Leaderboard

When it comes to sourcing NOS vintage tropic superdomes for subs/sea dwellers, the toughest ones to find are the T19, T17, and the T39 (in that order). There are the occasional posts in VRF and on eBay that claim that the crystal for sale is genuine. With so many good aftermarket crystals, how can you tell its gen or not? Even the so-called "experts" are fooled routinely. Well, as I worked on a big crown build for lionsandtigers, I discovered something that might be helpful. As you may already know, the crystals are/were made in layers... Some of the cheap rep crystals are made in a single layer. Occasionally, you can see the concentric rings under the base of the sidewalls. But this can be difficult to see. But if you hold the crystal with the sunlight hitting it at an oblique angle, it's possible to see the layers as such: This in and of itself may not be a tell that it's genuine. If there are no rings, then I would avoid it for sure. But some reps, like the CWP T19, also show these rings. So what I discovered yesterday was that all gen superdomes distort around the outer areas that stretches outward. Looking at text while holding the lens can display the distortion I'm talking about like this (in this case a gen T17): But I tested this with a few rep superdomes I had lying around. The result was completely different. While the dome profile may be perfect, the distortion is way off on the edges. Text seems to curl around in a toroidal fashion creating two assymetric rings of text on either side of the crystal. Here's a T19 from Michael a Young at CWP, arguably the most popular aftermarket tropic superdome: Note how the text goes circular on either side; something that does not occur on gen superdomes. I tried this with a known gen T19 and T39 superdomes with similar results. While this may not definitive, the absence of the visible acrylic layers and/or presence of circular text distortion are probably signs that you just bought a fake crystal that's worth no more than $20.

By the end of 2014 I had sold all of my reps as I wanted to venture into Vintage Rolex. And that all started with a 5513 dial I purchased late January. Not sure, but I guess with all great builds, it either starts with dial or case. And this dial I immediately fell in love with . The 5513 spider from around 1984 which I bought right on the spot, no doubt. And then the search continued for all the right parts. Right after the dial I bought the 5513 service insert, which I overpaid for just a bit. But then again it was 100 % new. I sourced a really high quality SS bezel assembly from member over at RG. Then after looking day & night on fleebay I found this NOS Gen Swiss ETA lowbeat 2846. Getting the GEN Tudor hands was the hardest part. They never come up for sale 2nd hand so I was lucky to get them BNIB. The Athaya 702 tube and crown was easiest part, just send email to Athaya, sending pp funds and after 2 weeks in the mail for like $35, and they look really great. The case I decided to source a 5513 watch with Sead. Strip the parts and have the case modded to GEN spec. I found a member here who was willing to help me out. I sent over the parts but he could not find the time to do it. So after 4 months waiting I was back at square one. And then I was referred to great modder here by a good friend of mine. Case will be sent to him this week and then I hope by end of June I´ll be able to have all parts assembled. Here are the pics and will be back hopefully by end of June for pics of the modded case. So here´s the Parts List: 5513 cartel case Helenarou 5513 Caseback (flatter than cartel) GEN 5513 Spider Dial GEN Tudor Mercedes Hands for ETA (in 2nd picture) GEN 5513 Service Insert GEN Swiss ETA 2846 lowbeat Athaya 702 crown & tube T-19 service dome (aftermarket) SS bezel assembly (aftermarket) Cartel 93150 Bracelet (will probably get a Yuki to replace this one) WSO Gen spec 580 Ends Gen spec Springbars Well, ain´t that a great Spider Aftermarket SS bezel, will need polishing but it´s really great quality Not sure what to do, the lume on these is (just like the insert) really great green lume. Dial is tritium and has no lume left. So would it be possible to relume dial dots with vintage green lume? I personally have no problem with dial no lume and hands & pearl with lume. This would probably also happen on service where hands and insert would be replaced. HR Caseback has much flatter profile than the cartel one. Comes at a price but I´d like the watch to sit flat on the wrist.

Guys, been on the forum for some time now, mostly reading and discussing with quite some members here. Just wanted to let you guys know that I love this forum and its contributors - members. So that´s why I decided to upgrade to VIP to make small financial contribution. Great content, gentlemen like discussions and a great place for vintage lovers like myself. Sorry for not posting that much but I´m starting to (re)build a vintage rolex collection. Now in the process of getting me first vintage build ready, which is a 5513 (to be modded by Rolojack). Have a GMT 16710 which I just sourced and needs a GEN insert (also in the house), and just bought a great DJ from StoneP. So getting there....LOL If anyone has a nice 6263 he would like to part with (now or in near future)....please let me know

