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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/09/2016 in all areas

  1. This is the one thing I dont like about our hobby. Since it's illegal to create 1:1 replicas technically.......there are zero standards and the guys who make any replica stuff make up ridiculous prices. I have a feeling when you see the amazing pictures on vintage watches.com for example.......... You are seeing their own personal stuff and not the stuff they will make or send to you. Why don't we all just contact the factory who makes the new cartel 5513 cases and help them fix the few problems it has and we will never need 800 dollar replica cases? Yes! Why the hell are we not 3d scanning a genuine case and just paying an online hub to CNC the case and mail to your door? 1200 phone case would be a 100 dollar perfect case.
    2 points
  2. Hahaha bro you mean it makes the dial pop. Making it pop out is something I'm sure you wouldn't want Message crafted while smacking a wayward chicken with a salmon.
    2 points
  3. Guys, I would be working with two other members to produce the correct spec datewheel for our ROO frankens and rep. Yes, we all know how ugly the JF ROO datewheels are so let's not bash it now. The goal is to supply accurate datewheels, literally scanned and copied from one removed from a gen I own, and then reproduced for the ETA2892 movement (franken) and A7750 movement (factory rep). The date font would be 1:1 and the magnified font size would be correct for both the LWO and A7750 variants. There would be no need for special cyclops to be used with these datewheels to achieve the correct magnification effect. The primary datewheel background color would be off white for the majority of the units and perhaps 10% in black with white numbers. The datewheel for the divers might also be produced. Please stay tuned. I will add pics as I go along. 25/4 Progress update 1: Scans of gen datewheel done and produced in different colors/backgrounds Update 2 May 2016: Transposing of the AP date fonts onto images of ETA datewheels and adjustments made for size, position and spacing completed. Vector image produced. Next update: To produce a prototype Omega datewheel on an ETA datewheel and do the necessary adjustment for size, spacing and positions
    1 point
  4. Still can't get a definitive answer to this one, even from Intime. So, today the back comes off again and the movement out to inspect. Will post the results when I know. My DSSD D-Blue is a V6s, but I assume it will be the same for the just released V7, as the list of additional mods to that don't seem to alter anything to do with the HE valve.
    1 point
  5. Just gonna leave this right here for the time being...
    1 point
  6. Awesome looking piece and the sizing suits you too, wears much bigger than I thought it would in comparison to the Airking, enjoy
    1 point
  7. There should be no need for a v1, v2, v3 requirement when laser scanning and CNC'ing a Rolex mid-case. I can't think of a simpler object that I have had made in my line of work. Bezel ring and caseback is a tiny bit more complex to absolutely nail ......but there's no excuse for not getting the mid-case and CGs right with a CNC set-up. There's an initial tooling cost/investment ....but for $1500 a pop, there is no excuse for anything less than true 1:1. I think Phong's 16610 is true 1:1 but his vintage stuff is probably a rep of a rep of a rep that he "hand-finishes" using pictures (not actual side by side gen)
    1 point
  8. "like Bobandshawn says with modern technology it shouldn't be difficult to scan a good gen case and turn out copies all day long." I agree and it sounds good but 'highoeyazmuhudee' gave it a shot and iirc it was not easy at all. The case makers always seem to get close but not exactly what you want (by accident or by design) forcing a V1, V2, V3 and on and on. New cartel, MBK, or Yuki is probably the route to go until someone starts cranking out exact cases for $199. DW had '1680' cases that would accept genuine movements and dials for $199 or so but they were not real close to oem on the outside and the crystal neck was just a hair too small. They were made to a fairly high standard but they were just out of spec.
    1 point
  9. the DW is totally fixable, TC DWs are the answer as noted earlier. tho i would be more concerned with saving up cash for the Ferrari you need to own in order to make this rep believable
    1 point
  10. Since this case is ruined, unless welded and re-drilled, see if you can get it dirt cheap and install fixed bars for a Milsub project...
    1 point
  11. Hi Gents, Once a wise man wrote that "it's all about the dial". And I have to say, the further I went learning about BC the stronger that stance became... at least to me. I had a long discussion with @Bart Cordell about his very good work on dial, case bevels, etc. So I asked him if he would take care of my Big. D's 6538 wich needed more work imo. And to make a long story short, this is the result: Specs : - 8mm V2 Athaya BC - Case reshaped and polished, beveled chamfers, rehault polished to make it deeper, - Bezel work: color and polished - hour and minute hands, sanded and relume to match the dial, Tiger-Concept Big Ball second hand. - True Gilt 2 liner super glossy dial (you have no idea what an improvment it is, as many had already stated, until you see/get one) - Sternkreuz Hw 306 dome crystal Bart was really dedicated to the modding process: he put a lot of time and efforts to get what I was precisely looking for. And that is really appreciable Cheers!
    1 point
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