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Submariner build questions


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5 hours ago, Mattjames84 said:

So I decided to ultimately go with the mbw 5513 as my base the case looks more gen, the lugs are drilled and look better then the cartel, has a gen t19 already.. gonna open it up when I get it and figure out why it's not running.. I'll post an update after I receive it. 

Thanks holo. I like the last one.

 Cool, what movement does it have in it out of curiosity?

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"...don't know if it swiss or Asian."


In the last two MBK watches I got a few years ago, one had a used 2836 etaclone and one had a swiss Eta 2836 that looked new.  I compared them by looking at the balance jewel settings...swiss Eta setting has three notches to r/r the spring and the etaclone has only one notch.

I have not owned many Asian etaclones, maybe 4 or 5 but every one had the one notch balance jewel settings.  Never saw a swiss Eta with a one notch setting and I have seen a lot of them.

Do not know if Asian etaclones have gone to three notch settings or not.

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LOL, that's a MBW/MBK-  'orig polex design' and the opaque white pearl in the bezel insert- maybe you could pop that pearl out and get a Yuki or Athaya pearl to replace it.

And age the dial and hands, or replace them with something with a little more yellow color.

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8 hours ago, Mattjames84 said:

Hey this is probably the only sub I'll ever be able to afford, so I'm gonna build it to what I want it to be, and smile..


The MBK/MBW's are a really good base.

- Bezel assembly is much better than modern Cartel models.

- Crown is spot on.

- Case specs and compatibility with gen parts is much better than Cartel.


Add a leather NATO (to cover up the POLEX DESIGN) e.g. Two-Stitch straps Amazing finish & leather quality (1,3 mm), and only aprox 60 USD.






A Chevron "Tudor Black Bay"-fabric strap from Crown and Buckle. 32 USD (!!!)

This one looks great with vintage tinted lume...





I have a Rubyswatches 5513 insert that will suit a vintage Sub like this  well (the left one)



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Iv been doing a bunch of research and this is one of the L342xxx old mbw cases which if I read correctly is pretty much as good as a phong case, so I guess I did pretty good.. now it's just a waiting game to replenish my PayPal with funds


Hey just to verify.. under the bezel is supposed to be a tension washer right?.. cause right now it doesn't have one and there is a bunch of play and the bezel spins way to easy. The bezel was off the watch when I got it

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"Hey just to verify...under the bezel is supposed to be a tension washer right?...cause right now it doesn't have one and there is a bunch of play and the bezel spins way to easy."


There should be a tension washer.  Many of the tension washers are not a very good fit and require sanding on the outside and\or inside diameter.

On the four MBK cases I have there is a gasket groove machined under the crystal retaining bezel but no gasket was installed when I got them.  The proper gasket for my four cases was the same ID as an oem case back gasket but not as thick in cross section.  I would not worry about it unless you need to r/r the crystal or inner bezel. 



O ring gaskets are sized by inside diameter and thickness.

Genuine rlx 55xx/1680 case back gaskets are 32.5mm X 1.0mm.

I looked in my gaskets and have both 32.5 X .8mm and 32.5 X .9mm gaskets.  You can also use 32.0mm gaskets if 32.5mm gaskets are not available, just stick the gasket in the groove with silicone grease to hold it while pressing the bezel down.

Twisted logic...each pack came with 5 gaskets and the .9mm pack still has four left while the .8mm pack has only one left so my guess is I used 32.5 X .8mm gaskets under the crystal retaining bezels.  It's been a while since I put one together.


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Oh man, this reminds me of the time I did a PCG 5513 Gilt build... with a gen cal.1520 in it, man thousands of dollars out the window, reworked the thing a half dozen times, adding more high quality parts, etc. Eventually nearly everything was genuine except the mid-case. It was a lot of fun though.

bridgeport milling rolex.jpg

1520 movement 1.jpg

5513 new lug holes.jpg

2015-05-15 008.JPG

2015-05-15 009.JPG

2017-03-27 003.JPG

2017-03-27 005.JPG

2015-12-24 003.JPG

2015-12-24 006.JPG

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That looks amazing.. I cant afford to take things that far, but want the highest quality rep stuff

I guess in the end I'm not super important to me is its %100 correct. As long as it's well built and serviceable. Cause the only person that's gonna notice it the most is me, and the few people that do notice it on my wrist won't even know it's a rep

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@Mattjames84  this is exactly why RWG exists, to share information about watches.  You can buy one bespoke or you can buy something else and mod the hell out of it, or you can put together a bunch of pieces and see what happens... in the end it's all about what YOU want to see on your wrist, and maybe we can help you with historical knowledge of what works and what doesn't.  You let us know what you find that works, and post some photos.  We all learn, we have a bunch of fun, and you wind up with the watch of your dreams.  Experts be damned, YOU wear what YOU like.


The MBW/MBK is a hell of a good starting point and it gives you the freedom to do whatever you want to do.  Parts will fit and it will open up avenues for you to make this what you want it to be.  5513?  1680?  Milgauss?  It's all up to you and the drill and grinder.  :tu:


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Where did you source a tension washer?  I have a red 1680 that never came with one, and my bezel has the same play as yours did.
If you're from Europe you can order it from cousins they have it too.

Gesendet von meinem BAH2-W19 mit Tapatalk

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Mine is the old Puretime 1680 case and it has a funky plastic retainer ring. Actually, way back when MD2020 (remember him?) worked on my watch, he may have opted not to put the plastic retainer back on. I'll have to check.

Does anyone know if these metal tension washers would even work with the Puretime case?

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

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So I took my watch to my watchmaker just to ask if he would ever work on it if I needed him to seeing it's a rep... *now mind you this guys been fixing and servicing Rolex for 30 years* he said he would... but the coolest thing that brought a smile to my face that he said was...  (are you sure this is a fake case??) Lol. I had to tell him to look between the lugs

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