I think this piece is one of those builds that is constantly evolving for me. I've made a number of revisions to this watch over the years; this one is (in my mind) finally edging ever closer to being finalized (methinks)... I managed to score one of those new, Rolli/FGD 201/A dials from Ogladio, who was an absolute gent and a great pleasure to work with! He zipped these parts over the Atlantic to get them in my hands in very short order; having rec'd them this morning, I went to work quickly as I was quite excited and very anxious to have these goodies before my eyes! I managed to modify the hands and get everything installed while on a conference call for work Don't think I heard a word of what went on during the call, but I did manage to enjoy the process of doing a little watch work, which I have to admit I have not done in quite some time. Anyways... On to some pics... You'll have to excuse me on these as they are a mix of DSLR and cell phone images. And... There aren't too many images either, I'm afraid. I was already multitasking enough as it was! Gorgeous dial! It's got a nice, semi gloss/semi matte finish, though it appears more matte in this pic than it really is! Modded hands... Edges and center opening given a bit of a rub to expose some brass On to business... Side by side with my Steph_Dexter prototype dial; also a great dial in it's own right! Buttoned up... That 6... Thanks for looking! //ubi

Slightly more expensive but recently took delivery of my latest toy. "Dorrie" is currently undergoing some changes but track days will be on the menu for mid summer season. For those that are interested in such things currently she has had the following mods Koni FSD shock all around Eibach springs to drop 50mm on rear and 35 on the front Tarox F2000 front and rear GTT Induction system and soon to be receiving a boost to 180HP (220 BHP will be next year with larger front intercooler, 1446 Turbo, jets and ancillaries ) Runs well and the tiny terror is already surprising a few mercs and BMWs

Sunny Beach Sunday Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

x 22 why is your wrist empty ?

Hi and welcome, stay around, read and research a little bit more to get more information and all the answers will soon come by themselves. Count on spending more than double to triple of Your budget on a really nice one. To just try out how everything works maybe search for a recent release of the Explorer II with the cheap 21j movement. That could be a cheaper option for starters, if You like the design.

It's actually Sunday here but what the hell!

Op, why don't you spend some time researching on here. Use the search function and you will find a lot on information on submariners. You will find that $150 won't get you much.

After many years of tournament golf, my first Hole in one #8 shadow hills in Palm Springs. Sent from my droptop using telepathy [emoji466]️

I could possibly be interested in sending my case set to complete my A-series 009.

5513 today

It's ok dtm, I m having a local watchsmith locate one. Think we re good. Will find out Monday.

I had a similar issue a few years ago with a vintage Daytona I received. I had the proper tools, could not do it. I had sent it to The Zigmeister who could not do it! (yes, that The Zigmeister!) I was getting worried. I decided to stop at a local jeweler. I explained I was buying this watch but wanted to verify what was inside. He must have had Thor in the backroom because it took him 10 seconds to pop it open! I was very pleased when I saw a beautiful V72 under the hood!!!

I've been a member on the various fora since 08 and dealt with all levels of dealers, modders and members. Whilst Matt's love of replying to emails in separate new threads drives me nuts (lol) he is by far the most stand up vendor I've worked with. I include Bert (who fixed an issue with a franken piece he created for a former customer whom I bought from for FREE) and PBDad within that group of high esteem. The three of them are super solid and an absolute invaluable asset to our little community. The way I see it, there are three levels of rep collectors - the noobs who bounce in and out of the forum only after the "best sub" and end up leaving with a stock $300 rep never to be seen again, the lingerers who are satisfied with their stock rep collection, and then the "lean forward" more engaged crowd who explore builds and the various nuances of the rep world blurred into the gen world. I'd like to think I'm slowly moving into that third stage and am grateful for the friends I've made within these forums and their advice and support. J Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow, have you guys seen the latest instagram pics? What a watch, I'm in love it's official I want one

Just received my 7206 bracelet that I sent to CWR (Michael Young @ Classic Watch Repair) in HK. His little shop of elves do a great job. When I bought this bracelet a year ago, it had some reasonable stretch in it. Not ridiculous, but stretched nonetheless. Now it's practically NOS. If you have a vintage bracelet that you're thinking of sending him, depending on the stretch, the finished product can be about 1 link shorter. He can add a link for you at additional cost. I ve dealt with MY several times and his bracelet repair is excellent and well worth the $200. I will be sending him my 6636 next.

here some pix of my franken daytonas

\ No one loves modern daytona? Mine is also franken lol

My success on there was obviously too much for them to handle. 99% positive feedback, and one moaning mini about a budget build that didn't end up as he wanted resulted in the witch hunt. Telling them what they wanted to hear got me banned, crazy mindless, unprofessional fools, they have cut their noses off to spite themselves.

Then you better get one from Marini. Dont know your budget, they are little more expensive but waaay better than Noob and BP...