota clones

Seagull ST6 and ST16

 

The Seagull ST16 is a combination of Miyota clone and Seiko with a Miyota type movement and Seiko 'magic lever' type winding system. The ST6 is a model made from scratch in the 'traditional' design with the autowind assembly screwed on top of a basic hand wind movement. The ST6 is smaller than average but has an oversize top (dial side) plate to allow it to be used in regular watches.

I have had good luck with ST6 and ST16.

 

The ST16 is also souped up in switzerland and renamed the 'swiss made' Claro CL-888...it used to be called the Claro Semag CL-888.

www.clarowatch.com/movements.html

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