krustybrand

http://www.ewatchshow.com/newest/watch/index.html Follow the NOS Breitling link on the left. Unfortunately the SS versions are like hens' teeth. I have heard of people having the 18k versions buffed out (plating removed) and nickel plated.

Damn, did you happen to see the Omega parts I've had on order since mid-April?

Luckyy has this one. No, a couple of hundred won't make much difference, it's the $1500 afterwards for gen parts, on top of the $2000 worth of Omega parts I have on order, as well as all the new tools I have to buy.... It never ends, but I did promise my wife I would lay off new watches for a while. That doesn't stop me from buying more DW movements, or getting the folded bracelet I have restored, or enjoying myself in a dozen other ways. She also wants to go back to University in January, so she thinks on top of the car that our budget is shot. I don't know how she thinks that, considering we have never had one....

A genuine movement would really be the icing on the cake. I have been considering this project for a while now, as I really, really like this watch (and have a soft spot for vintage in general). Unfortunately, I have promised Mrs. Krusty a new Mercedes in the next couple of weeks, so I may have to live vicariously on here for a bit. BTW, a genuine movement would run you $1kish. I know where to get one (reputable).

I can't get this one off my wrist!

It's a 1974 model 815. This particular model was available in SS as well as an 18k plated case (same dial). It's still possible to buy NOS 18k versions. The first pic is on a pickup microphone for my 1960 Greiner Chronografic timing machine. The strap I have on it is 1mm wider than the lugs, but a quick massage after I shot the pics has it looking like it belongs. The crystal is a beautiful domed plastic and the case is about 38mm across and 15mm or so thick. Movement is a Breitling Valjoux 7736. Breitling modification was primarily a longer spring, giving it a power reserve of around 52hours. The long spring gave it the designation "Long Plaing", translated directly it means "Long Spring", but the designation has been Anglicized and so you will see it designated as one of the "Long Playing" models, of which there were several.

One more - a bit better.

Sorry about the quality. I just thought I'd share a quick pic of my current favorite watch. I'll try to shoot some better ones later when I get home.

Best ask The Zigmeister about that. He uses the same supplier I do, and from what I have seen, true new ones (not surplused) have both wheels. You simply remove the one you don't need for some applications. To save work, a manufacturer may order from ETA with only a date wheel if that is his application. A lot of movements you find listed as new are, in fact, surplus and may lack the second wheel.

The Swiss movement will in fact drop right in.

I believe the silver version was a somewhat rare version. The white is in fact correct as well.

The bracelet on the DW 6263 is a dead giveaway. The original folded bracelt is much thinner, lighter and also narrower ay the clasp. Putting one on a DW is difficult, as the holes in the case are slightly farther away from the case than on a gen, but it can be made to work quite well with care. The weight of the whole watch drops dramatically with the gen bracelet. Quite surprising really. The general public has just enough knowledge about Rolex to think that all of them should be heavy, noy just those made of precious metal or the just plain big ones. The 6263 was by today's standards, a remarkably small watch.

Nice dial. He doesn't list those on his website, but I know they are available. I just put a Singer PN on mine from him. He will be restoring a lovely folded bracelet (gen, of course) over the next few weeks for me. A genuine Tropic 21 is next and then I'll have to snap some pics.

30 minutes?? Polywatch will do it in about 2. 5 if you have to use sandpaper first.

http://www.watchesplanet.com/cgi-bin/shop....ter+Chrono+300M

Interesting. One of mine used to stop at exactly 7:55. It turned ot that the running seconds hand was bent slightly upward, and interfered with the hour hand at exactly that time. It got caught and stopped the movement. While doing a dial swap and case tube upgrade, I addressed the hands. It took several tries to get the correct, minimal clearance to the dial on the little subdial hands, but now there is no interference and all the hands are much flatter with respect to the dial. I have another one that has a problem with the chrono seconds hand clearance to the minute hand at 20 past the hour. I'll address that one when I do a dial swap (to a Singer dial) and case tube/crown upgrade on it this weekend.

I was looking at a gen a few weeks ago, but I can get a new one online cheaper than this particular used one. It is stunning.

Have it in August and I might be able to make it too. My wife & I are planning a trip to my old stompin' grounds then.

I too would like to know this, as my wife is wanting the ladies version. I really need to know how small it can be adjusted.

That's exactly right. Nobody ever calls out a woman at a dinner party for wearing costume jewelery. If it looks good on her, and she wears it with confidence, that's all that matters.

There's always the remote possibility that you're wrong when you think someone is wearing a rep. Bad crystal and cyclops? Maybe the guy got a heart attack when the AD quoted him a repair cost for the generous gift a relative gave him. Maybe he then took it to a repair shop that did a cheaper non-standard repair. Maybe the previous owner did that. Who knows? I would never call anyone out, with the possible exception of someone who was behaving obnoxiously.

You just have to like government agencies. Good to hear everything worked out.

That is about right.

That's the one I was thinking of. Thanks. You were far quicker than I could type.

Essentially, countersinking is using a larger drill than the hole to create a tapered hole before the threads start. You will notice that the tube flares from the threads that go into the case to the larger threads that the crown screws onto. It is not a simple step up in size. Because of this taper on the tube, if you try to torque the new tube in, you will eventually get to the point where you are trying to compress the tapered section of the new tube against the abrupt beginning to the threaded hole in the case. The tube will thread in and you won't get a very positive feeling near the end. It feels as though you can turn it just a bit more. What then happens is you put a huge crushing force as you drive the tapered section into the start of the case hole and the tube cracks, as some have found. Using a larger drill than the hole creates an initial tapered section to the hole and allows the tube to seat with a more positive engagement of the sealing surface and eliminates the crushing force as you bottom the tube out. Careful, as you don't want to sink the tube into the case or eliminate a significant fraction of the threads in the case, you merely want to create a slight taper that approximates the taper on the sealing surface of the tube, hence the use of a bit around 3/16". Go easy, and use lubricant. If you have a good bit, you will not need to force anything.