Leaderboard

So you've got the QC images or your brand new best replica, like, ever, with that incabloc you always dreamed of, as swiss as cheese, but what about your timegrapher results? What dahell are those? Presets Beat Number Frequency, the vibration of a movement. The number of balance wheel swings per hour or how many times the watch ticks per hour. This is a preset, depends on the watch you order. 14,400 bph = 4 beats per second 18,000 bph = 5 beats per second 21,600 bph = 6 beats per second 28,800 bph = 8 beats per second etc Lift Angle The angle the balance passes through while interacting with the pallet fork. Important to be set correctly in order to calculate the Amplitude. This preset is per caliber specs. Most modern watches have a lift angle of 50 - 52 degrees. Generally lift angles range from 44 to 58 degrees. Some other settings are present, for instance Gen co-axials angle is 30 degrees. Results Rate How fast / slow the movement runs (in seconds per day) great : +/- 5 s/d acceptable : +/- 12 s/d If higher / lower? It is possible to adjust this yourself or ask your dealer to nudge it a bit. Amplitude The measure of the amount of rotation in the swing of the balance wheel, in either direction. Amplitude is higher when a watch is lying flat and usually falls when the watch is in a vertical position, due to increased friction. Amplitude can also fall as the watch winds down and the mainspring delivers less power. Amplitude is a good indicator of the movements health and if is too high or too low, or that changes too much in different positions, can indicate a problem with the movement. great : 270-310 acceptable : 250-270 If higher / lower? Ask for a different watch or have your watch serviced Beat Error The amount of time by which the duration of swing differs from one side to the other in the oscillation of a balance wheel. Generally speaking to get a beat error of zero, the roller jewel in the pallet fork must be perfectly centered. great : 0.0-0.5 ms acceptable : 0.6-1 ms If higher? Ask for a different watch or have your watch serviced. * Please note that if you are reading your QC from the dealer, you will generally receive only the results of the watch lying flat. All the above recommended measurements are from that position. The measurements in other positions may vary

You have stated little mate... You have 8 posts....the first 3 in the Breitling section saying you wanted to buy a rep to wear in your job that could be passed off.... you said you were looking at a seawolf or Avenger.. you also asked about movement reliability.. You started your next 5 posts here.... wanting to be told about any 50mm watches... You seem to have done nothing yourself in terms of research apart from looking at what you have on your wrist at the moment.... Yet you post a thread on here wanting us to do it all for you.... All I am looking to do is draw you out on what you are after ....in the hope you are not just one of those guys that comes on here looking for an easy route to getting a decent rep and then disappearing till you want another one... There is a great wealth of info on this site about big watches and there are many links to dealer sites.... what have you done to look at these yourself? Or is that for us to do for you? There is also a forum specifcally for Big watch collectors... you can google that if you want to look there...maybe you can get some ideas for yourself..

Hello dear Community. I just received my new BP DSSD. This is the latest release with better (bigger) hour markers, better ceramic bezel inlay and better overall finished bracelet (supposedly). Since I already own a Noob DSSD (v5, v6 or something) with a Sellita movement (400 USD ish), this time I picked up the cheapie, with the new breed A2813 High Beat movement. Got it at a bargain, with free freight for 218 USD. Since I have not found any review of this BP DSSD as of yet, I will try make one my self. This is not the review, only a first impression and ask for advice post. First impression - this looks way better than the older noob version! The overall finish is way better, especially the finish of the bracelet and clasp. The watch and the bracelet has a very nice sheen to it, almost like a GEN. And the pearl is near spot-on, as well as the bezel inlay markers! The sapphire appears to be near in alignment with the bezel inlay, and looks like it is much thicker than the one on the noob. It also looks to be more domed. The dial looks to be "deeper" down in the case, as if the overall rehaut is higher/deeper than the noob version. Imo it looks more realistic as a "3900m" diver. If this is true to the GEN, I do not know, but perhaps. Only side by side comparison can reveal. Also the dial appears bigger, because of the deeper rehaut and the larger hour markers. Secondly comes the but's.. it appears as a "too-good-to-be-true beautiful woman"! Almost like the old Alfa Romeos, if some of you have knowledge of such - very beautiful, but unreliable like hell! It seems the glidelock lever and clasp has an issue. The glidelock lever pops open with the slighest vibrations, like when you ride your offroad bicycle on a bumpy dirt road. It does not seem to keep in place. Also if you pull the bracelet slightly, you are able to pull the glidelock lever open. This is not very good, I reckon it is a production flaw, perhaps it is fixable (someone have any advice???) Also the caseback teeth and engraving is not very good. So, the watch is very nice, but the flaws are not visible at first sight, almost like in a Alfa Romeo or a beautiful woman you may have met at the wrong place:-) Also, the locking clasp itself is loose, almost like it is not firm enough to stay put in the spring bar it is attached. So it comes loose every time I open it. Major bracelet issues (clasp issues)! Third impression: the movement has major issues. The second day I wore it, it just stopped, almost like the PR had not gained during my first day of wearing. So I wound it and it started again. The third night, it seemed to have stopped, but the second hand was still running! Only the minute hand and hour hand had stopped, 13 minutes before midnight! What kind of **it movement is this? I have never before encountered a movement that still runs, but where the hour and minute hand has stopped! I am not crazy about sending it back, but I will experiment with the crown down, face up, or some other position during the night, to see if this occurs again. It runs fine now. On the other hand, it should be possible to fix or replace the glidelock and clasp assembly, the bracelet is otherwise very nice indeed.

