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Previous iteration...

I offered him $150 depending on the movement (21j or clone) B

I hope nobody buys this $59k dodgy 5517 on eBay. Wrong dial, meters first rather than feet. Insert with too many minute markers and wrong font for the numerals. Hour hand looks suspect. Probably other things too but the poor photography makes it difficult to see. https://m.ebay.com/itm/272869594865 Needless to say reported.

Twin line usually is in reference to vintage Rolex where some dials had two lines of text in the lower half of the dial and some had four

For one thing a clone is not Swiss it is a clone/copy hence made in China not Swiss made and maybe take cover off post in our Rolex section the guys there can tell you what you have.

Thanks buddy! It's just a hobby for me, once in a while I may sell one of my builds. However, if the Missus catches me messin' with watches too often, this tends to happen...

Let's start with the rest. A premise: this is the way the main spring goes into the barrel, as reference (picture taken while disassembling it, quite dry as you can notice...): Once the plate has been rotated, you can install the "Complete barrel 001-992" but, before, install the click and its spring ("Click 060-551" and "Click spring 903-A15") with their screws and the "Breaklever for second hand 269-402" which is the one that hacks the watch when you put it in time-setting mode. Respectively 1, 2 and 3 in the pic below. Another suggestion is to have the click spring slightly lifted so that it doesn't push on the click. You will put it back later once the top plate "BARREL AND TRAIN WHEEL BRIDGE 701-J09" has been installed (there's a hole to fix the click in that), otherwise installing the top plate is a mess... Once done, you can put the "RATCHET WHEEL 059-802" on top of the barrel, the "CENTER WHEEL & PINION 012-A20" and finally the "Reversing wheel 141-251" (that I treated with Lubeta reversing wheels lubricant in advance): Then up it goes the "Center wheel bridge 702-201". Remember to put some Moebius HP1300 in the jewels that will support the other gears on top of the plate, as once the bridge has been installed those jewels in it will face the main plate and will not be reachable: And here we are with those "other gears on top of the plate" that I mentioned at the previous point: the "INTERMEDIATE REDUCTION WHEEL AND PINION(2) 088-252" and the "INTERMEDIATE REDUCTION WHEEL AND PINION(3) 088-253". Also the "Escape wheel and pinion 032-991" has been placed in its jewel: Finally you install the rest of the main train wheels: the "Third wheel and pinion 017-A01" (check that the lower pinion is correctly in its jewel!!!) and the "Fourth wheel and pinion 023-A21". Do NOT install the pallet fork and its bridge ("JEWELED PALLET FORK AND STAFF (9015-26A) 035-701" and "PALLET BRIDGE 708-091") now like in the picture. Leave it for later!: Now put all this on a side as we have to assembly all the parts composing the "BARREL AND TRAIN WHEEL BRIDGE 701-J09". Similar to the ETA 2892 parts of the autowinding system are hidden below of this bridge and require assemblage before to install the bridge on the rest of the movement. I will show a couple of pictures so that you can see how it is composed. The first is when it has been disassembled, the second with all its parts in place. The parts are the "TRAIN WHEEL GUARD(MANUAL- WINDING) 117-361" (117-360 in the pdf assembly schema) which keeps in position with 3 tiny screws the gears named "RATCHET SLIDING WHEEL(2) 087-A74", "RATCHET SLIDING WHEEL(1) 087-B08" (087-B03 in the pdf) and the "CROWN WHEEL 058-501" Plus the "TRAIN WHEEL GUARD(AUTOMATIC) 117-354" that keeps in place the gear named "INTERMEDIATE REDUCTION WHEEL AND PINION(4) 138-251" Now the trickiest part is to place the "BARREL AND TRAIN WHEEL BRIDGE 701-J09" because, as you can see from the previous picture, you will need to align 6 pinions plus the barrel arbor... Not exactly immediate... But anyway with patience you can do it. Do NOT push the plate, it will not go in place in that way and you'll damage the pinions! When it seems in place, put a pair of screws without tighten them and try to rotate the barrel with a finger or something: the wheels should rotate freely without too much pressure. Also now it's time to fix the click spring through the hole at 11 o'clock in the picture Now you can fit "JEWELED PALLET FORK AND STAFF (9015-26A) 035-701" and "PALLET BRIDGE 708-091" (not yet installed in the picture), other than the "INTERMEDIATE REDUCTION WHEEL AND PINION(1) 088-251" with its spring clip (take care: that spring clip tends to fly away landing in "that place where the watch movement bits disappear") You can now finally put the balance and its bridge and test the movement and see if it works fine, before to start the final part (time setting and date wheel mechanics). END OF SECOND PART

Absolutely fantastic that you are doing this Brother, thank you so much and good to see you back

I'd say, in the U.K. less than £3000 is probably good.

Pre-Daytona today

Here is your answer for which movement to use. The position of the stem in the case tube on the 2824 is a touch higher than the 2836. I know this because I had both movements side by side, and was using a gen case with both movements assembled and new stems in each, when I put the 2824 in th case the stem was dead center of the case tube, when I put the 2836 in the case the stem was towards the bottom of the case tube, could not use it in the gen case without raising the bottom of the rehaut. Hope this helps