krustybrand

You don't want it to 'seat' against the case, because that would defeat the seal within the crown. Countersinking the hole can bring the crown much closer.

Yes, the thread pitch on the tube DW uses is slightly coarser than the 7mm Rolex tube. It is also ever so slightly smaller diameter across the threads (.12mm). This means that the genuine Rolex tube will not work unless you run a tap through first. You will also notice that the DW tube is flat shouldered, while the new one is essentially tapered where it seats to the case. Several people have cracked new tubes trying to install them without first countersinking the case hole slightly. Before running the tap through, use a 3/16" drill bit to do the countersinking. You must use some lubricant on the bit, and you can actually hold the bit in your hand for better control, rahter than in a drill. Work slowly and check your progress frequently. It won't take long to do. You only need to countersink until the taper is the width of the seat on the crown. Make sure it's smooth (use a good bit). I believe The Zigmeister did a pictorial on the old RWG at some point. If you do this, you can torque the new tube correctly and firmly without worring about cracking the new tube.

If you want something truly special, see Jurgen on Timezone. He can fabricate the original curved-end double-ridge beauty for you and supply the buckle. It ain't cheap though.

The length of the minute hand, the color of the tip of the sweep hand are just some of those little details that tend to annoy if you know about them. It's not a huge difference, but is one of those things that scream 'rep' in any close inspection.

I've got one on order to make the orange dial/black bezel combo with genuine hands too. I'll show it off when the parts arrive.

There are many reasons one would want to move funds offshore. One of which could be an impending divorce, or even a future move overseas. An account in a tax haven will cost roughly $5k annually for administration. You may do anything you wish with the funds once they are in that account, i.e. investments. Your annual fee covers the account's administration and you usually set it up as an international company with the administrators as the board. A bonus is that even if your money is found by a court, usually there is a clause that prohibits the 'board' from acting on your instructions if those instructions were the result of duress, i.e. a court order. So you can comply with the court's order to repatriate the money but the bank wont do it. You are then free to join your money eventually. If you care to repatriate some of your money, you can become an employee of your own company and pay yourself. Just declare the income and you're fine. There are drawbacks in that the whole thing can be expensive but you will not pay tax on whatever investment income you gain while your money is offshore. The real trick is, of course, getting your money offshore in the first place. Suffice to say, where there is a will there is a way - one of which involves crooked stockbrokers, usually a 5% fee is involved. I won't give any furhter information, as it could be construed as counselling to commit tax evasion. What you want is tax avoidance really, not evasion. There is a difference.

43 and 3/4

If you decide to source new movments, I'll buy any of the broken ones from you. Seriously. PM me anytime.

The other issue with all of these is the alignment of the waves on the dial. The peak of the wave is aligned with the 12-6 axis of the dial. This is correct for the mid-size version, but not the full size. A genuine dial is the only fix.

You can thank my wife for that. I don't understand anything but a few dirty words in Cantonese. If your clients are planning to use something like that, they should contact a good Chinese calligrapher. Otherwise, what you reproduce for them will either have a meaning that will leave anyone able to read it scratching their heads, or will look like a 2-year old printed it. That's what my attempts at Chinese characters look like to my wife. Good calligraphers are usually old men who have studied many years.

'Tis the name of a highly respected historical figure. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Li_Hongzhang

Part of what I love about this forum is the support given to people who want to learn to do things themselves. After the first white-knuckled attempt, one realizes that movements are quite robust (when assembled) and it isn't difficult to do basic things. Minimal tools are needed. My first time was a DW Daytona, and the movement clamps and screws simply wouldn't cooperate. 3 times I decased the movement, and 3 times either the clamp or screw leapt from the tweezers. Panic ensued. I had no spares. Each and every time, I noticed that the movement had stopped. 3 times, I found the missing part jamming the balance wheel. How's that for "luck"? I carefully retrieved and put them back where they belonged. The IWC's movement is quite easy to decase. 2 clamps and associated screws, and out it drops. A new watercolor brush (sable, in my case - one I hadn't used yet) to clean the dial along with a blower, a lint-free eyeglass cloth with cleaning solution for the inside of the crystal, again with a puff of air, and it all goes back together easily. I strongly encourage everyone to give it a shot. What's the worst that can happen? A knackered rep. No great loss, and you can keep the movement for future learning.

Several people have had them come off. The buttons are screwed on to a post which is nothing more than a screw that comes from within the case. The screw head is what acts on the movement's chronograph actuators. The top and bottom pushers are different. The bottom one has a larger slotted head on its screw than the top. Usually one pusher is loose and the other is tight. I can't remember which one I simply loosened by finger. To secure properly, you should decase the movement and remove the pusher buttons using a screwdriver on the back side. Use blue Loctite on the thread (sparingly) and reassemble. Don't lose the little spring that lives behind the button when you take them apart.

Joe hasn't been sick for as long as some people seem to have been waiting.

The only time anyone has ever commented on one of my watches was upon entering work. The security guard X-raying all my metallic objects (keys, change, watch) commented on my "nice watch". He could only see the inner workings on the screen though. Literally nobody else has ever commented.

FWIW, my wife has one of these: http://www.worldofwatches.com/detail.asp?S...ecial=&watchsp= I have one in black as well. They are very sturdy and well-made.

It's the same phenomenon one finds in B&W photo printing. Matte paper will not give the deep blacks that glossy paper will give. The matte black of the dial does not seem to be a deep true black in bright light.

I communicate with and see Sam268 occasionally and have met Thomasng's younger brother (Admin himself unfortunately on jury duty at the time).

rep 45mm case = 20mm strap 42mm case = 20mm strap genuine 45mm case = 22mm strap 42mm case = 20mm strap

That's another highly recommended move on the rep. I put the insides from a gen clasp for a 2254.50 that I'm going to put on rubber into the PO metal band (before I had put it on rubber too), and it made a phenomenal difference.

That's the only drawback. They are sweet though.

Nope, the gen does not have these. The 45mm rep uses a 20mm strap. The gen 42mm uses a 20mm, and the gen 45 uses a 22mm. The genuine 20mm rubber PO strap that looks the same as the rep one on the 45mm rep fits the 42mm rep perfectly with no gaps and has no pins. When I get back from the weekend, I'll post a pic of my 4th gen black PO with a genuine PO rubber strap. The fit is perfect and it looks great.

Congratulations!

With respect to the 42mm PO, the cases are indeed different. The side of the case that is cut out to form the crown guards is different. The crown depth is far better on the ETA version and the brushed sides at the lugs are fatter on the Asian case.

Extortionate rates are one thing, out and out criminal extortion is another. This letter is exactly that.