Update on my watches guys..... Package came in today containing 2 of the 5 pieces Mike had with him for repairs, Breitling Sosf and SoA, I was expecting a Tudor Sub in there too but both pieces are working and look great

I did the Injera in a ceramic coated pan just like I do my Crepés @S...don't know how to say it but...from my experience the best recipe won't do it if you don't feel it...at least I never cook following a recipe straight away...I always cook with my eyes, my belly, my fingers...the recipe is just a source of inspiration But I'd love to share this source with you

What he said. The original 6538 has amazingly svelte curves and only Phong and MQ come close to matching it. They say the devil is in the details, and truer words were never spoken. Many people couldn't identify a real Big Crown case, but close matches are out there ... and you'll pay dearly for them. Get ready to drop a Grover on something most people would never recognize. Then you get to dials. Yes there are very nice $300 pieces, but soon you get caught up again in the devil's details and before you know it you're spending $1,500 for a dial, glad for the opportunity. Then you need a genuine 8mm Big Crown to match your expensive case and dial, another $1,000 out the window. And you can't bear to cut the feet off your $1,500 dial so you go looking for a gen 1030 movement, for another $1,000. What's this? You want a genuine Tropic-17 crystal for your build? Hah, good luck ... your money isn't making one appear from the ether of rare vintage parts. Hmmmm. You need a bezel upgrade you say? That'll be $1,000 please. Inserts are sold separately. As are the pearls. Before you know it you're $4,500 into a frankenwatch that 99% of the public cannot tell from a $500 Raffles build. And you're scared to use the thing because of the investment. Welcome to the madness.

More pics of what you can do with the Raffles case.

Either the auto-wind module was assembled incorrectly or its energy is not being transferred to the 1st wheel (winding barrel). You need to ease the auto-wind module down onto the movement to be sure the wheels mate properly. Otherwise, you will get what you got. 1st, remove the auto-wind module & manually wind the crown to be sure it is (now) operating correctly. If it is, carefully reinstall the auto-wind module. Once installed, gently revolve the rotor with a clean pencil eraser (or something similar) & make sure you see some movement at the barrel. If not, you will need to delve further to see whether the problem is within the module or the way it is mating onto the movement.

Tuesday... Need to wear this more often. Rare old school broad arrow, ST19 hand wind with nice Omega engraved bridge. Not produced anymore and don't see these around too much.

Very nicely done! Clear, concise and informative! One thing I should point out however. The Timegrapher results are helpful during the QC process, but they in no way negate the need for a proper servicing. The Timegrapher provides an averaging of its readings. It does not show an accurate representation of how well the watch is really running. This is why watch smiths mostly use a Vibrograph or other type of timing system. It shows how regular the beat really is over time and they usually time it in several positions as well. As an example, here you can see a watch timer showing very irregular beat activity: As you can see it is all over the place, however the average is showing that the watch is running at +7.6 sec/day (which isn't too bad). Lift angle is at 52 degrees and Balance Wheel Amplitude is at 285 degrees (which is also pretty good). I usually ignore the averaging and check the watch based on it's paper tape readout. That is a true reading of how well the watch is running. Here is another example of a watch that is running pretty well: This watch ended up timing at +1.6 sec/day in the end, but as you can see on the readout in the background it is running consistent and smooth