JoeyB

Here is sieta's 2nd insert. Shipping to Singapore from the U.S. in about a week!

I noticed in using UV cement on acrylic crystals that when you try to remove the crystal part of it breaks where mounted because of the strength of the UV cement. So I bought a sapphire crystal from Clark's without the etched crown for my 16710 'retro'. I sanded down the gasket to the right height. Removed the insert. put the cement in the case crystal groove, and laid the crystal and gasket in. Then I used the insert to center it. That left a gap between the gasket and the wall of the case crystal groove. I filled that all around with UV cement. Centered again with the insert and carefully put it all in the direct sunlight for a good half hour. I screwed the crown in place, greased the caseback gasket and tightened it, and put it all in a bucket of water. Not a single tiny bubble. It is not waterproofed, nor would I pressure test it, but that is good enough for me. It is centered, the cyclops lines up perfectly, it looks much better and it's held for about a year now. The 16710 was my first favorite and all I had wanted until I found these forums. Now I wear the vintage GMTs more. But if I were starting new today, had one main watch for everyday, I would do this http://www.rwg.cc/to...07#entry1089607 I just might someday. That is in my opinion the best way to build a 16710.

No, it will not make a new shoulder. You can open a hand with a shoulder only a bit without losing the shoulder, and sometimes not at all.

My first 'repair' was a keyless works. From what I had read on the forums, it's a very common problem and with most movements. Usually, it happens when the release for the crown/stem is depressed too hard. The first time I paid a watchmaker $25 to reset it. I figured knowing my 'touch' I better learn how or it would get real expensive. It's not hard to do, just takes patience and one step at a time, nice and easy. If I can do it, anyone can!

I don't know of any differences between the Tudor ETA 2824-2 vs a Regular ETA 2824-2 that would relate to your problem. It sounds like a keyless works issue, and should be easily fixed. Sneed's tutorial is a good one. http://www.rwg.cc/topic/132392-eta-keyless-tutorial/page__p__987221__hl__sneed12__fromsearch__1#entry987221

The 16760 is a sapphire crystal, the 1655 an acrylic crystal. The 1655 case, along with most we use on 1675 and 6542 projects, needs to be thinned down to be close to gen, so it's thickness might be close to a 'fat lady' before modding it.

At 27.2mm opening but designed for a 29+mm dial, you'd have to modify it to take the gen dial. It won't sit square. I'd recommend the 1655 and mod it.

Get a hand broaching clamp like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/BROACHING-DEVICE-FOR-WATCH-HANDS-NEW-WATCH-PARTS-/370614458119?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item564a57d707 Then you can use the correct size bit to open the hole. The clamp comes in handy for other uses too.

I'd say freddy333 is the resident expert, his was the inspiration and he helped me build mine. Helping others is in his tradition, so I'm jus' payin' what I owe!

I used the Silix case, the same one freddy333 made his Phase 1 from. Someone said they are changed now, but I don't know that. One of these ROLS 163 - ROLS176 http://www.silix-prime.co/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=115_158_226&sort=20a&page=3 I am currently working on a case from Hong Kong that looks very much like the Rafflestime one, and I believe to be the same 'Tiger' case. It needs a few mods, thinning and beveling of the case and the bezel. But looks good to me. Here is the case with mods and engraving, but the bezel wasn't done yet. http://www.rwg.cc/to..._1#entry1094857 Rafflestime also has the 6mm Brevet '+' crown if you go that way. It needs some mods too, but well worth the time. http://www.rwg.cc/to...__fromsearch__1

Yep, Army, 38 years. I let my Top handle that and looked the other way. They always had them somewhere. But by 1971 we did have beer on ice for sale in the mess hall at dinner.

In 1970 I paid $1500 for my 1965 Corvette with two tops, side pipes 327/300hp, 4speed . Cigarettes at the PX were $1.50 a carton. Beers were 5¢. Added together they were $50 for going 70 mph over the limit... Professional Ladies were $10 , a good cheeseburger was 25¢. I made $78/month and was pretty well broke within a week.

I think there are. By-Tor went genuine with a 16710. I think the 'Retro' from Josh, which is the 16710 with the lug holes, should now qualify as 'vintage'. It's old enough, and that's the one that got me into all this. Those of us who are older remember the plastic crystal watches and how they looked after just a few months of everyday wear. The dome we now again love always seemed to hit something and scratch the snot out of it. I learned to use Brasso to take the scratches out. When I saw my first sapphire crystal, all flat as could be and the reflection so perfect, it won me over immediately. Now I've gone full circle! So, what is the 'perfect' GMT? To each of us it is something different. I think I'll build my perfect one next.

Is this what you're looking for? http://www.rwg.cc/topic/144657-making-a-gen-style-16710-case-out-of-a-16570-case-and-tw-bezel-assembly/page__hl__16710__fromsearch__1

I don't know. The 16710 has a 6mm crown.

The Queen gained that much weight?

No, but the Sub case should be the same.

Try Star Time. http://store.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1_07_1D_Rolex_Case I think the case is affordable.

Appreciate the offer, but I'm in Chicago. But I keep practicing!

Yep, did all that and more! freddy333 offered great help, but I still mess it up. I think he'd like to reach through the screen and just shake me! I have taken really nice macro shots of flowers and things, but the watch stuff just eludes me.

My file copy is at 5000dpi, so we'll try that way.

You've seen my pics. I haven't got a clue.

Let me know if this helps. It's for a 2135 movement, 16.5mm diameter.

Smith Supply in Los Angeles has genuine Swiss ETA 2846 NOS for $80. Be careful, they misused my credit card, though my card company got it all straightened out. The movement had a Bulova rotor, was new and pristine and runs beautifully. http://www.smithsupplyhouse.com/eta28swau6.html

Not with a regular inkjet printer. They don't print white at all. JMB has a printer that does print white. Maybe he can tell you more.